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Home > Blogs > Uncorked > Archives > 2006 > April
April 2006
Wine world ferments while French run squawking from fair flight
Lots going on to entertain, inform and update, starting off with a little somethin’ I wrote for Wine Sediments about a gutless decisiion by the organizers of the translatlantic tasting to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Great Paris Tasting of 1976. According to a Decanter.com story, some crybaby French winemakers don’t want to risk the embarrassment of losing to California wines in a tasting competition, so they’re insisting the tasting panel be informed of where each wine came from before it is evaluated. Can you say BAWK bawk bawk BAWK bawk bawk BAWK? I can — and I did. Click here to see the entry.
And, you’ve read about Robert Parker’s assessment of 2005 Bordeaux. Now catch British wine writer Jancis Robinson’s take in the Financial Times along with an accompanying piece entitled A question of extraction. Your kid didn’t need that college fund, did she?
And there’s more, on a variety of other wine topics: Sandra Silfven, my wine columnist colleague at the Detroit News, reports on the joys of the Concord grape and other vitis labrusca and advises us to don’t rush to judge. And another fellow newspaper columnist, Fred Tasker at the Miami Herald, explores Sauvignon Blanc, the “Cinderella” Grape. And over at MSNBC, Jon Bonne delves into the mysteries of Argentinian Malbec.
Fun reading, all.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Bidding adieu to April, glass of wine in hand
Is it just my imagination, or does this robust list of tastings, dinners and other activities reflect just how thriving the wine community is here in Dayton and southwest Ohio?
This list is compiled by a local wine listserve, and Uncorked passes it along with the permission of that listserve, with some occasional additions. That said, does anyone else want to sneak into Grapes of Ruth and disable the ALL-CAPS key on its computer keyboard? Or is it just me?
Okay, it’s just me.
A couple of items of note: In this morning’s DDN Life section, Ann Heller lets us know that Sips in Centerville has reopened, although with some changes to its wine pricing policies. And she writes in the same piece about the growing number of local restaurants offering midweek discounts on their wine lists.
Otherwise, for something a bit different, check out the DLM Pastry Show on May 4 at DLM’s Springboro store. Yes, it includes wine. And to find out what’s Gru-Vee about Gruner Veltliner, check out this morning’s post at Wine Sediments.
And to bathe in the glory that is the Miami Valley wine world, click on “continue reading” below … Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door
Friday, April 28, 2006 4-8 pm
2003 Paraiso Chardonnay, Monterey County, 2003 Cuvaison Pinot Noir Carneros, 2004 Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel, 2001 Mauro Molino Vigna Gancia Barolo, 2002 Canon La Gaffeliere St Emilion.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 1-6 pm
2005 Graves Sauvignon Blanc, 2001 Lava Cap Barbera, 2004 Elyse Howell Mountain Zinfandel, 2004 Tenner Ash Willamette Pinot Noir.
Arrow Wine & Spirits Far Hills/ Kettering
Saturday, April 29, 2006 11-4 pm
Six great wines including 2003 Culler, La Palette Napa Valley.
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd
Saturday, April 29, 2006 1am-5pm
2003 Evans & Tate Margaret River Semillon Chardonnay, 2005 Estancia Pinot Noir, 2002 Washington Hills Ranier Red, 2003 Screw Kappa Napa Merlot, 2001 Rocking Horse Zinfandel, 2001 Bighorn Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Pastry Show at Springboro.
Dorothy Lane Market “Springtime in Paris” Pastry Show, Thursday May 4, 2006 7-9 p.m. at DLM Springboro.
*Taste the newest spring creations!
*Classic pastries made from scratch by famous pastry chef Ghyslain and the DLM pastry team.
*Sample a selection of fine wines with the pastries.
$25.00 in advance at DLM Service Booths or $30.00 the day of the show.
DLM Oakwood
Friday, April 28, 2006 5-8pm
Jaboulet Parallel 45 Rose 2005, Aubert LChappelea Chapelle Chenin Blanc from Loire Valley 2004, Besson Givry 1stCru Burgundy 2003, Domaine Dragon (Provence) 2004, Snowdon the Lost Vineyard Cabernet 2002, Brown Bag!
Saturday, April 29, 2006 1-6pm
Casa Julia Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Merryvale Starmount Chardonnay 2004, Domaine Boussier Gigondas 2003, Chateau Angelique (second label of Monbousquet) 1999, Tenuta Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2003, Freemark Abbey Cabernet 2001, Bonus Bottle!
Beer: La Chouffer Houlbon Dobbele IPA Triple
DLM Washington Square
Thursday April 27, 2006 5-8p.m.
Special wine Tasting with Blair Taylor. Blair Taylor is an Italian importer and owner of world-renowned restaurant “Barolo” in Denver Colorado!
04’ Ca’del Sarto Pinot Grigio, 02’ Gagliardo Barbera d’Alba, 01’ Fattoria Rodano Chianti Classico, 01’ Terra Rossa Rossa di Montalcino, 00’ Fattoria Rodano Chianti Reserva Gagiardo “La Villa”Frizzante”.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 12-5pm Cinco di Mayo
Artavuri Rose 2005, Morande Chardonnay 2004, San Gredegoro 2003, Sofhenia Finca Malbec 2003, Mystery Wine!
1800 Tequila Margarita, Aromas de Turis Sangria, Beers: Pacifico, Mikearitas Hard Lemonade, Dos Equis Amber.
DLM Washington Square will not have a wine tasting next Thursday, May 4 due to the DLM Pastry Show at the Springboro store.
DLM Springboro
Friday, April 28, 2006 3-7pm
Lions Peak Chardonnay, Benziger Pinot Noir, Chateau Mouton Bordeaux, Banfi Cum Laude.
Saturday, April 29, 2006 12-5pm
Hitching Post Highliner, Selene Merlot, Chase Zinfandel, Darioush Cabernet, “Brown Bagger”
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook
Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm
ww.cuveewinebar.net
Wines beginning Friday, April 28, 2006
Mionetto Il Prosecco, Ortman 2005 Rose of Syrah, Esterlina 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Maloy-O’Neil 2004 Chardonnay, Terra Rosa 2001 Rosso di Montalcino, White Hawk 2001 Syrah, Peirano Estate 2004 The Other Red.
Beer: HOP SUN by Southern Tier Brewery, Stoudt’s Gold Munich Style Helles
Saturday Food: Asian Noodle Salad, Marinated Fiddlehead Ferns (if they arrive!)
Special Event at Cuvee: Tasting with Dirk Richter of Weingut Max Ferd. Richter. Thursday, May 4, 2006, 5-7 PM
Richter 2004 Estate Riesling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), Paul Anheuser 2004 Weisserburgunder trocken (Nahe), Rapenhof 2004 Riesling Classic (dry) (Rheinhessen), Richter 2003 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Richter 2004 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Kabinett, Richter 1989 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese, Richter 2003 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese.
The estate of MAX FERD.RICHTER has been in the ownership of the family for more than 300 years. Today this enterprise is one of the leading producers of top Riesling wines in the heart of the central Mosel area with total holdings of 40 acres and an annual production of about 10,500 cases. http://www.maxferdrichter.com
Market Wine Imports
2nd Street Public Market
Saturday 10-3 PM
Clydes White (chardonnay and sauvignon blanc), Fred’s Red (Zin and Shiraz), Aromas de Turis Sangria, Giovello Prosecco, And a sweet surprise!
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, May 6, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store
Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads
www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Friday for “A Round of Golf Wines�. We’ll present the highly-acclaimed wines of Greg Norman Estates, as well as Arnold Palmer’s California wines. 6:30 tee-off time. Reservations are recommended by calling 942-Wine.
On Saturday, some “Warm Weather Whites�. Four popular and refreshing white wines for your enjoyment. Tasting starts at 4:00 PM until 6:00 PM. No reservations needed. Saturday evening tasting will include four super-premium beers.
Trader Joe’s Tastings, Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8
Bogle Chardonnay (2004): California, Bogle “Phantom” Zin-Syrah blend (2003): California, Nerello del Bastardo 100% Nebbiolo (1999): Italy.
Grapes of Ruth
WINES AVAILABLE FOR TASTING STARTING FRIDAY, APRIL 28
ALSACE LUCIEN ALBRECHT PINOT BLANC, DON MIQUEL GASCON VIOGNIER, CLOS DU VAL CHARDONNAY, CLOS DU VAL MERLOT, CLOS DU VAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ARGYLE PINOT NOIR, ROSENBLUM PETIT SIRAH, ROSENBLUM MOURVEDRE, TALTARNI BRUT TACHE.
L’Auberge — Kettering
Tuesday, May 2, 2006 @ 7PM.
Julia Miller - Vintner Select; Special guest: David Schildknecht
Presenting wines from France. Jean Masson 2003 Apremont Tradionelle, Arlaud 2003 Bourgogne Roncevie, Mas de Gourgonnier 2003 Les Baux Provence, Roc de Anges 2003 Cotes du Roussillon Villages.
Tuesday, May 9, 2006 @ 7PM: Julia Miller - Vintner Select,
Special guest: Andrea Lederle of Handley Cellars;
Presenting wines from California
Tuesday, May 16, 2006 @ 7PM:
Julia Miller - Vintner Select;
Presenting wines from Spain
Tuesday, May 23, 2006 @ 7 PM: Julia Miller - Vintner Select; Special Guest: Gordon Hullar Owner of Vintner Select & Italian wine buyer. Gordon just returned from Vin Italy. Presenting wines from Italy
Tuesday, May 30, 2006 @ 7 PM:
Julia Miller - Vintner Select --
Special Guest: Brad Rey of Coriole.
Presenting wines from Austalia
Allisten Manor Restaurant
April - Wine Appreciation Classes & Wine Dinner.
Craig Kohli, Wine Appreciation. Allisten Manor Restaurant 1307 Garbry Road, Piqua, Ohio 45356
For reservations contact Allisten Manor, Phone: (937) 778-0848 or Email: info@allistenmanor.com
Tuesday, May 2, 6:30pm to 9:00pm Session #4: Allisten Manor Class Wine Dinner
May – “Wines of the World� Wine Dinner Friday, May 12, 2006
Madison’s Bistro Wine Dinner, June 21, 2006 7 pm. Featuring ROSENBLUM CELLARS 5531 Far Hills Ave Lamplighter Square
Between Rahn & Whipp Roads
937-435-7080 Make your reservations now!
Michael Anthony’s at the Inn Of Versailles & Ste Michelle Wine Estates Present: The Wonderful Wines of Washington State Friday April 28, 2006 7:00pm Reservations Required. 937-526-3020
Domaine St. Michelle “Luxe� 1999, Prosciutto Di Parma, grilled figs and baked stuffed figs
Chateau St. Michelle “Horse Heaven� Sauvignon Blanc 2003, Seared Sea Scallops & Shrimp shaved fennel, orange & red onion salad with a lime & blood orange vinaigrette
Chateau St. Michelle “Canoe Ridge� Chardonnay, Smoked Salmon and Caper Ravioli and fresh dill & crème sauce
Chateau St. Michelle Syrah, Tuscan Minestrone Ribollita
Columbia Crest “Reserve� Merlot, Garlic & Rosemary Roasted Leg of Spring Lamb, fresh broccoli sautéed in wine & garlic
Chateau St. Michelle Dr. Loosen “Eroica� Riesling, Seven Pound Mango Ice Cream Martini
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Husband and wife rosé producers trek from Provence to Ohio
Gilles Pons and Pascale Massenot had thriving careers in Paris — Gilles in computer graphics, his wife Pascale in marketing. But in the mid-1990s, after their two children were born, they decided on a radical change of lifestyle: they jettisoned their day jobs and headed south, to a small plot of land in sun-baked Provence, and launched their own winery, Chateau les Valentines.
In the U.S., that storyline is not all that rare, and California’s wine country in particular is filled with folks chasing the wine country lifestyle after careers in other fields. In France, it’s far less common. Vineyards and wineries are established and have often been held by the same family or ownership for decades, sometimes centuries. But Gilles and Pascale did it, they say, “for the children” — their 14 -year-old son and 13-year-old daughter.
This week, the husband-and-wife team tore themselves away from springtime in Provence long enough to …
… travel to the U.S. for a whirlwind tour of Ohio and Kentucky — a tour which yesterday (4-26-06) brought them to the Winds Wine Cellar in Yellow Springs for a Provence luncheon featuring their wines.
They both speak fluent English, and finish each other’s sentences as only a close married couple can. And yes indeed, they make VERY good wines — something I noted earlier this month in an entry entitled Telltale signs of spring: cherry blossoms and French rosés.
The 2005 rosé ($17.99) excelled again Wednesday with the Winds’ Provence-inspired dishes that included fresh-picked Ohio asparagus, tapenade and aioli, the garlicky homemade mayonnaise that brings out the best in Provence wines. The pale-pink wine is a blend of cinsault, grenache, syrah, mourvedre and tibouren.
But in this region where 85 percent of wines produced are rosés, les Valentines is producing a rich, robust red that is clearly a labor of love for Gilles and Pascale. When Gilles mentions that they would like to increase the production of their red wine, because, well … his wife completes the sentence for him: “We love it.”
The Les Valentines red from grenache, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, mourvedre and carignan. The 2002 vintage ($15.99) boasts sweet fruit and a whiff of Provencal herbs and is reaching its peak, while the 2004 ($17.99) is also rich and concentrated, cloaked a bit by a layer of fine-grained tannins. With a bit of airing, the wine shows well now, and will improve for three to five years.
A tiny bit of Provence in Ohio in April. It’s going to be a fine summer.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
PS over at Wine Sediments today, Indianapolis-based wine blogger Jeff Lefevere, author of GoodGrape, draws some parallels between Laverne & Shirley and our favorite “Sideways” protagonists, and wonders whether wine is ready for its prime-time moment. Click on the the “Wine Sediments” link earlier in this paragraph to have a look.
Chateau les Valentines 2005 Rosé
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The beginning of the end of three-tier wine pricing?
We’ve written about Ohio’s three-tier wine system and its minimum markups a time or two. Now comes word that a federal judge in Washington state has struck down that state’s three-tier wine-pricing system — a system very similar to Ohio’s minimum markups that double the price of a bottle of wine as it travels from producer to distributor to retailer to consumer.
The federal judge’s ruling, which may be appealed, has no immediate, direct impact on Ohio’s minimum markups. But the case, if it travels up the judicial chain to the U.S. Supreme Court, could someday affect every state in the U.S. And it certainly can’t be interpreted as good news for those wholesalers, retailers and others who have fought any changes in the mandated three-tier distribution sytem and its minimum price hikes.
The lawsuit was brought by mega-retailer Costco, which argued that Washington’s three-tier system hampers its ability to achieve bulk pricing deals with wine producers.
Could this be the beginning of the end of the three-tier system in Ohio? What would the consequences be for wine consumers?
Mark Fisher
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A Monday smattering
A smattering, indeed.
— The 30th Annual — Thirtieth! — Camp Emanuel charity wine tasting and auction is in the books — held Sunday at Jay’s Restaurant. Their 30th was my first, and I’ll be back. Good food, intriguing wines, fine company, spirited auction. All to benefit the only day and resident camp in southwest Ohio that provides programming for children with hearing and language impairments, hearing children and children with other disabilities. Consider attending this event next year if you haven’t been.
— Have you saved the date yet for the Fleurs de Fete? It’s Sunday, May 21. Not to be missed.
— Robert Parker’s take on the 2005 Bordeaux vintage is out in his publication, the Wine Advocate, and Decanter.com summarizes it this morning in a story entitled Parker on 2005: ‘compelling greatness.’ But as I write today on Wine Sediments, Parker hedges his bets. Here’s a sampling: “It sounds like Parker wants to strip off all his clothes and skinny-dip in the warm pond of superlatives — but ends up leaving his underwear on.”
— Finally, I sojourned down to Arrow’s Centerville store Saturday to taste the 2003 Pegeau Chateauneuf-du-Pape, primarily because that’s one of two red wines (the other is Ch. Meyney) that I own something resembling a vertical collection of in my wine cellar. The wine was young but wonderul, boasting deep color, copious fruit and a strong dose of tannins. Built for the long haul. And to haul a boatload of money out of the pockets of those who purchase it. The wine costs $70 a bottle. Ouch! Also Saturday, Cuvee Wine Bar & Cellar co-proprietor Chris Cavender whipped up a smoked-duck cassoulet to accompany a wine brought back from France by Uncorked readers Cynthia and Lillian (and to pair with the other red wines on Cuvee’s tasting bar on Saturday). The dish ($6) rocked, and I can’t think of a red wine that wouldn’t show better alongside this kind of food. This is what you’re missing if you don’t come out and taste ….
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Ohio rules the wine blogging pool!
A wine columnist for a metropolitan newspaper in Ohio launches a wine blog? Where have we seen that storyline before?
A warm welcome to Tricia Colianne, who writes the “Cellar Dweller” column for the Akron Beacon Journal and who parlayed that gig into her own wine blog entitled Vin Vini Vino.
This addition to the ever-expanding wine blogging pool prompted my Wine Sediments colleague Tom Wark to declare Ohio “The Hotbed for Wine Blogging”.
Who can argue? Especially today, when over at Wine Sediments, our Cincinnati wine-blogging friend Jens Rosenkrantz of Cincinnati Wine Warehouse (some of you met Jens at Jay’s on a memorable Friday night a few months back) writes about — what else? — wine blogging in an entry entitled, “Why Blog? Wine Not?”
Lest we forget the northwest corner of the state, Ohio also boasts Untangled Vine written by Toledo Free Press writer Adam Mahler.
What IS it about the Buckeye state?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Springtime, and the wine is flowing
First of all, if you’re looking for the posting about Wine with Takeout mentioned in this morning’s newspaper, just place your cursor over, and then click on, the underlined words that follow: Wine with Takeout, and you’ll be taken right to it. Thanks for the excellent comments, and keep ‘em coming!
But now we move on: a cornucopia of wine offerings this weekend to please our collective palates. Where else can you enjoy samples of Edmunds St. John, Chalone, Vinum, Rosenblum, even the Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Pegau and a Chateau Lynch-Bages, all within the easy radius that is the Miami Valley? I mean, we don’t even have to gete on a subway!
Note also the DLM Springboro special event Thursday (4-27) involving Hal Barnett of Barnett Vineyards. And the L’Auberge tasting of Cinnabar wines on Tuesdsay (4-25).
Mmmm. Flowering trees in full bloom, and a weekend of wine tastings. Aren’t we lucky?
Click on “continue reading” to view the wine tastings and events, which come to us courtesy of a local wine listserve, for which we are thankful. Cheers!
Jay’s Kitchen Door
Friday, April 21, 2006 4-8 pm
NV Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial, 2004 Chalone Pinot Noir, 2002 Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet, 2001 Seghesio Barolo, 2002 Chateau Lynch-Bages.
Saturday, April 22, 2006 1-6 pm
NV Tattinger Brut La Francaise, Robert Pecota Syrah, Dry Creek Zin 2002, 2000 Paras Vineyard Cabernet.
Arrow – Kettering
Saturday, April 22, 2006 11-4 pm
2004 Cartlidge & Browne Chardonnay, 2005 Morgues du Gres Rose, 2002 Monte Volpe Primo Rosso, 2002 Villa Antinori Toscana, 2004 Equis (Spanish Red), 2002 Chateau Le Pin Beausoleil.
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd
Saturday, April 22, 2006 1am-5pm
2005 Bonanno Sauvignon Blanc, 2004 Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay, 2003 The Lackey Shiraz, 2004 Hitching Post Generation Red, 2004 Clos de los Siete Argentine Red, 2003 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood
Friday, April 21, 2006 5-8pm
La Roche Pouilly Fuisse 2004, Pinot Evil Vin de Puys, Martin Weyrich Etrusco Cabernet 2003, Petalos 2004 Bierzo, Peter Howland Shiraz Langley Vineyard 2002, Brown Bag!
Saturday, April 22, 2006 1-6pm
Gerard Bouley Rose, Sancerre 2004, Pouilly Fuisse Recolte 2004, Chateau La Grande Clotte Lessac St Emilion 2003, AtoZ Claret 2003, Sasseti Brunello 2000, Veraison Cabernet Stagecoach Vineyard 2001, Bonus Bottle!
Beer: Hof Brau Original Stone Imperial Russian Stout
DLM Washington Square
Saturday, April 22, 2006 12-5pm - Earth Day Tasting
‘04 Macon-Villages,
‘04 Luna Pinot Grigio,
‘01 Sky Zinfandel,
‘03 Edmunds St John Rocks and Gravel,
‘03 Vinum Cellars Red Dirt Red,
‘03 Earthquake Petite Sirah,
Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro
Friday, April 21, 2006 3-7pm
Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc, Argyle Spirithouse Pinot Noir, Rodney Strong Zinfandel, Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet
Saturday, April 22, 2006 12-5pm
04 Amon-ra, 03 d’Arenberg ” The Dead Arm” Shiraz, 02 Sequum Cabernet, 04 Macon-Pierreclos.
Special Wine Tasting Springboro DLM
April 27, 2006 6:30-9pm.
Barnett Tasting - Hal Barnett will be at Springboro DLM. Limited to 35 people, $35.00 per ticket- Call Springboro Wine Dept. at (937) 748-6800.
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook
Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm
Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm
www.cuveewinebar.net
Wines beginning Friday, April 21, 2006: Sharpe Hill Vineyard Ballet of Angels, Ribeauville Reserve Riesling, Graziano Rose of Zinfandel, Domaine des Vieilles Pierres 2003 Macon Vergisson, Duck Pond Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Fred’s RED, Joel Gott 2204 Cabernet Sauvignon, Domaine du Colombier 1999 Hermitage.
Beer: Draft BeerHOP SUN by Southern Tier Brewery
Saturday Food: Brie with Fig Compote, Smoked Duck Cassoulet
Market Wine Imports
2nd Street Public Market
Saturday 10-3 PM
2004 Hidden Mesa Chardonnay, 2002 Richard Hamilton Gumprs’ Shiraz, 2004 St Francis Red
B. R. Scotese
Wednesday, April 26, 2006 4:30 pm
The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store
Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com.
The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069, 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads
www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Friday, April 21st - Wine Tasting featuring Warm Weather Wines, 6:30 pm
Saturday, April 22nd ~ Australian Wines, 4-6 pm
Trader Joe’s Tastings, Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8
La Ferme Julien Blanc (2005): Cotes du Luberon, La Ferme Julien Rose (2005): Cotes du Ventoux, La Ferme Julien Rouge (2004): Cotes du Ventoux
Grapes of Ruth
WINES AVAILABLE FOR TASTING STARTING FRIDAY, APRIL 28
ALSACE LUCIEN ALBRECHT PINOT BLANC, DON MIQUEL GASCON VIOGNIER, CLOS DU VAL CHARDONNAY, CLOS DU VAL MERLOT, CLOS DU VAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ARGYLE PINOT NOIR, ROSENBLUM PETIT SIRAH, ROSENBLUM MOURVEDRE, TALTARNI BRUT TACHE
The annual fundraising wine lunch for Camp Emanuel will be held on Sunday, April 23, from 1:00 - 4:00 PM at Jay’s Restaurant. Camp Emanuel is a local ACA-accredited summer camp for hearing, language, and developmental disabled children (as well as typical children), and has operated day- and resident-camps in the local area for 35 consecutive years. This fundraiser provides about half of the camp’s annual operating funds.
Tickets to the event cost $50 each (or two for $90), part of which is tax deductible. An excellent buffet lunch will be created by Chef Justin White, accompanied by a wide assortment of wines (all included in the ticket price). A highlight of the event is perhaps the finest silent wine auction in the area. Last year almost 200 bottles of fine wine were on hand, donated by local wine enthusiasts from their personal cellars. We hope to offer at least as many this year! If you are interested in attending or making a wine or cash donation to the camp (or simply want more information about the camp), please contact Board President Doug Lehrer at doug.lehrer@kmcnetwork.org or Board Secretary, George Punter, at punt46@netzero.net.
L’Auberge – In Vino Veritas For the Wine-O in you.
Tuesday, April 25, 2006 7 pm
Julia Miller and special guest Suzanne Frontz, the General Manager of Cinnabar Winery will be conducting a wine tasting of Cinnabar wines.
2004 Cinnabar Chardonnay, 2003 Cinnabar Merlot, 2003 Cinnabar Mercury Riesling, 2002 Cinnabar Cabernet Sauvignon.
Allisten Manor Restaurant 1307 Garbry Road, Piqua, Ohio 45356 April - Wine Appreciation Classes & Wine Dinner. Craig Kohli, Wine Appreciation. For reservations contact Allisten Manor, Phone: (937) 778-0848 or Email: info@allistenmanor.com
Tuesday, April 25, 6:30pm to 8:30pm Session #3: Wine & Food -“Wino Dining�
Tuesday, May 2, 6:30pm to 9:00pm Session #4: Allisten Manor Class Wine Dinner
May – “Wines of the World� Wine Dinner Friday, May 12, 2006
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Which wine with takeout?
Andrea Robinson is a master sommelier. I am not.
She has authored several wine books. I have not.
She hosts a new wine-pairing and cooking show on the Fine Living Network. I do not.
Will any of that stop me from critiquing her recommendations of what wines you should drink with take-out and delivery dishes?
It will not.
Robinson — formerly Andrea Immer Robinson — teamed up with the Napa Valley-based Wine Market Council to share her wine pairings for America’s favorite takeout foods. The winemakers and wine marketers apparently are wringing their hands with concern that while wine consumption is growing in the U.S., only about 40 percent of wine drinkers say they’re likely to enjoy wine at home with takeout. Ye gads — an untapped market!
Let’s take a look at … (Please click on “continue reading” …)
• Pizza: Andrea earns an “A� for her recommendation of Chianti and other wines based on the sangiovese grape. You just can’t beat the classic tomato sauce-Chianti combo. And her vote for sauvignon blanc for white-wine lovers is intriguing.
• Chinese: I like gewurtztraminer, and Andrea is not alone in touting it with Chinese stir-fry — but the performance of this match-up usually doesn’t live up to the hype. Try a dry rose from France, Spain or California instead, or perhaps a sparkling rose.
• Fried chicken: You need something to cut through the grease, and Andrea recommends a Spanish Cava or American sparkling wine for the job. Never tried it, but I suspect Andrea’s on to something. On the red side, I’d prefer a tasty pinor noir more than the Gamay or Beaujolais that the sommelier touts, but that’s a quibble.
• Thai: Andrea suggests white zinfandel. What’s she been smoking? The sweetness of the coconut milk, fire of the chiles and tang of the lime would neuter just about any white zin I’ve tasted. Better to go with a chenin blanc-based demi-sec wine from France’s Loire Valley (Vouvray, Montluis) or a dry chenin from California for their brisk candied-lime fruit and steely, refreshing acidity.
• Burgers: Can’t argue with shiraz for red-wine lovers, but a barrel-fermented chardonnay? Hmmm. If she had to throw white zin in somewhere, it should’ve been here.
• Mexican: She says Fume Blanc or dry rose. I say beer. Sometimes you just have to wave the white flag and acknowledge defeat. Mexican food and wine just don’t blend. Well, maybe if it was an Argentinian malbec …. nah, beer.
• Italian:Andrea suggests California Cabernet — which I’m sure brings a smile to the faces of some of her Wine Market Council winemakers in California. But why mess with the tried-and-true perfection of Italian food with Italian wines: nebbiolo-based wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco or Langhe, or delicious Barbera, or the aforementioned sangiovese-based Chianti?
• Barbecue: “Ready for this?” Andrea asks. “Riesling is the best with barbecue.” Gotta admit, I haven’t tried it, and it sounds appealing. Then she and I find happy and harmonious common ground when she proclaims, “For red-wine fans, the big and bold zinfandel grape is the perfect barbecue buddy.” I’m not a big fan of zinfandel — until a slab of BBQ ribs finds its way to my place. It’s here that zins strut their stuff.
Overall, I think this Andrea took a tough assignment and completed it admirably. What do you think?
And what’s your favorite takeout food-wine pairing?
Meanwhile, over at Wine Sediments today, I direct your attention to a Portugese wine producer who is virtually accused of treason by his countrymen for announcing he will switch from corks to caps. The Cork Wars rage on …
Thanks for reading, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Readers teach blog author a thing or two
Fun, provocative, enlightening — I had hoped those words could be used to describe MY blog writings. But noooooo. Instead, they are best directed to YOU, the readers, who have been providing fascinating feedback and stimulating content of late.
The entry I wrote late last week on Wine Sediments entitled The Total Fantasy of Wine Ratings” generated quite a response, both on that site and on Uncorked, from winemakers and experts who had plenty to say. One of the comments didn’t see print on either site, because it came in the form of an email to me, but the author — David Schildknecht, who reviews wines and writes for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and works for Mason, OH-based wine importer and distributor Vintner Select — gave me permission to share, while he’s criss-crossing France tasting wines.
Here’s what David had to say: (please click on “continue reading”)
I suspect that you are incorrect and that at least GOOD quality is compatible with mega-quantities. Nor is there any reason to suppose a typical appellation cannot support high volume consistent in microclimate, clones, vinification etc. That this is POSSIBLE doesn’t of course mean that it is always the case.
However , the basic question asked (“How does a reader … “) IS quite valid. In my own offerings qua Vintner Select and in my reviews for the Wine Advocate etc., I always note any instances where (to my knowledge - and I am pretty diligent in digging up this sort of information) a wine exists in more than one lot or bottling. with the sorts of wines I import and write about that the lots are generally unique and small. In my coverage of inexpensive 2004 German Rieslings for The Wine Advocate - to several of which I awarded high scores - comments on the existence of (if not additional notes on) alternate bottlings were generally included. But for instance a reader in Germany informed me that there were two bottlings of the basic dry Gunderloch Riesling and I had not gotten that information out of them through my own negligence, not out of their desire to conceal anything.
There are many instances certainly when the tasting note in a journal is in fact for just one given lot of wine with otherwise identical name. And it would be best for journalists to note this.
There was also this from winemaker Mark McKenna on the Wine Sediments site:
I come from the perspective of a winemaker who proudly produces, blends, and sells big (and some small) blends of wine. I can tell you that, while there are occasionally exceptions, even with our biggest blends (50,000 + cases) the wine in the last bottle is exactly the same wine in the first bottle. (On a side note you would never send the first bottle off a bottling run to a critic). It is not hard to do and not any more manipulative than blending two barrels together to create a blend. You just need bigger tanks and better pumps.
Reader Trish offered this about the Wine Spectator-90-point-Vitiano:
I think what we have here is a classic case of grade inflation. This is a great wine for what it is, for its price point. It’s not a capital-letters “GREAT WINE,” though, by any means. It’s not a stellar single-vineyard, single-plot expression or even, truly, of regional terroir. But it’s not trying to be, either. So is this a best buy? Yes. Is it a 90 point to be held up with the likes of, oh, I dunno…? No. On the other hand, if a 90-point rating on that wine gets one cabernet cowboy to put down his Opus One long enough to try a bottle of something under $20, I’ll give the Spectator a pass on this one.
And reader Jack gave me this “Duh, dude:”
What, you mean it’s worthless to rate massive bottlings of industrial wine?! But this flies in the face of general practice! Next you’ll be telling me the earth isn’t really flat!
Of course, when it comes to comments, Uncorked received the mother of all comments, length-wise, on yesterday’s post entitled Finally, a wine RETAILER unleashed a rant, from a reader who identified himself as “Supplier Representative.” Among the pertinent parts:
There is a place on every wine list and in every store for wines and labels that people understand and feel comfortable with. I especailly like those who revile KJ Vintners Chardonnay. Sure it’s got some residual sugar and sure, it would never be mistaken for a flinty Chablis, BUT everyone and I mean everyone in this business, owes a world of debt to the wine that got people willing to focus broad-based on varietal wine and willing to pay a premium for a glass of wine (or a bottle of wine for that matter at retail).
And by the way, over at Wine Sediments today, my colleague Tom Wark of Fermentation reveals that we missed the whole point of the movie “Sideways” — We should be drinking merlot!
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Finally, a wine RETAILER unleashes a rant…
I have this nasty habit of looking at issues from a wine consumer’s point of view. That’s because I AM one.
Wine shop owners occasionally accuse me of not representing their point of view, a charge to which I plead gloriously and enthusiastically guilty. But for one day — and one day only — we’ll even the scales just a bit, courtesy of our friends at WineGeeks.com.
E. S. “Sunny” Brown is the wine editor of WineGeeks.com, and he runs the Spagio Cellars wine shop in Grandview in suburban Columbus. He also happens to be a frequent, passionate and articulate commenter on Uncorked.
Sunny has written a Wine Industry Gripe Session: Message from a Retailer for his site, and it’s very much worth your while.
Yes, Sunny has a few things to say about consumers who are obsessed with wine ratings or who feel compelled try to negotiate wine prices in a price-controlled state. But he saves special venom for …
…some of those who produce and supply retailers with their wines to sell, to wit:
Stop wasting my time. I understand that in sales the product needs to be thrown into the market, but I will pull my hair out the next time the national sales manager from Megacorp. Winery stops by just to say “hi,� yet he wants me to taste all 35 of his insipid and watery wonks and is willing to bury me under a mountain of propaganda and pictures of the cute little old folks that still tend the grapes out in the fields. Meanwhile, what he does not tell me is that the wines are produced in such vast amounts that Megacorp. sources fruit from all over that country and that the little old folks have no affect on the wine whatsoever. He also mistakenly leaves out the fact that the cute little old folks used to own the winery before Megacorp.’s parent company Gigantocorp. Brands undercut their market with their own mass-produced plonk forcing the cute little old folks to sell their life’s work. Now Gigantocorp. has spent so much money in building a giganto facility that inflation has gone through the roof and the cute little old folks are forced to work the fields just to survive. Needless to say I have issues with this, or in general. You call it.
I think you get the flavor. Hey, I told you it was a rant!
So, retailers, enjoy your day in the spotlight, and by all means, feel free to add to Sunny’s peeves. And consumers: do these peeves cause your eyes to well with sympathetic tears?
Thanks, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Pining for the good ole’ days of 55-point wines
A guest columnist’s entry on Wine Sediments today on how our most influential wine publications have created a “Lake Wobegon” effect by refusing to publish scores of wines that earn below 70 points or so sent me scrambling into my archives — in this case, old copies of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate from decades past.
(I KNEW I’d have a use for those dusty old things someday …)
Used to be that the first thing I’d do when my copy of the Wine Advocate arrived in the mail was to flip through the numerical ratings in search of two categories of wines: those 95 and up — and those in the 50s and 60s. THOSE were the descriptions most worth reading!
Sigh …I MISS those days.
The days when a 55-point 1989 Alsatian Pinot Gris Reserve from Bott-Geyl exhibited a “nose of shoe polish and varnish,” or the 52-point (Fifty-Two!) 1988 Riesling Selection de Grains Nobles from Preiss-Henny …
… “had a vegetal, moth-ball-like fragrance, and tart, lean, almost nasty flavors.” Or a trio of German wines from Claus Odernheimer that all scored in the 60s and of which Parker writes, “whether or not they will ever do anything other than take the enamel off your teeth remains to be seen.”
These days, you won’t find such writeups in The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast. I suppose the editors can claim a lack of space, or a myriad of other reasons why they choose to “protect” our delicate eyes and ears from the scathing reviews of yesteryear.
But as my colleague Jeff Lefevere of GoodGrape points out, doesn’t that practice deprive us of a full picture of the wines being reviewed? Don’t readers who believe in the credibility of the positive scores and react accordingly also want to know which wines the reviewers rejected as deeply flawed?
And deep down, isn’t there anyone else besides me who rather enjoyed reading a beauituflly written review that absolutelyl filleted a big-name wine?
I miss the good ole’ days …
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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How to make a Good Friday into a great Friday
Go to a Friday wine-tasting, of course. Take a look at what’s happening this Easter weekend at local wine establishments, and check out other upcoming events. Note at the bottom of this list that l’Auberge will be holding some wine events — the first of what may become a recurring tasting is scheduled for April 25th with a representative of Cinnabar Winery. Note also the annual fundraising wine lunch for Camp Emanuel to be held on Sunday, April 23, from 1:00 - 4:00 PM at Jay’s Restaurant.
A brief note of apology: Usually, I am able to go through this listing and “pretty it up” a bit, putting the wine shop names in bold print and trying to space things out so they make sense. Today, the demands of my “day job” at the DDN make that impossible, so it this looks a bit raw, that’s because, well, it IS. Still, a big thank you to the folks who compile this information for a local wine listserve, from which we copy and bring it to you …
Cheers, and Happy Easter! Click on “continue reading” to access the tastings information ….
Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door
Friday, April 14, 2006 4-8 pm 2003 Steltzner Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Domaine La Bouissiere Vacqueyras La Ponche 2001 D’Alessandro Il Bosco 2003 Chateau Batailley 2002 Caymus Napa Cabernet
Saturday, April 15, 2006 1-6 pm Red and White Burgundies!!!
Arrow – Kettering
Saturday, April 15, 2006 11-4 pm 2004 Con Class 2004 Auratus 2003 Palazzino ‘Girasole’ 2004 Tamar Ridge Piniot Noir, Tasmania 2003 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2004 Altos de la Hoya (Spanish Red)
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood Friday, April 14, 2006 5-8pm Artazura 2005 Rose Ch St. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet 2003 Peter Howland Pine Lodge Vineyard Shiraz 2003 Morgan Reserve Syrah 2002 Luce 1997 Brown Bag!
Saturday, April 15, 2006 1-6pm Covey Run Reisling 2004 It’s OK Rose Vinum 2005 Cakebread Chardonnay 2004 Seghesio Home Ranch Zinfandel 2004 Trinchero Meritage 2002 Castello Banfi Brunello 1999 Bonus Bottle!
DLM Washington Square
Thursday, April 12, 2006 5-8 pm
‘05 Chateau Les Valentines Cotes de Provence Rose
‘04 Guffens Macon Chavigne
‘04 Jean Luc DuBois Ladoix “La Combe” Bourgogne
‘04 Tobin James Zinfandel
‘01 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon
‘98 Palazzo Rosso Barbaresco
Mystery Wine!
Saturday, April 15, 2006 12-5pm 2004 holp kiln 1000 flowers 2004 rabbit ridge no oak paso robles chardonnay 2005 pink fiddle pinot noir rose 2003 rock rabbit syrah 2002 rabbit ridge paso robles cabernet Mystery Wine! Beer taste: Allagash white ale Summit Mai Bock
Dorothy Lane Springboro
Friday, April 14, 2006 3-7pm 00 Arrowood Reserve Chardonnay 01 Drouhin Pinot Noir 00 Northstar Merlot 02 Snowden Cabernet
Saturday, April 15, 2006 12-5pm 99 Josmeyer Le Kottabe Riesling 02 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 00 Fiddlehead Pinot Noir 02 Twomey Merlot
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook
Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines beginning Friday, April 14,2006 Casteller CAVA Non Vintage Cuvee Tableau 2004 Tavel Rose Cycles Gladiator 2005 Pinot Grigio BASA 2005 Rueda Blanca ARIES 2004 Pinot Noir by Robert Sinskey Vineyards Cycles Gladiator 2004 Syrah Lion’s Peak 2001 Mourvedre Draft Beer Barrel House Hocking Hills Hefeweizen Satruday Food Roasted Veggie Spread on Toasted Garlic Pitas
Market Wine Imports
2nd Street Public Market Saturday 10-3 PM 2004 Woop Woop Shiraz 2000 Hastwell & Lightfoot Cab Sauv 2002 Hawker’s Gate Chardonnay 2000 Pietra Santa Sasso Rosso
B. R. Scotese
Wednesday, April 19, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays! Martin Ray Chardonnay Angeline Russian River Pinot Noir Angeline Sonoma Merlot Angeline Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Ray Napa Merlot Martin Ray Napa Cabernet Sauvignon And a Mystery jug wine
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store
Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd
Saturday, April 15, 2006 1am-5pm 2004 Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Wente Chardonnay 2005 Estancia Pinot Noir Washington Hills Shiraz 2001 Beringer Napa Valley Merlot 2003 Dark Horse Cabernet Sauvignon
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069.
513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, April 14th: Cutting Edge Selections, 6:30 pm, reservations recommended.
Saturday, April 15th: Casual Wine Tasting, Cabs From Around the World, 4-6 pm,.
Trader Joe’s
No wine tasting Sunday, close at 5 Tuesday 6-8 San Andres Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, and Cabernet: all 2005, Chile.
Coldwater Café Wine Classes Call the Cafe at 937-667-0007 or register online through www.localwineevents.com
Grapes of Ruth
WINES AVAILABLE FOR TASTING STARTING FRIDAY, APRIL 28 ALSACE LUCIEN ALBRECHT PINOT BLANC DON MIQUEL GASCON VIOGNIER CLOS DU VAL CHARDONNAY CLOS DU VAL MERLOT CLOS DU VAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON ARGYLE PINOT NOIR ROSENBLUM PETIT SIRAH ROSENBLUM MOURVEDRE TALTARNI BRUT TACHE
Camp Emanuel fundraiser
The annual fundraising wine lunch for Camp Emanuel will be held on Sunday, April 23, from 1:00 - 4:00 PM at Jay’s Restaurant. Camp Emanuel is a local ACA-accredited summer camp for hearing, language, and developmental disabled children (as well as typical children), and has operated day- and resident-camps in the local area for 35 consecutive years. This fundraiser provides about half of the camp’s annual operating funds.
Tickets to the event cost $50 each (or two for $90), part of which is tax deductible. An excellent buffet lunch will be created by Chef Justin White, accompanied by a wide assortment of wines (all included in the ticket price). A highlight of the event is perhaps the finest silent wine auction in the area. Last year almost 200 bottles of fine wine were on hand, donated by local wine enthusiasts from their personal cellars. We hope to offer at least as many this year! If you are interested in attending or making a wine or cash donation to the camp (or simply want more information about the camp), please contact Board President Doug Lehrer at doug.lehrer@kmcnetwork.org or Board Secretary, George Punter, at punt46@netzero.net.
L’Auberge – In Vino Veritas For the Wine-O in you. Tuesday, April 25, 2006 7 pm Julia Miller and special guest Suzanne Frontz, the General Manager of Cinnabar Winery will be conducting a wine tasting of Cinnebar wines. 2004 Cinnabar Chardonnay 2003 Cinnabar Merlot 2003 Cinnabar Mercury Rising 2002 Cinnabar Cabernet Sauvignon
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Pinot envy, riesling lust and a ratings rant
We highlight the best today, starting with the Charlotte Observer’s ode to pinot noir, and move deftly to the New York Times’ eloquent tribute to German riesling. And last but certainly not least, over on Wine Sediments, some nut case named Mark Fisher questions the whole basis behind wine ratings of mass-produced wines, and wonders: “What guarantee does a reader have that a wine he or she buys halfway across the country is in any way similar to the identically labeled bottle someone else just drank and raved about? And if it IS identical, do we even want to know how that happened?”
It’s a fun little read, if I do say — I mean, if he does say so himself.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Telltale signs of spring: Cherry blossoms, French roses and wine tastings
There’s so much going on this week that our friends at the local wine listserve sent out a special email alert mid-week letting folks know what’s happening, which I’m happy to repeat here — with a few added embellishments, of course.
Our friends at Decanter.com report that U.S. wine drinkers are seeing beyond the domestic market, even if the survey results they cite have my marketing B.S. antennae quivering just a bit. Let’s just hope that Americans are discovering the joys of pink wine — as in rose-style wines (just put in the accent mark over the “e” yourselves, because my software won’t allow me to do so).
As I noted in the list of last week’s tastings, the first 2005 vintage French pinks are gracing our local shelves, and wow, so far, so VERY good. Especially the 2005 Les Valentines Cotes de Provence ($18), which is one of the finest, most delicious and exquisitely balanced roses I’ve ever tasted. It’s got it all — pale salmon color, zesty berry fruit, refreshing acidity, a finish that begs the next sip — and it’s so good it improves with a little warmth and airing in the glass. And consider this: According to The Winds most recent newsletter for April, two folks from the winery, Pascalle Massenot and Gilles Pons of Chateau Les Valentines, will be at the Winds in Yellow Springs for a luncheon on Wednesday, April 26, at 11:30 a.m. Call 937-767-9441 for details.
A second 2005 Provence rose, Chateau de Roquefort Corail ($12), also has made the scene. It’s a different animal than the Les Valentines, drier and a bit sharp when it warms in the glass, but served ice cold later in the summer with just about anything off the grill, well … this ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, and this ain’t no white zinfandel.
Meanwhile, over at Wine Sediments today, I write about the re-creation of the notorious 1976 Paris tasting in which California wines (gasp!) bested their French counterparts on the scorecards of the French judges. And I wonder whether this time, in the “Great Do-Over” — is the fix in?
FINALLY, here are some mid-week wine events, courtesy of our local wine listserve. And don’t forget — think pink! (Click on “continue reading” to view the list of tastings and events)
Jay’s Kitchen Door
Jay’s Italian Dinner, Thursday, April 13, 2006 7 pm
Roasted Garlic and Spinach Gnocchi (made in house) on Micro Arugula with shaved Pecorino-Romano Cheese and White Truffle Oil.
Sweetbreads with Wild Mushrooms and Pancetta wrapped Baby Artichokes in a Veal Demi-glace Red Wine reduction.
Braised Veal Farci with Lobster, Risotto Milanese and Baby Vegetables, with a Lobster-Caramel Sauce
Pistachio-Phyllo cup with Chocolate Crème Sauce Sabayon
Accompanying Wines: 2001 Ateo Rosso, 2001 M.Marego Barolo, 2000 Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino, NV Banfi Rosa Regale.
Friday, April 14, 2006 4-8 pm
2003 Stelzner Sauvignon Blanc, 2003 Domaine La Bouissiere Vacqueyras La Ponche, 2001 D’Alessandro Il Bosco, 2003 Chateau Batailley, 2002 Caymus Napa Cabernet.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Washington Square
Thursday, April 6, 2006 5-8 pm
‘05 Chateau Les Valentines Cotes de Provence Rose,
‘04 Guffens Macon Chavigne,
‘04 Jean Luc DuBois Ladoix “La Combe” Bourgogne,
‘04 Tobin James Zinfandel,
‘01 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon,
‘98 Palazzo Rosso Barbaresco,
Mystery Wine!
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook
www.cuveewinebar.net
Japanese Sushi/Sake Dinner, Thursday, April 13, 2006 7 pm
B. R. Scotese
Wednesday, April 12, 2006 4:30 pm
The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
Wines of Fife Vineyard: 2002 Redhead Red, 2002 Redhead Vineyard Zinfandel, 2001 Whaler Vineyard Zinfandel, 2002 Uplands Zinfandel, 2002 Old Vine Zin, 2001 Redhead Vineyard Petite Sirah.
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store
Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com.
The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Grapes of Ruth
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 12, 6-8PM
WINE SEMINAR FEATURING AUSTRALIAN WINES
LEARN ABOUT THE DIFFERENT VITICULTURAL AREAS OF AUSTRALIA AND DIFFERENT VARIETALS THAT ARE PRODUCED IN THESE REGIONS. CALL FOR RESERVATIONS (937 748-3807).
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Wine Blogging Wednesday #20: Verget du Sud Marsanne
When Jean-Marie Guffens, the driving force behind the excellent Burgundy negociant firm Verget, came to Dayton, Ohio in 2000 for a five-cities-in-five-days marketing tour, he showed up for a tasting at The Winds Wine Cellar a bit disheveled and bleary-eyed from a late wine dinner in Cincinnati the night before. So he stoked up on coffee and quickly hit his irreverent, irascible and iconoclastic verbal stride:. Here’s a sampling:
— On his frequent clashes with French government officials who insist that only certain grape varietals be allowed in wines from certain regions: “It’s only forbidden when you get caught … I always prefer to be wrong my way than right someone else’s way.”
— Comparing the quality of the current vintage with past vintages: “Here’s my definition of a good vintage: It’s in stock and for sale.”
— Upon hearing that the Wine Spectator had declared one of his 1997 white Burgundies one of the best of the vintage: “I went down into the cellars and told some of my assistants, ‘We must be doing something wrong.’ ‘
At the time, Guffens was just getting started with his recently purchased property in the south of France, bottling new wines under Verget du Sud and Chateau des Tourettes labels.
The overwhelming majority of what Verget produces is chardonnay, so he’s an unlikely candidate to provide a wine for Wine Blogging Wednesday #20 with its theme of “Off-the-Beaten-Path Whites.” (I’m posting a day early because … well … because I can.)
But the 2004 Verget du Sud Marsanne ($12.99 Ohio retail) met every criteria — and then some. Marsanne is a Rhone grape gaining in popularity in California and elsewhere in France. Verget’s bottling has a solid core of ripe-citrus fruit and stony minerality, with cleansing acidity to balance. Moreso than other white wines, this Marsanne benefits from serving at cool cellar temperature, at which it shows a rich viscosity; serving it refrigerator-cold mutes its aromas and flavors and throws too much of a spotlight on its bright acids. It’s one incredible bargain at $13.
This month’s wine-blogging Wednesday roundup will be posted on Wine for Newbies, perhaps as early as this weekend. Stop by and see what bloggers from throughout the world snagged from their local shelves, tasted and evaluated for the rest of us in the blogosphere!
Thanks for reading, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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For better or worse, Coturri’s wines stand out from the crowd
Tony Coturri brought his distinctive — very distinctive — wines to Dayton Saturday. If you had a chance to taste with him at Arrow’s Centerville store Saturday afternoon, it’s unlikely — no, it’s impossible — that you walked away with a neutral opinion. (Please click on “Continue Reading”)
Coturri, third-generation winemaker and owner of Coturri Winery in Glen Ellen, CA, produces reds that seem designed to provoke a reaction. They are deeply extracted, teeth-staining wines made from ultra-ripe, organically grown grapes fermented with natural yeasts and no added sulfites.
It’s too bad Ravenswood snatched up the “No Wimpy Wines” motto, because it rightfully belongs to Coturri.
The workhorses in the Coturri lineup are the zinfandels, many of them made in a late-harvest dessert style reminiscent of the old Sky zins. In his written descriptions of his 2002 Sonoma Valley Zin ($16.99) and 2004 Chauvet Vineyards Zin ($29.99), Coturri uses the word “sweet” and notes that the Chauvet is “great as an after-dinner dessert drink,” and both do have a noticeable raisened sweetness to them. Yet his 2003 Estate Vineyard Sonoma Mountain Zin ($36.99) is drier, with a noticeable beam of bright acidity.
The sweeter versions of Coturri’s zins could be a godsend for retailers who are asked every other day or so whether they offer sweet red wines, and who usually are stuck recommending lesser-quality wines. But there is little or no indication I found on Coturri’s labels of what style of wine is in the bottle. Maybe a residual sugar reading or a “late-harvest” or “dessert” designation should be considered. If I purchase a Chauvet Vineyards Zin off the shelf thinking it will taste like other dry red zins, I am in for a big surprise when I pull the cork.
Coturri also makes a 2004 Maclise Vineyards Merlot ($24.99) that is intensely ripe and a bit sweet, and an intriguing 2004 Testa Vineyards Carignane from Mendocino ($17.99) that has deep fruit and bright acidity that would pair well with garlicky tomato-based sauces.
Coturri’s wines will be paired with a Wild Game dinner at 7 p.m. Tuesday night (4-11-06) at the Burgundy Room in Columbus. Call 617-798-9463 for details or to make reservations.
Lovers of wimpy wines need not apply.
P.S. Over at Wine Sediments, the focus over the weekend has been on wine-and-food pairing — and it contains a decidedly international flavor.
Thanks for reading, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Wine enthusiasts here and elsewhere blast Ohio’s laws
The folks at Mark Squires” Bulletin Board on erobertparker.com got ahold of a couple of things I’ve written in recent days regarding Ohio’s wine shipping and pricing laws, and the responses from the bulletin board’s readers — some from Ohio, some not — make for a fascinating read. Check out the posting entitled “Ohio government = Stupid” and “Ohio direct wine shipping laws. Ohio sure is making a name for itself nationally, isn’t it?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Tony Coturri to pour his wines — but that’s just the first sip
Some highlights of this weekend’s tastings: Tony Coturri, third-generation winemaker and owner of Coturri Winery in Glen Ellen, CA, will pour several of his wines from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday at Arrow’s Centerville store. Coturri’s wines are always distinctive and full-flavored, and my strong hunch is that it’ll be worth your while to drop by. Note also that the first ‘05 rosés from France are hitting our shores and the tasting bars — a sure and welcome sign of spring!
To view the full list of tastings, dinners and other events, which comes to us courtesy of a local wine listsserve, click on “continue reading.” Thanks! Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door
Friday, April 7, 2006 4-8 pm
NV Pol Roger Cuvee Champagne, 2003 Domaine La Bouissiere Vacqueyras, 2003 D’Alessandro Cortona Syrah, 2003 Chappellet Mount Cuvee Cabernet, 2003 Chateau La Croix St. George Pomerol.
Saturday, April 8, 2006 1-6 pm
Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc, 2001 Etude Pinot, 2003 Vieux Telegraphe Chatenauneuf du Pape, 2000 Mount Veeder Cabernet. 2002 Whitehall Lane Cabernet
Arrow Wine & Spirits -– Kettering
Saturday, April 8, 2006 11-4 pm
2004 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc, 2004 Insiglio, 2003 Wellington Roussanne, 2003 Altos de Luzon, 2003 Errazuriz Cab, MAX Reserve, 2004 Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Special Surprise Wine!
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd
Saturday, April 8, 2006 11am-5pm
Tony Coturri, owner/winemaker for the Coturri Vineyards. will be at Arrow Saturday from 1-5 pm for a tasting of Tony’s wines. Stop by to ask questions about wine and winemaking!
2004 Coturri Albarello Field Blend, 2004 Coturri Maclise Vineyard Merlot, 2004 Coturri Carignane Testa Vineyard, 2002 Coturri Sonoma Zinfandel, 2003 Coturri Zinfandel Estate Vineyard, 2004 Coturri Zinfandel Chauvet Vineyard.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood
Friday, April 7, 2006 5-8pm
Lanzerac Chardonnay 2003 South Africa, Kilikanoon “The Lackey” Shiraz 2004, Domaine Chapelle St. Joseph Vacqueyras 2003, Chateau St. Georges Bordeaux, Mount Veeder Reserve Cabernet 1997, Brown Bag!
Saturday, April 8, 2006 1-6pm
Fossili Gavi 2004, Consentino Chardonnay 2004, Consentino CigarZin 2004, Norton Privada Malbec Blend 2003, Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run 2003, Opus One 2001, Bonus Bottle!
Beers: Goose Island Matilda, Monchshof Kellerbrau.
DLM Washington Square
Thursday, April 6, 2006 5-8 pm
‘05 Boulay Sancerre Rose,
‘04 Joel Gott Napa Sauvignon Blanc,
‘03 Nocolas Potel Bourgogne,
‘04 Kilikanoon “The Lackey” Shiraz,
‘02 Sandrone Barbera d’Alba,
‘02 Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Right Bank,
Mystery Wine!
Saturday, April 8, 2006 12-5pm
“APRIL IN PARIS”:
‘04 Jaboulet Parallel 45 Rose,
‘04 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Blanc,
‘03 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rouge,
‘03 Domaine Chapelle St-Joseph Vacqueyras,
‘02 Blason d’Issan Margaux,
‘00 Chateau d’Arche Haut-Medoc,
Mystery Wine!
DLM Springboro
Friday, April 7, 2006 3-7pm
2003 Landskroon Morio Muscat, 2004 Michel Dutour Pouilly-Fuisse, 2004 Two Hands Angel Share Shiraz, 2001 Landskoon Port.
Saturday, April 8, 2006 12-5pm
2004 Artazuri Rose, 2004 Verget Macon-Village, 2003 Paringa Shiraz, 2003 Angus The Bull Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook, Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm, www.cuveewinebar.net
Wines beginning April 7, 2006
Rancho Sisquoc 2004 Riesling, Chateau Les Valentines Cotes de Provence 2005 Rose, Martin & Weyrich 2005 Pinot Grigio, Yarden 2002 Chardonnay (Kosher for Passover), Omrah 2004 Pinot Noir by Plantagenet, Convivio 2003 Cabernet by Field Stone, Field Stone 2002 Merlot, Cyrus by Alexander Valley Vineyards.
Beer: DRAGON’S MILK Oak-Aged Strong Ale
Upcoming Events: Japanese Sake Dinner, Thursday, April 13
B. R. Scotese
Wednesday, April 12, 2006 4:30 pm —The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
Wines of Fife Vineyard: 2002 Redhead Red, 2002 Redhead Vineyard Zinfandel, 2001 Whaler Vineyard Zinfandel, 2002 Uplands Zinfandel, 2002 Old Vine Zin, 2001 Redhead Vineyard Petite Sirah.
Market Wine Imports, 2nd Street Public Market
Saturday 10-3 PM
2000 Enotria Dolcetto, 2004 Prospero Tempest, 2002 Meridian Gewurztraminer.
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store
Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads. www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Friday, April 7th: Wine Tasting, Wines of Portugal & Austria, 6:30 pm, reservations recommended. Cliff Roahrig of Bowling Green Beverage presents wines from Portugal and Austria.
Saturday, April 8th: Casual Wine Tasting, Spanish Favorites of Robert Parker, 4-6 pm, no reservations needed.
Trader Joe’s
Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8
Schmitt Sohne (2004) Piesporter-Michelsburg, Germany; Recanati Kosher Merlot (2003): Galilee, Israel; Conte de Bregonza (2002): DOC Amarone, Italy - in standard and 3-liter bottles.
Coldwater Café
Wine Classes Tuesday, April 11th 6:30pm-8:00pm “California’s Secrets” All classes are $25 per person. Call the Cafe at 937-667-0007 or register online through www.localwineevents.com
The Dayton chapter of the Black Data Processing Associates (BDPA) is sponsoring a Wine Tasting & Live Jazz Social April 8, 2006. Dayton, Ohio — The Dayton chapter of the Black Data Processing Associates (BDPA) is sponsoring a Wine Tasting & Live Jazz Social at the Dayton Racquet Club, Kettering Tower, Saturday, April 8, 2006. Enjoy an evening with gourmet food matched with featured wines coupled with Live Jazz provided by Deron Bell & Jazz 4 U
BPDA is a tax exempt, non-profit organization. Proceeds from this fundraiser support college scholarships awarded from the Student Information Technology Education and Scholarship (SITES) Program. The SITES program’s primary focus is to expose multi-cultural youth in the Dayton Metropolitan area to Information Technology. The top students selected for the national team will receive a $500 college scholarship and an all-expense-paid trip to participate in the National High School Competition at the - 28th Annual BDPA National Conference & Career Fair, August 2-5, 2006 – Hilton LAX – Los Angeles, CA.
Tickets are $30 and are available from Ms. Karla Scott, 937-344-9097, email: karla.scott@ingneium.net or go online http://www.bdpadayton.org/ http://www.bdpadayton.org/ and click on the request tickets link.
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Kiss THIS!
First, thanks to all of you who read and commented on Tuesday’s post entitled “Decoding Your Date: Your Choice of Drink Speaks Volumes”. A robust response and some highly entertaining comments!
Over on “Wine Sediments” today, I peek behind the numbers of the Wine Institute’s 2005 wine-sales figure. Fun stuff. Sayonara, white zin — hello pinot!
Now, we’ve written about celebrity wine labels before, from Madonna to Italian porn stars. A blogging colleague even found out what kind of wine they’re serving at the Bada-Bing (scroll down to the Monday, April 3 post). And now comes — well — KISS THIS.
I have but two questions for y’all.
(1) Is this a sign of the coming apocalypse?
(2) Would Gene Simmons’ tongue reach to the bottom of a Riedel Bordeaux glass?
Oh, and for you KISS fans out there: Please do note that Ohio is one of the state recently added to the list of states that Celebrity Cellars will gladly ship to ….
And speaking of shipping, a quick follow-up on the entry entitled “Wine Consumers, Watch Your Wallets”: Mark Rickel, a spokesman for Gov. Bob Taft, confirms that the governor and state regulators are considering proposing that out-of-state wineries be required to mark up their prices of wines sold and shipped to Ohioans by the state’s minimum markup, which effectively doubles the price of a bottle of wine between the producer and the consumer. The idea, Rickel said, is to “level the playing field,” since Ohio wineries are already subject to the minimum-markup requirement.
The question I have — and which Rickel said he cannot answer — is this: how can the state of Ohio dictate to a California winery what price it will charge one of its customers — and to potentially force the winery to charge a different price to Ohioans than it charges to customers in 49 other states? I understand the state has the power to regulate wholesalers and retailers and wineries in Ohio, but is it constitutional to dicate such business practices to out-of-state entities? Rickel said the issues are still being studied, and no such legislation has yet been proposed. Stay tuned.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Decoding your date: choice of drink speaks volumes
The choice of drink can reveal a lot about someone’s personality – or at least, that’s what the authors of America Online’s “Happy Hour Drinks Decoderâ€? would have us believe.
See if you agree.
A woman who orders a glass of wine in a singles bar “is traditional, in a 2.5 kids, house in the ‘burbs, two-car garage kind of way. But she’s sophisticated about it; she’ll engage you in a conversation about politics, world peace and current events, all the while dreaming of the day she … (please click on “continue reading”)
… can be a stay-at-home soccer mom in charge of coordinating weekly car pools.â€?
Hmmm.
With men, well, AOL suggests it’s a little harder to translate a male holding a glass of wine (we must be more … complex): “The test here is what type of wine he orders. Does he prefer the commercial success of a pinot, or does he break from the hype … ? The more specific he is about his wine preference, the more right on he will be as a date. Ask him about his wine choice and you’ll be able to read him like a book. Just wait for the final chapter!â€?
My pages are turning’, churnin’, yearnin’….
So what about beer, then?
Well, a guy who orders a beer “likes it simple — direct and to the point. He isn’t going to play games with you unless he drinks one of those designer label beers. You can expect lots of sports analogies and dinners at TGI Fridays. But fear not, he’ll always be there for you … . He is a keeper provided he isn’t wearing a wife-beater when you first meet him.â€?
So a guy who orders a “designer label beer� is “going to play games with you?� Ohhhhh-kay.
A woman beer drinker “isn’t afraid to be herself, right down to the last chug, and she’ll tell you exactly what’s on her mind.â€? No mention, curiously, of designer labels, which presumably mean nothing to women unless they’re surfing AOL’s “Shoppingâ€? channel, in the authors’ minds.
A woman who orders Champagne prompts both a compliment and a warning: “A palate for champagne suggests that she likes the finer things in life; be prepared to give them to … . Don’t worry though; she’ll make it worth your while.â€? As for men, the authors counsel women that, “If you don’t already have his number, get it now!â€?
Garcon! A bottle of Dom, s’il vous plait…
As for the more spirituous libations, here’s what AOL had to say about dating a whiskey-drinking woman: “Be afraid … very afraid. This woman is a wild one, and there’s no stopping her once she gets going … don’t play poker with her. You’ll lose your shirt.â€?
Meanwhile, men who order margaritas can be judged by – what kind of margarita. If he orders it “served on the rocks, you’ll know he loves the ladies. Served frozen, then this guy is probably better off dating his mother.â€? Men who prefer daiquiris fare no better: “A daiquiri is like a learners permit for life. Sure he can drive, but not without training wheels. … Check please!â€?
Okay, I finally found something I could agree with the AOL authors on — in the “Martiniâ€? section, of all places: Fruit-flavored and other non-traditional martinis, the authors say, “went out with the last episode of ‘Sex in the City’.â€?
Amen to that.
Are these glimpses inside the minds of drinkers at the singles bar right on — or a bit skewed? Let us know by posting a comment.
Thanks, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
P.S. There must be a LOT of women dreaming of being a soccer mom while they hold that glass of wine, because California wine sales in the U.S. reached record highs in 2005, according to the Wine Institute. Cheers again!
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Wine consumers, watch your wallets!
It’s already legal for Ohio consumers to order wine from out-of-state wineries if they jump through the proper hoops. Then why is it important to those who support such freedoms to codify those changes into state law through proposed legislation along the lines of the bill introduced by State Sen. Eric Fingerhut — a bill I wrote about in the Dayton Daily News business section last week?
The answer may surprise you. We’ll let Fingerhut himself explain it.
The current shipping rules were changed not by legislation but by a July 2005 settlement agreement to a state court case. The settlement put Ohio into compliance with a May 2005 U.S. Supreme Court decision. The Supreme Court ruled that states could not treat out-of-state wineries — which had been prohibited from shipping wine to Ohioans — differently than in-state wineries, which have always been able to ship within the state. But without legislation to “lock in” these new rules, the Ohio LIquor Control Commission could change those regulations in other ways that consumers may not like.
Specifically, according to Fingerhut, state liquor-control officials told him that they would like to force out-of-state wineries to APPLY OHIO’S CURRENT MINIMUM MARKUP to the prices the wineries charge Ohioans. The current three-tier system in Ohio mandates markups that double the price of every bottle of wine by the time it moves from the producer to the consumer, with the wholesaler and the retailer each getting a guaranteed minimum cut.
“Ohioans would have to pay twice as much as a winery generally charges,” Fingerhut said — and the wineries, not the state, would pocket the excess profits. “So there would be no benefit to the consumer, to the state or to the taxpayer.”
The liquor control folks contend that such a requirement “would level the playing field” when it comes to pricing, Fingierhut said.
We assume they meant level the playing field for wine wholesalers and retailers — and not for consumers. However, according to a spokesman for the Ohio Department of Commerce’s Division of Liquor Control, Ohio wineries who sell directly to consumers are required to mark up their wines by the minimum markups.
Despite that, I wonder whether it even be legal for a state to dictate pricing to an out-of-state entity. Someone help me out here …
Now, I cannot say to what degree politics is in play here — Fingerhut is a Democrat who has run for office statewide, while the governor is a Republican and both sides of the Ohio General Assembly are GOP-dominated — but this could get VERY interesting.
Keep your hand on your wallets…
Meanwhile, over at Wine Sediments today, guest columnist and Indianapolis-based wine blogger Jeff of GoodGrape fame knows exactly “What kind of wine do they serve at the Bada-Bing?” and in yesterday’s post, my WineSed colleague Andrew of Spittoon explores food-and-wine pairings and wonders whether food bloggers “are a bunch of teetotalers.”
Thanks, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Pinot gris stalks white zin — but chard, cab still rule
A little something quick and easy to digest on this Saturday morning:
Which grape varietals are hot, and which are not? You can get a glimpse of what your fellow wine enthusiasts are drinking in this San Francisco Chronicle story about Americans wine-drinking preferences.
Seems merlot is flat, cabernet is booming, and Pinot gris/pinot grigio may soon overtake white zinfandel.
And yes, chardonnay still rules.
Over at Wine Sediments today, guest columnist Justin Stephen, author of the wine blog Vinohound, posts an entry entitled “Rescuing the French from Themselves.”
Thanks for reading, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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