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Home > Blogs > Uncorked > Archives > 2006 > September > 20 > Entry
The letter that Wine Spectator refused to publish?
When Nancy Bentley, co-owner of Kinkead Ridge winery in Ripley, Ohio, read a Wine Spectator piece about the cuisine of the west and midwest, she found it rather odd that the wines mentioned were ALL from the west, with nary mention of a single wine produced in the heartland. So she sat down and fired off a letter:
To the editors, Wine Spectator: I was very surprised that your World of Food issue appreciated food in the West and Midwest, but the wine section was relegated to Wines of the West only. Recently, a wine challenge similar to the famous Judgment of Paris, and judged by a master sommelier, among others, pitted Ohio wines against comparable European and California wines. Three of the Ohio wineries, including Kinkead Ridge, Ferrante and Busch-Harris bested their more expensive competitors, and six others were close in points. Tom Stevenson, British wine writer, has favorably recognized Midwest wineries in his 2006 Wine Report. As editor of the New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopeida, he says, “Virginia promises to be the East Coast’s Washington State, while Pennsylvania and Ohio are the dark horses.” West and East Coast myopia? Apparently a cure for myopia is the use of corrective lenses, or glasses. I suggest you bring your Reidels and taste what is happening with estate wineries in the Midwest!
Now, seems to me that this is a quite reasonable letter, well written, a nice turn of the phrase or two — in short, something readers might want to read in the Spectator’s letters column.
But alas, ‘twas not to be, apparently. Nancy received a reply from a Wine Spectator editorial assistant thanking her for writing, assuring her that her letter had been shared with the “editorial staff,” saying nothing about publication, and — here’s the best part — alerting her to the upcoming tastings articles, just in case she would like to submit her wines for review. The tastings schedule extends out to May of 2007 and mentions big feature stories in the works on South Africa, Austria, Germany, Chile, Greece, Champagne, Argentina, Burgundy, Rhone, Portugal, Alsace … you get the idea.
But nothing from middle America.
Following what had to be a slow burn and probably 11 drafts that were far more incendiary, Nancy wrote the following nice, calm, yet rather icy reply:
Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be a single category relevant to our geographic area, the midwest. This was precisely the point of my letter.
Hello. Wine Spectator? Is there anybody home?
Judging by this exchange, apparently not.
And Ohio wine producers will have to search for respect elsewhere, apparently.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Comments
By david
September 22, 2006 1:23 PM | Link to this
Perry Luntz’s comment highlights a point I was trying to make in my previous comment. I’ve been struck by how much Ohioans idolize big brand-name Californian wines. In New York, we kind of look down on those wines. In general, New Yorkers prefer boutiques and mom and pops to chains and big brand names.Midwesterners seem to have an affinity for chains and brand names. The result is Midwesterners can be their own worst enemies because midwestern wineries are mostly boutiques. Granted, the boutiques New Yorkers prefer are usually in Europe. However, I don’t think it would take much for them to look in their own backyard if shown the quality,especially since, by nature of the climate, eastern wines are more old world in style which is their preference. Alot of people in New York are sick of California wines and looking for alternatives.By PERRY LUNTZ
September 22, 2006 9:16 AM | Link to this
My free monthly newsletter BEVERAGE ALCOHOL MARKET REPORT,requires me to attend all kinds of wine tastings. Two years ago I went to one where the owner of a California winery himself attended. I asked how come he showed up in NYC? He said well he wanted to visit some of his distributors and it was the first time he had ever shown his wines here. I asked where does he show his wines then? The response: Oh last month we went to Idaho and Montana. It’s not only the Spectator that’s beholden to California — the wineries are also parochial. In fact, so are the Midwestern wineries who never hold a tasting here in the nation’s largest single wine market. Granted its expensive for a small winery, but they could form a promotional group and share the expenses. It might be an eye-opener for trade and consumers alike most of whom never knew that pre-prohibition, Missouri was the country’s leading wine producing state and that wine has been made in Ohio since the 19th century. Let’s get the trade educated even without the Spectator rather than worry about its provincialism. Good Luck. Perry LuntzBy david
September 22, 2006 2:14 AM | Link to this
I live in New York and regularly commute to my vineyard and winery in Ohio. I see both sides of the coasts/ midwestern divide. I think the terroirs of Ohio are the best of the east and can compete with California. One only has to look at the climate and soils of Ohio to see that they match the premier terroirs of Europe more than anywhere else in the country. The only thing that is holding Ohio back is vineyard and winemaking practices. I recently went to a representative wine festival in Ohio. Every wine was very sweet and usually ameliorated with concord or niagara to give that grapey taste that so many local people crave. The supposedly quality producers overoak their wines so much that you can’t tell how the wine actually tastes. Worse, I recently was told by a neighboring winery that my vineyard practices that emphasize quality (this really happened) were alienating me from the rest of the winery owners in Ohio. For example, my high-vine density vineyard with difficult varieties to grow like brunello, nebbiolo and touriga are thriving despite every person in the wine industry telling me they wouldn’t. I wish more growers and winemakers in Ohio would recognize Ohio’s viticultural potential, and go out on a limb like I have, plant the best varieties, use the best viticultural practices, stop ameliorating the wines, and then the wine media would start to notice. New Yorkers (where much of the wine media is) are more open-minded than you think. No one in New York has ever told me I couldn’t do what I’m doing in Ohio, though many in Ohio have. It takes people outside of Ohio to really accept its viticultural potential. Before they can, growers, winemakers and wine drinkers in Ohio have to recognize and allow its potential.By Eric Quanstrom
September 21, 2006 7:23 PM | Link to this
Mark, Thanks for publishing this curious piece, but rather than focusing on what one wine publication chooses to ignore, may I suggest reading a wine publication that not only supports Ohio (and ALL other Midwest Wineries)… and discovering the great wines in one’s own backyard: http://wine.appellationamerica.com/wine-region/Ohio.html At Appellation America, we are committed to the exploration and discovery of each of our nation’s great wine growing regions. By the way, our editorial staff accepts bottle samples for wine recommendations from all wineries (we only print reviews of wines our professional wine writers recommend) that are published daily (well in advance of May 2007).By Nancy Bentley
September 21, 2006 2:40 PM | Link to this
We subscribe to the Wine Spectator. I read many articles about very small wineries in California (one 400 case one comes to mind); and they are interesting stories. We have an interesting story because we sold our Pinot Noir vineyard in Oregon and moved to Ohio to renaissance a historic viticultural area. Many of the wines the Spectator reviews would not be commonly available due to limited production.By Gerald Weisl, wine merchant
September 21, 2006 12:26 PM | Link to this
In 1995 The Wine Spectator wrote an article focusing on paella and its affinities with wines. Unfortunately, these eno-scribes could not find any SPANISH WINE to pair with paella. “…Traditional Spanish white wines lack the body and the richness to stand up to all those flavors. Of the wines we sampled with this paella, however, no pattern emerged favoring either red or white— although it definitely liked non-Spanish wines. A light Rioja Blanco faded into the background, but richer whites, including several styles of Chardonnay and even Viognier, struck a lovely balance. Among reds, youthful Rioja and Zinfandel lost their fruity charms, but a light Pinot Noir, of all things, kept its spicy flavors in balance….” Chateau Souverain’s Merlot was their best pick to serve with paella. Matching local wines to regional cuisine does not seem to be the Spectator’s forte. In fact, I’m not sure what they do especially well with respect to wine.By Chris
September 21, 2006 10:56 AM | Link to this
Wine Spectator should definitely review wines from the Midwest/East at some time, but don’t forget - it isn’t myopic to omit those wines, just good business. Most of their readers don’t have access to Traverse City Chardonnay nor Kinkeads and would therefore be less inclined to care about a review. The wines of the world - aka France, Germany, Spain…- have far more appeal and of course, history. I think the letter should have been published, but my suggestion is to submit your wines - if they don’t get to it until May of next year, so be it - have patience. Respectfully - MADWINO!By Tim
September 21, 2006 10:22 AM | Link to this
Fully agree that non-traditional wine making regions get short shrift from major publications… as a native Michigander, I can’t stand when some snooty waiter looks down at me ‘cause I want a Traverse City Chardonnay instead of the 3 times as much Napa select vintage. People have to realize that we here who live in the Midwest and anywhere not on the Atlantic or Pacific are subject to “flyover country”. Media from both coasts still consider everything in between NY and LA to be “corn-fed hickville” and not worthy of discussion. Happens all the time in sports, looks like it happens in wine too.By Mike
September 21, 2006 9:27 AM | Link to this
There have been so many occasions when my first instinct was to put the Spectator into the “round” file, that I don’t bother to look at it anymore except to see if they have expanded their view eastward. The signs are all there, the beginnings of an American Wine Industry, and Ohio will be a significant player in this new and expanded wine world.By Linda Outterson
September 21, 2006 8:56 AM | Link to this
As fellow winemakers in Kinkead’s area, Woodstone Creek shares Nancy’s frustration. However, Wine Spectator reflects that old school mentality which is not shared by all the loyal customers who stop by our place. And, thank heaven, there are many MORE winelovers than readers of this glossy tribute to print advertising and conspicuous consumption.By Jim
September 21, 2006 6:52 AM | Link to this
Perhaps if Nancy had photoshopped and included a picture with her standing next to Ernie Els Mr. Shanken’s pals might have paid more attention to her letter.By Carl Jahnes
September 20, 2006 6:00 PM | Link to this
Mark, its a shame that we all can’t chuckle at our ‘provincialism’. The ‘Millennials’ (jargon marketing term for ‘young adults’…) who came from NYC to my daughter’s wedding on our hill, the grapevines of Flint Ridge Vineyard advancing south down a slope everyone who sees it says, “Looks just like Napa..(someday I hope it tastes that way…), under a chuppa made of wild grapevines, who imbibed on our wines later were effusive in their, it seems to me, flattery. I said to one fellow, ‘We know we are provincial here…and we trust that others recognize their own provincialism and, well, not let it interfere with what may be surprising and tasty, minus the preconceptions. Anyway, we were in Sonoma a few years ago on a wine tour and in nearly EVERY winery had good Chardonnay, Cab Sav,Shiraz, Sauv Blanc, Pinot Noirs, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc. I admit my Eastern Provincialism! I, after tasting perfection after perfection, missed the variety and willing to take risks in the wines of the Wild Wild East. Come an see us when you get the chance. We’ll roll out the Moss Carpet.By Gordo
September 20, 2006 4:06 PM | Link to this
Mark: I just want all the folks out there interested in some great wine that on this Saturday, 09/23/06, the “Winery at Versailles” (OH, NOT France) is having a “Wine and Jazz Festival” which includes a celebration of their wines, a lot of live jazz music, some good food, and lots of good company. It will be held at the winery (some activity is in the tasting room, but most is out in the “back 40” behind the winery.) It will begin at 2:00 p.m. and will end at 8:00 p.m. It costs either $20.oo or $25.oo to get in (I forget which). Also, for the 1st time there will be an “Amatuer Winemaker” Contest, winners will be announced the same day. Interested individuals should go to (where else) www.wineryatversailles.com/ You can get there by Ohio Routes 48 (from Dayton), and 49 (just north of Greenville, OH). I hope to see you there this Saturday!By Dennis
September 20, 2006 2:27 PM | Link to this
In a related vein, one of my pet peaves is restaurants/chefs that go out of their way to get only the best local meats and produce yet never feature local wines. Also while I am ranting, why do the chef’s featured menu items rarely coorespond to the monthly featured wines?By Peg
September 20, 2006 12:48 PM | Link to this
Anyone home at Spectator? Perhaps everyone is out inspecting wine lists at Grand Award winning restaurants :)By Nancy Bentley
September 20, 2006 8:03 AM | Link to this
Thanks, Mark, for giving this some visibility. I feel compelled to point out that we have had international attention from Andrew Jones (editor, wineontheweb.com), Tom Stevenson, British editor New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, and praise from the chef from Michel Rostang, Paris, at Gourmet Sensation for our 04 Cab Franc (he couldn’t believe the quality and price). Bernard Portet, Clos du Val favorably reviewed our 2004 Viognier/Roussanne, and other winemakers, including Dick Erath have recognized the quality of the wines from our very young vineyard.By John
September 20, 2006 7:04 AM | Link to this
After tasting Kinkead Ridge wines I can vouch they’re quite good and should be measured against America’s other top wines. What is the Wine Spectator afraid of?