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Home > Blogs > Uncorked > Archives > 2006 > July > 31 > Entry
Last week’s Uncorked post on Wine Spectator called a ‘piece of tripe’
Great Googly Moogly! If you thought the Uncorked entry on Wine Spectator dining awards generated a robust debate with its two dozen comments, check out this thread on Mark Squires’ Bulletin Board on erobrtparker.com on the controversy, with its 100-plus comments, some of which are positively incendiary.
Most of the debate focuses on how meaningful the Spectator’s dining guide is, though some folks engage in some pretty intense Marvin Shanken-bashing.
I do not escape the wrath. Quite the contrary. One gentleman from Napa declares my article a “piece of tripe,” and says, “If that is an example of all Mr. Fisher has to offer, wine journalism in Dayton is dismal, indeed.”
Another reader says, “the original article by Fisher was kind of snarky, to be honest.”
Snarky? Me?
But one Los Angeles reader summed the brouhaha up this way:
I am somewhat amazed that quite a few of you are not bothered by the fact that a Dining Award is given to restaurants that were not visited. Simply paying the fee and sending the menu and wine list is sufficient. I think it is quite amazing. Certainly pretty clever from a strict business perspective; you pay, you write down a menu and wine list as you see fit, send it to the WS and you get an Award. The Award is then published in the WS for which the subscribers pay and the restaurateur proudly displays his Award in the restaurant, thus enhancing his restaurants image and drawing attention to the WS, which in turn might make for more subscribers. A beautiful business cycle. Only one problem: it has no meaning, since nobody verified what the restaurant sent. I have a new, great business idea that could wonderfully enhance his profits. Instead of actually tasting the wines (which takes expensive employees, and maybe cost of the wines – all of which is money), why not just have the wineries send a note describing the wine and the WS people can then give it a score. Much cheaper, faster, more efficient and thus more profitable for Mr. Shanken. Just an idea…
Wine Spectator itself is soliciting feedback on its dining guide at James Molesworth’s blog.
And that’s no tripe.
For another perspective on the debate, also check out the San Francisco-baed wine blog Vinography. The ‘net sure shrinks the world, doesn’t it?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Comments
By Mark O
August 4, 2006 11:56 AM | Link to this
Finally - someone busted Wine Spectator. Although some of WS’ articles are very good, it has been clear for some time that at least a part of the WS rating score is related to the advertising dollar. My guess is that will not change any time soon.
By ToddN
August 1, 2006 6:52 PM | Link to this
Mark, Just remember; tripe, when handled well, is divine.
By Gene - Seattle Wine Blog
August 1, 2006 1:30 PM | Link to this
Mark, In my book, tripe is delicious! More tripe, please. Why not do a piece on the hideous prices many “award-winning” restaurants charge for their wines. Sometimes their wine lists make for interesting reading while waiting for food, but why would anyone want to pay more than three times wholesale and two times retail for wines that may seem impressive, but are, in fact not very interesting. I wish more restaurants followed the example of Nick’s in McMinnville, Oregon where the wines are local, interesting and frequently marked up only $8 above retail.
By cathy
July 31, 2006 2:57 PM | Link to this
Oh, and Mark, please don’t ever stop being “snarky,” cuz I find it fantastically hilarious. As for the “tripe” comment, well, I don’t know what the stomach of an ox has to do with any of this. ;-)
By Cathy
July 31, 2006 2:40 PM | Link to this
Interesting. Wine-o, that is quite a story. Sure has me saying, “Hmmm…” Also, check out the bottom of this winebar’s website: http://www.domainehudson.com/wine.html
By wine-o
July 31, 2006 12:09 PM | Link to this
As someone who crafted an “award”-winning list I will also add this nugget: The Spectator used everything short of Mafioso tactics to get me to drop $8,000 to advertise in the restaurant guide. My $250 entry fee apparently wasn’t enough. And even though we have 1,000 wines MORE than their usual criteria for meriting the 2nd level award, we only received the 1st level. Sour grapes? Maybe. But what if we had advertised with them? Would I have received the higher award, as others with the 2nd level award have suggested? Hmmm….
By Todd
July 31, 2006 11:14 AM | Link to this
Tripe? SNARKY??? Just perish the thought.