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October 2006
A strange but historic French blend — for a good cause
Merlot from Bordeaux meets syrah from Hermitage at the equivalent of the 50-yard-line. That’s the idea behind the 2005 M², a 50/50 blend of merlot from Michel Rolland’s Chateau Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol and syrah from Michel Chapoutier’s L’Ermite vineyard.
Michel + Michel = M². I guess M&M was already trademarked, eh?
Lest we think such blending is some sort of abomination or assault on terroir, the Decanter.com story mentions that the practice of adding Hermitage to Bordeaux was common in the 19th century. So there.
Besides, the wine will be sold only at auction, and all proceeds will go to Chapoutier’s charitable foundation, M. Chapoutier Vins et Santé, set up in 1994 to help children with leukemia. Click on the link to register for the auction.
The Decanter.com story said Rolland could not venture a guess on how much money he and Chapoutier hoped to raise from the wine. “We don’t know, but we hope it is bought by very rich people who have plenty to spend on helping the cause.”
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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The best wines to pair with … Halloween candy?
I just KNOW you woke up this morning pondering that very question. So I’ve done some research and found some answers, first from our former Oxford/Miami University friend, John Vankat, who now writes for the Arizona Daily Sun, and also from Wine Enthusiast Online.
So now you know what to open to wash down the candy you filch from your kids’ stash tonight. Trick or Treat!
Mark Fisher
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Schildknecht: New boss Parker’s disparaging Burgundy comments won’t affect my role
Fellow wine blogger Alder reports on his Vinography blog on a recent blind tasting of several California pinot noirs and France’s finest pinots from Burgundy, all led by none other than Robert M. Parker. The results are somewhat surprising — but in line with recent head-to-head CA-vs.-France “taste-offs.”
Thanks to John in Perrysburg for tipping me off to the posting via a comment on the Uncorked post entitled Even when the French TRY to stack the deck, they can’t win. And John, I think your concern about the impact of Parker’s comments on David Schildknecht’s ability to do his job is overstated. It will create some discomfort, certainly, but I have a hunch David will be able to rise above it.
In fact, I contacted David to get his take on the issue, and here was his reply, which I reprint here with his permission:
I cannot see that this event would cast my future writing about Burgundy in any different light. Bob is well known to be a bit irreverent- and for good reasons - when the subject is Burgundy. About Schildknecht, nobody can know, since although I at times during in my retail days covered both Alsace and Bordeaux for Steve Tanzer, I have never published notes on Burgundy, the region of France where I have spent the most time and whose wines I have sold in the largest numbers during my twenty-five years in the trade. Bob is well known as a supporter — again, I believe, for excellent reasons — of American Pinot Noir and is an ideal person to have instigated and presided at such a comparative tasting. I myself have never been involved in such a tasting although I think I would benefit from making a point of so-doing - and perhaps of making a fool of myself in the process! Bob gets paid to express his opinions on Burgundy — even if less often than on other subjects vinous — and I shall be getting paid (by him, but ultimately by the same wine loving public) to express mine. I’m quite sure neither of us will get in the other’s way!
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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The weekend the world awaited
The headline for this post is a throwback to a hot dog slogan from a loooooooong time ago. Does anybody besides this old-timer remember when Kahn’s made “The wiener the world awaited”? Anybody? (Cricket, cricket.) Anybody?
Sigh.
Well, I always have the weekend wine tastings to console me. And they appear to be mighty tasty, as usual. This tastings list comes from a Dayton-based wine listserv which compiles it.
If this blog has looked kinda funny this week, you weren’t imagining things. We’ve been having technical glitches, but I think it all got fixed this morning.
Meanwhile, to gaze lovingly at the tastings and events list, just click on “continue reading,” and cheers!
Mark
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, October 27, 2006 4-8 pm 2002 Treana White 2004 Fattoria Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2002 Raymond Reserve Cabernet 2000 Raymond Generations 2002 Sassicia
Saturday, October 28, 2006 1-6 pm NV Jordan Rose 2004 Xavier Desson Givry 1er 2004 Care Syrah Tempranillo 2003 Chateau Vergnes Beaulieu
Raymond Wine Dinner – Thursday, October 26, 2006 7 PM $55 Assorted seafood in puff pastry with light herb cream sauce, Smoked stuffed quail with balsamic-onion marmalade, Venison medallions with red wine caramelized pears, baked butternut squash spaetzle with cheese and walnuts, Roasted stuffed apple with pecans and brown sugar maple syrup sauce.
Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7pm Jay’s Africa Photography Dinner
Arrow – Kettering Saturday, October 28, 2006 11-4 pm 2005 Domaine Georges Brunet Vouray, Demi-Sec 2005 Someain Guy Allion “le Haut Perron� Cabernet Malbec 2003 Chateau Marquis de Vaubon “Vielles Vignes� (Red Bordeaux) 2001 Wellington Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley 2003 Cenit “Vinas del Cenit� Tempranillo
Arrow’s annual Holiday Tasting! Sunday, November 12, 2006 6:30-8:30 pm Arrow Wine & Spirits Centerville Store Over 75 great wines! $35.00 per person, limited to the first 150 pre-paid reservations. Call the Centerville Store at 433-6778.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM OakwoodFriday, October 27, 2006 5-8pm J Lauren Cremant NV River Road Pinot Noir 2005 Chateau Souverain Merlot 2002 Tenuta Terre Nero Etna Rosso 2003 Dourthe #1 Bordeaux 2002 Brown Fuzzy Bag
Saturday, October 28, 2006 1-6pm Talbot Chardonnay 2003 Lane Tanner Syrah 2003 Molly Dooker Carnival of Love 2005 Far Niente Cabernet 2000 Chateau La Garde Bordeaux 2003 La Croix de Beaucaillou Bordeaux 2003 Bonus Wines
Beers: Rogue Monk Madness Bell’s Hell Hath No Fury American Dubbel Dark Ale
DLM Washington Square Thursday, October 26, 2006 5-8pm 2003 Verget Canniculus Chablis “Vaillons� 2004 Razon Tinto 2004 Yelcho Merlot 2004 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc 2003 La Spinetta Barbera d’Alba Bionzo Mystery Wine
Saturday, October 28, 2006 12-5pm Fifi’s Spooky Saturday Tasting Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 7 Deadly Zins Yarraman “Hell Raiser� Cabernet/Merlot Blackstone Napa Valley Merlot Bonny Doon “Heart of Darkness� Vampire Cabernet
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, October 27, 2006 3-7pm 04 Honig Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc 04 Talley Chardonnay 04 Cambria Pinot Noir 01 Ristow Cabernet
Saturday, October 28, 2006 12-5pm 04 Sequoia Grove Chardonnay 02 Ravens Wood Dickerson Zinfandel 03 Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet 03 Andrew Will Red Wine
Dorothy Lane Market will hold its 2006 Food & Wine Show from 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. on Thursday, Nov. 2 at its Springboro store. The cost is $70 — an increase from last year.
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, October 27, 2006 What do they all have in common? La Noble Chardonnay 2005 Solex Chardonnay 2004 Piccini Chianti Classico Pinossimo Pinot Noir 2004 Cortijo Tempranillo 2005
Beer: Stoudt’s Fat Dog
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, October 28
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, November 1, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, October 28, 2006 2004 Beringer Napa Valley Chardonnay 2004 Sbragia Family Vineyards Zinfandel 2004 Greg Norman Estates Shiraz 2003 Greg Norman Cabernet-Merlot 2002 Sbragia Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
L’Auberge Thursday, October 26, 2006 L’Auberge is having an evening of Mediterranean food and wine featuring the wines from Dr. Juan Palomar’s Estate in Ugijar, Spain for only $69 per person. Call 299.5536 for reservations. Reif has flown in some fabulous Spanish foods for the dinner!
Tuesday, October 31, 2006 7 pm Halloween night there will NOT be a tasting! These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Bear’s Lair Chardonnay (2004) California; Trader Joe’s Chilean Merlot (2004) Chile; Trapiche Malbec (2003) Mendoza, Argentina
Inn of Versailles (937) 526-3232 Final Wine Tasting Dinner of 2006, Saturda, November 11th at 7:00pm. Featured wines are from Rodney Strong. Chef Michael Delligatta has created Reservations, (Call 937.526.3020 or email innatversailles@earthlink.net ) as seating is limited and reservations are required. The price will be $75.00 per person tax and tip included. See website: www.innatversailles.com for the complete menu.
The Winery at Versailles: Sat, Nov 4th, from7 to 9, will be a Party on the Patio night, with music by Mary Knapke and Friend, fall foods, and for dessert, roasted marshmallows over the fire pit! Warm wine, food, music, door prizes and fun. Cost is $10 per person. Call 937-526-3232 for details.
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Even when the French TRY to stack the deck, they can’t win
This is getting bizarre: even when the French try to stack the deck in a head-to-head blind tasting between French and American wines, they still can’t win.
In fact, they got smoked. At least, at the very top, which is what folks seem to remember most, a la the Paris 1976 tasting. (Guess the judges didn’t care for the Screaming Eagle, Harlan or Diamond Creek much this time around, did they? Ouch.)
But here’s my favorite part …
of the Decanter.com story:
Xavier Planty of Chateau Guiraud, where the tasting was held, had one theory as to why California won yet again: “When tasting wines from your own area, the critical part of your brain is switched on, when tasting from another area, the pleasure part is switched on.”
Oh, yeah, THAT explains it.
Priceless.
Now, don’t get me wrong — I’m actually a bit of a Francophile when it comes to wine consumption. But this squirming and dancing and gyrations by the French every time their wines get spanked in a truly blind taste comparison has become irrestible theater — theater of the absurd.
What next?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Wine + Cigars = Blech!
A reader asks the “Dinner with Chuck and Ann” blog for recommendations of the best wines to drink with cigars.
Oh, please.
Yeah yeah, I know, in some circles, wine and cigars are inseparable. Our friend Marvin Shanken of Wine Spectator fame also publishes Cigar Aficionado magazine. Locally, Arrow Wine & Spirits has always had a thriving smoke shop selling all types of pipes, tobacco and cigars.
My hunch is the vast majority of wine lovers do not share this enthusiasm for rolled, dried, overpriced, carcinogenic tobacco leaf. To my palate, the taste (or even the close-proximity aroma) of a cigar, no matter how “fine,” kills the taste of wine. Any wine. Even Port.
But that’s just me, right?
What do you think? Cigars and wine — yes or no?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Good wines flow at 55 Degrees holiday show
First of all, if you haven’t read the 8 comments generated by last week’s entry asking readers to share their experiences with rude behavior in restaurants, click here. But we digress.
Some of you know Ardie Bonanno, the Energizer Bunny of the local wine trade, from his many wine luncheons and guest pourer stints around town over the years.
Ardie has done it all in the wholesale-distributing end of the wine industry over several decades, and he continues to make waves with his relatively new company, 55 Degrees, which recently purchased another wine distributor, Langdon Shiverick Imports, and thus added a whole new line of wines to his company’s portfolio. (One of my fellow wine bloggers, Adam Mahler, works for 55 Degrees and had this to say on his Untagled Vine blog about the merger.
55 Degrees held its 2006 Holiday Show recently, in which it offers samples of its wines to representatives of wine shops, restaurants, grocery stores and others in the retail end of the business. It’s clear Ardie’s lineup is strong and getting stronger.
Among the highlights: (Please click on “continue reading”)
— A bargain-priced 2003 Chianti Classico from Fattoria Luiano — a mouthful of traditional-style, food-friendly Chianti for $13.99.
— Yet another successful vintage of Steltzner Claret, this time the 2004, for $14.99. How does this winery continue to produce this good of a $15 red year after year after year?
— A 2005 Jaffurs Viognier Santa Barbara ($24.99) that was simply the best viognier I’ve ever tasted from California.
— A 2005 Sineann Oregon Pinot Noir ($34.99) that had everything I’d ever want in an Oregon pinot (or ANY pinot, for that matter), and which was so good it eclipsed its more expensive, singe-vineyard stablemate that cost $20 more.
— a 2003 Duxoup Gennaio Sangiovese Dry Creek ($19.99) that combined this grape’s food-friendly acidity with rare depth of fruit in a wine that tasted as if it should cost more. (Does anybody else remember a Duxoup winemaker’s dinner many, many years ago at the Savory restaurant on Smithville?)
— a stunning 2005 Roussanne from McCrea Cellars in Washington state (Roussanne from Washington? Who knew?) for $29.99.
I’m not sure whether these wines have hit the retail shelves yet locally, or whether they’re on their way.
Either way, tastes like Ardie is up to his old tricks of the (wine) trade.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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A weekend of wine awaits
Oh, sure, on the weekend I’m not going to be around, the wine tastings list looks particularly wonderful. Rub it in. This is a conspiracy fer shure.
Of note, seems to me, are the two wine meals at Jay’s and the Robert Kacher wines at DLM Washington Square on Saturday. But what do I know?
Here’s what I know: This tastings list is copied and pasted from a Dayton-based wine listserv that does all the heavy lifting of compiling it. So enjoy the fruits of the listserv’s labor!
Click on “continue reading” to access the tastings list, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Two new venues for wine tasting in November! TomKatz Dining & Spirits in Springboro and Giovanni Restaurant in Fairborn will begin tastings.
For those of you who enjoy music with your food and wine, Doug Simon and Eric Sayer (Doug Simon Duo) will be playing Saturday, October 21, 7:30-11:30 pm at the Blue Moon Bistro.
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, October 20, 2006 4-8 pm Merryvale Wines! www.merryvale.com
Saturday, October 21, 2006 1-6 pm Merryvale Wines! www.merryvale.com
Please call Jay’s 222-2892 for reservations for the following events! Merryvale Wine Luncheon - Saturday, October 21, 2006 12:30 pm $55 Wild mushroom spring tools with dipping sauce, Curried lobster bisque, Veal chop Marsala with sweet potato hash, Poached Pear
Raymond Wine Dinner – Thursday, October 26, 2006 7 PM $55 Assorted seafood in puff pastry with light herb cream sauce, Smoked stuffed quail with balsamic-onion marmalade, Venison medallions with red wine caramelized pears, baked butternut squash spaetzle with cheese and walnuts, Roasted stuffed apple with pecans and brown sugar maple syrup sauce.
Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7pm Jay’s Africa Photography Dinner
Arrow – Kettering Saturday, October 21, 2006 11-4 pm 2005 Rudi Wiest Rubin River Riesling 2002 Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay 2003 Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2005 Boglietti Dolcetto D’Alba 2003 Tyrus Evan Syrah 2003 Trentadue Merlot
Arrow’s annual Holiday Tasting! Sunday, November 12, 2006 6:30-8:30 pm Arrow Wine & Spirits Centerville Store Over 75 great wines! $35.00 per person, limited to the first 150 pre-paid reservations. Call the Centerville Store at 433-6778.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM OakwoodFriday, October 20, 2006 5-8pm Cusumano Insolia 2004 Louis Latour Domaine Valmoissine 2004 Bennett Family Cabernet 2003 Clio Jumilla 2003 Molly Dooker Enchanted Path 2005 Brown Bag!
Saturday, October 21, 2006 1-6pm A great selection of wines will be tasted!
DLM Washington Square Thursday, October 19, 2006 5-8pm 2004 Verget du Sud Vin de Pays de Vaucluse 2003 Qupe Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Syrah 2003 Zener d’Avola 2002 Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2003 Clio Jumilla Mystery Wine
Saturday, October 21, 2006 12-5pm Anne from Robert Kacher Imports will be here to taste several of their French wines. Tourraine Sauvignon Blanc Mure Gewurtztraminer Brunel Grenache Santa Duc Gigondas Michel Ogier Cote Rotie
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, October 20, 2006 3-7pm 2005 Don Olegario Albarino 2003 Nicolas Potel Pinot Noir 2003 Saint Cosme Saint-Joseph 1997 Hacienda Monasterio
Saturday, October 21, 2006 12-5pm 2004 Darioush Chardonnay 1999 Torii Mor Pinot Noir 2002 Darioush Shiraz 1999 Merryvale Profile
Dorothy Lane Market will hold its 2006 Food & Wine Show from 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. on Thursday, Nov. 2 at its Springboro store. The cost is $70 — an increase from last year.
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, October 20, 2006 Cline 2005 Pinot Grigio/Chard Thierry Hamlin 2002 Chablis Domain Joseph Voillot 2004 Champans 1er Cru Volnay Langhorne Crossing 2003 Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec Le Cupole Trinoro 2003
Beer: Flying Dog Gonzo Porter
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, October 21 Wine tasting from 10AM to 2PM
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, October 25, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays! Lockwood Vineyard Wines www.lockwood-wine.com
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, October 21, 2006 2005 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Sem/Chard 2005 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz/Cabernet 2005 Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Merlot 2003 Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz 2003 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz
L’Auberge Tuesday, October 24, 2006 7 pm tasting! These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, October 20th, 5-8 pm ~ Spanish Wines with Homemade Paella. Friday evening you’re in for a real treat! Not only are there five fantastic Spanish wines, Hector Esteve of Paella At Your Place Will be preparing fresh, Paella at the tasting.
Saturday, October 21, 3-6 pm ~ Wines from Mandolin Winery Grapes for wines produced by Mandolin Vintners are sourced from the Central Coast region of California.
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Kir Imperiale: Schloss Biebrich sparkling from Germany and Bonny Doon Framboise, California; Il Circo Uva di Troia (2002) DOC Castel del Monte, Italy; Epicuro Aglianico (2004) IGT Beneventano, Italy
Chin’s Ginger Grill Wine Tasting - Thurs. 10-19-06. 7 pm (937) 667- 6664 Call for reservations 965 W. Main Street, Tipp City, OH 45371 1. Pikes Riesling (dry),2005 2. Wishing Tree Chardonnay,2006 3. Rutherglen The Reunion (MSG),2004 4. Hewitson Miss Harry (GSM),2004 5. TIR na N’OG Grenache, 2004
La Petite France Friday, October 20, 2006 6:30 PM $60 per person “Journey Through France� tasting will be featuring a fine wine selection from Burgundy, the Loire and Rhone River valleys, and Bordeaux.
The dinner menu will feature scallop, endive, watercress, goat cheese & apple salad for the first course, asparagus, prosciutto & gruyere cheese crepe for the 2nd, roasted pork tenderloin with fig chutney and mashed carrots and parsnips for the 3rd, and pumpkin creme brulee for dessert. www.lapetitefrance.biz
The Winery at Versailles (937) 526-3232 Sign up for the Saturday, October 21st, Gourmet Fall Dinner. Dinner starts at 7:30 p.m. Cost is $50 per person and includes dinner, wine and tax.
Sat, Nov 4th, from7 to 9, it will be our Party on the Patio night, with music by Mary Knapke and Friend, fall foods, and for dessert, roasted marshmallows over the fire pit! Warm wine, food, music, door prizes and fun. Cost is $10 per person.
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Vintage 2005 takes the world by blitzkrieg
I got to thinking after a few of our Australian winemaker friends waxed eloquent last weekend about the merits of the 2005 vintage Down Under: ‘05 might be one of those magical years that produces high-quality juice in nearly every wine-growing region in the world.
I’ve already had a couple of French whites from ‘05 that exceeded expectations, and every single ‘05 German wine I’ve tasted has had just the right balance between fruit and acidity that define the best riesling vintages in Germany. But don’t take my word alone: Jon Bonné from MSNBC has done an excellent job of summing up the 2005 vintage in Germany and explaining the appeal of German wines overall.
Tell you what: If you want to experience an absolutely ethereal wine-and-food pairing, take some time this weekend to make the Butternut Squash Bisque from the food piece I wrote for today’s Dayton Daily News (the recipe is down at the bottom of the story, so you’ll have to do some scrolling).
While you’re out buying the ingredients for the bisque, look for a bottle of 2005 Dragonstone from Joseph Leitz, an off-dry German riesling. Chill wine, make soup, taste soup, taste wine. The two were made for each other.
Wine-and-food matches like this — and vintages such as 2005 — make life a fun ride.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Why, that’s the RUDEST, most INconsiderate, outRAGEous thing I’ve ever seen!
What is the rudest, most inconsiderate thing you’ve seen a restaurant customer do? I’ve noticed some doozies lately and was wondering: Is it just me? Or are these things happening more often?
You could simply tell your experience here by clicking on the “post a comment” link below, but I’m planning to write a story for the Dayton Daily News about this topic, so if you could send your observations to mfisher@daytondailynews.com, that would be even better. If you would, include your name, hometown and a way I can reach you, so I could follow up if I have questions.
And speaking of rude … check out the comments portion at the bottom of this Santa Rosa Press Democrat story about Sonoma County chardonnay growers getting slammed with fungus-rot that is ruining perfectly good wine grapes in their fields. Some readers who commented on the story were, shall we say, less than sympathetic. Nasty, actually.
Their mothers raised them better.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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If this keeps up, red wine may soon be available by prescription
The trickle of reports about the health benefits of wine, and particularly red wine, have turned into a raging river. This time the good news comes from scientists from Johns Hopkins University, who report in this Reuters News Service story that red wine might work to protect the brain from damage after a stroke.
The researchers concluded that drinking roughly two glasses of red wine a day might provide that brain protection ahead of time. The study performed on mice focused on the compound resveratrol that is found in abundance in red wine.
This study comes right on the heels of another study that suggested compounds in cabernet sauvignon (and presumambly other forms of red wine) may reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s disease.
Jeez, this is getting ridiculous. Pretty soon our physicians are going to be whipping out theire prescription pads and writing up scripts for cases of cab franc or Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
I’ll be waiting for that day.
Cheers (and I do mean cheers)!
Mark Fisher
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Trader Joe’s wines are once again put to the test
First, do this: Go to Google and type in the following (including quotation marks): “Trader Joe’s” and wine …. Of the hundreds of thousands of web sites generated by that search, do you see which one comes up first?
(Oh, okay, I’ll do it for you. Here’s what you get with the search.)
Now do the same thing with a slightly different search term of “Trader Joe’s wine” (with quotation marks). This time, only a few hundred sites are returned, but take a look at what tops the list.
It’s been more than 10 months since I wrote the entry entitled A Trader Joe’s Wine-Buying Experience, but somehow, that piece has taken on a whole new life on the web, and continues to be “discovered” by hundreds of people a month. And apparently, the more people click on the link to read the story after a Google or Yahoo search, the more it rises on the list (someone can correct me if I’m under a mistaken iimpression). So somehow, that entry rose to the top of the heap, link-wise. I’m tellin’ ya, this whole Internet thing still boggles my tiny little mind.
I was reminded of all this when I read the piece from my friends at Wines and Vines Magazine that put a new line of Napa Valley wines available exclusively at Trader Joe’s to the test in a blind tasting. One of the wines in particular did quite well, despite a $4.99 (in California) price tag.
Could this Five-Buck Fannie be the next Two-Buck Chuck? Will this be Fred Franzia’s final revenge? And most importantly, will all of the identically labeled TJ wines be the same color?
Stay tuned ….
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Grateful Palate makes us grateful for Australian wines
The 10 visiting winemakers from the Grateful Palate portfolio of Australian wines have come and gone, but they are not forgotten.
The 10 winemakers that split up among Dorothy Lane Markets’ three stores on Saturday were a cheerful and easy-to-talk-to bunch, which is mildly surprising given the hectic schedule they’re enduring during their whirlwind tour of the U.S. As this is written Sunday, the traveling band is scheduled to be in Montana. Did I mention “whirlwind?”
I was only able to catch up with the group that offered their wines at DLM’s Washington Square store, but I’ve heard good things about the other winemakers as well. What were your favorites?
I found plenty to like in all price ranges, starting with the Paringa 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon for $8.99, a fine and gutsy house red, and the deeply fruity 2005 Pillar Box Red ($10.99), perhaps even better than the great-value 2004. And the Paringa Sparkling Shiraz ($9.99) would make a marvelous “bridge wine” for folks who don’t think they like red wines. It’s a winner.
So is the Lengs & Cooter 2005 Riesling ($17.99), a dry version for fans of Alsatian-style rieslings. Aromas of ripe apples followed by plenty of fruit but a cleansing, zingy finish, this wine might just improve in the bottle for a few years. And if you know any orthopedic surgeons or surgeons-in-training, you should give them a bottle of Willows “The Bonesetter” Shiraz ($59.99), made by a winemaker whose grandfather was indeed a bonesetter in the Prussian army before founding a winery in Australia.
It was quite a coup to bring these folks to Dayton, Ohio, and the tasting I attended had lots of unfamiliar faces — always a good sign of the dynamic nature of the local wine scene.
What did you taste this weekend, either at the DLM tastings or elsewhere, that made YOUR palate grateful?
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Burgess Cellars looks down on its Napa Valley neighbors
Steve Burgess (center) with his father Tom (right) and brother Jim (left)
No, Burgess Cellars doesn’t look down their noses at their Napa neighbors, just down, literally: Burgess’ estate vineyards are on Napa hillsides, not on the valley floor where most Napa wineries source their fruit. So Burgess wines benefit from that little extra kick of concentration and ageability that mountain-grown grapes seem to provide.
You’ve heard of Burgess, seen their wines, but you may not have considered them lately. Time to rectify that. Steve Burgess — the son of the Napa winery’s founder, Tom Burgess — made a whirlwind stop in Dayton last week to offer a glimpse into the winery’s current lineup, and the results were impressive.
But first, the obligatory Dayton connection (there always is one, dontcha know….) Tom Burgess is an Ohio native who was a fraternity brother of Arrow Wine & Spirits co-owner Mike Frank when the two were attending Miami University together a few years — well, a few decades, actually — back. Mike recalls that Burgess … (please click on “cointinue reading”)
…was a couple of years older, but as for other details, well — what goes on in the frat house, stays in the frat house.
Tom’s son Steve is a California boy all the way, with a wife and two preschool-age kids. He taught physics for a couple of years in California high schools before deciding to join his dad’s family business, and now he’s doing some winemaking, sales and marketing for Burgess Cellars.
The focus of the winery has changed in recent years, narrowing in a good way. Burgess now produces red wines only, jettisoning a chardonnay and grafting the white-wine vines over to red varietals. And Burgess now produces Napa Valley-sourced wines only, though you may still find a stray 2000 Lake County Burgess Syrah on the shelf locally.
But the winery’s flagship is its cabernet sauvignon. I sampled the 2003 vintage, which should hit local wine shelves soon, after the ‘02 sells out. The ‘03 is rich, deep and concentrated, yet beautifully balanced, without excessive oak, tannin or alcohol. And it has a touch of that choclatey thing going on that just begs the next sip. It’s top-shelf Napa cab, for a price considerably less than other cabs produced in the same zip code: $29.99, or perhaps $35.99, depending on when your retailer bought the wine from its distributor.
Burgess also holds back 10 percent of its cabernet production and cellars it at the winery for a decade before selling it as a “Library Release.” This is a fabulous idea that more wineries should emulate for their long-lived wines, and more restaurants and retailers should do it, too. I know this ties up money in inventory and may be impossible for some with limited space or resources, but the benefits to the consumer are well worth it. At least, that’s what Burgess Cellars has concluded: they’ve been doing it for 26 years now.
The Burgess LIbrary Release available locally is the 1993, which is still youthful in color and aromas and still a bit closed. It boasts a solid core of fruit, firm acidity and a hint of that choclatey note. Seems like it still needs time to hit its peak. The wine retails in the $50 range. And it makes me wonder what the Burgess 1994 — generally regarded as a stronger vintage in Napa than 1993 — will offer.
Burgess 2003 Merlot is a big, strapping, fruit-driven merlot whose flavors linger long after the wine is swallowed. I suspect it will improve for a couple more years.
Steve Burgess said he, his father and his brother strive for wines of balance, with a light touch on the oak and care to keep alcohol levels reasonable. “We’re making chef-friendly wines. We’re not making ports,” he said.
And they’re succeeding.
Ohio, by the way, is one of the states Burgess will ship to, according to the winery’s web site. But not, one would presume, to university frat houses. Even at Miami.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Once again, Dayton finds itself at the center of the wine universe
In the last week alone, an award-winning Italian winemaker came to the Miami Valley to visit, the son of a Napa Valley wine pioneer dropped by to pour his wines (more on that later), and on Saturday, ten — count ‘em, ten — Australian winemakers descend on the Dayton area to strut their stuff.
The winemakers will split up among the three Dorothy Lane Markets and pour wines from noon to 4 p.m. Saturday. Let’s give ‘em a fine Ohio welcome.
But heck, don’t stop there. Look at the cornucopia of wine riches that beckon — Beringer Sbragia chardonnay, Chateauneuf-du-Pape from a fine producer and a fine vintage, multiple Bordeaux reds, fine California pinots, a Zind-Humbrecht Alsatian … good heavens, it’s almost embarassing. Almost.
As usual, this tastings and events list comes to us courtesy of a Dayton-based wine listserv, which does all of the hard work of compiling it. This week’s list has a new (well, new to this list, anyway) restaurant on it. Can you find it?
Click on “Continue reading” to view the list …. Cheers!
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, October 13, 2006 4-8 pm 2004 Wild Horse Pinot Noir 2003 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 2001 Domaine de l’Église 2002 Chateau Lagrange
Saturday, October 14, 2006 1-6 pm 2005 Burgans Albarino 2004 King Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2000 Bosquet de Papes Châteauneuf du Pape 2003 Calon Segur
Please call Jay’s 222-2892 for reservations for the following events! Merryvale Wine Luncheon - Saturday, October 21, 2006 12:30 pm $55 Wild mushroom spring tools with dipping sauce, Curried lobster bisque, Veal chop Marsala with sweet potato hash, Poached Pear
Raymond Wine Dinner – Thursday, October 26, 2006 7 PM $55 Assorted seafood in puff pastry with light herb cream sauce, Smoked stuffed quail with balsamic-onion marmalade, Venison medallions with red wine caramelized pears, baked butternut squash spaetzle with cheese and walnuts, Roasted stuffed apple with pecans and brown sugar maple syrup sauce.
Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7pm Jay’s Africa Photography Dinner
For those of you who enjoy music with your food and wine, Doug Simon and Eric Sayer (Doug Simon Duo) will be playing Friday, October 13, 7:30-11:30pm at the Blue Moon Bistro, Wednesday, October 18, 7:00-11:00pm at Pacchia Café and Saturday, October 21, 7:30-11:30 pm at the Blue Moon Bistro.
Arrow Wine & Spirits – Kettering Saturday, October 14, 2006 11-4 pm 2001 Sbragia Chardonnay (Beringer) 2003 Cline, Oakley “Five Reds� 2004 Kenwood Pinot Noir “Russian River� 2003 Cloudview Napa 2005 Mollydooker presents: The Carnival of Love NV Yalumba “Antique Tawny�
Arrow’s annual Holiday Tasting! Sunday, November 12, 2006 6:30-8:30 pm Arrow Wine & Spirits Centerville Store Over 75 great wines! $35.00 per person, limited to the first 150 pre-paid reservations. Call the Centerville Store at 433-6778.
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Saturday October 14th from 12 – 4 pm, wine tastings at all three stores are not going to be so regular. There will be TEN winemakers from the Grateful Palate portfolio pouring their wines. They will be split between the three stores. They are: 1) Colin Cooter of Leng’s & Cooter (McLaren Vale) 2) Justin McNamee of Samuel’s Gorge (Mclaren Vale) 3) Colin Kay of Kay Brothers (Mclaren Vale) 4) Mike de la Haye and/or Peter Taylor of Hare’s Chase (Barossa) 5) Peter Scholz of The Willows (Barossa) 6) Kim Johnston of Henry’s Drive and Shirvington (Padthaway & Mclaren Vale) 7) Sam Papasidero of Lillypilly (Riverina) 8) Peter Lynn of Majella (Coonawarra) 9) David Hickinbotham of Paringa (Riverlands) 10) R Winery – Bon Bon (South Australia)
DLM Oakwood Friday, October 13, 2006 5-8pm MacRostie Chardonnay 2005 Frei Brothers Pinot Noir 2002 Coudoulet de Beaucastes Cotes de Rhone 2002 BV Dulcet Reserve blend 2003 La Spinetta Barbera D’Asti 2003 Mystery Bottle!
Saturday, October 14, 2006 1-6pm Australian wine representatives will be pouring and talking about their wines!
Beers: Goose Island Matilda Goose Island Demolition
DLM Washington Square Thursday, October 12, 2006 5-8pm ’05 Crios Torrontes ’05 Gino da Pinot Pinot Noir ’03 Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone ’03 J C Cellars Rockpile Syrah ’03 Chateau Le Bosq St. Estephe Mystery Wine
Saturday, October 14, 2006 12-5pm Awesome Aussie Day! These five Australian wineries will be represented by their owners or winemakers Henry’s Drive (Kim Johnston) Shirvington (Kim Johnston) Paringa (David Hickanbotham) The Withers (Peter Scholz) Leng’s and Cooter (Colin Cooter)
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, October 13, 2006 3-7pm 05 De Wetshof Chardonnay 03 Esterlina Pinot Noir 03 J C Cellars Rockpile Syrah Philip Togni Tanback Hill Cabernet
Saturday, October 14, 2006 12-5pm Rob Gibson from Gibson Wines Bruce Gregory from Majella Cris Ringland & Lisa Weatherell from Marquis Philips Robin Moody from Cape d’Estaing
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, October 13, 2006 Hentley Farm Mallee Sands 2005 Chardonnay Lawson’s Dry Hills 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Walter Hansel 2003 Pinot Noir Hentley Farm Fool’s Bay Shiraz North Star Merlot 2002
Beer: Flying Dog Gonzo Porter
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, 11 - 3pm Powers Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2003 Powers Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Blend Columbia Valley 2003 Powers Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2005
B. R. Scotese
Wednesday, October 18, 2006 4:30 pm
The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
1. Zind-Humbrecht Pinot D’Alsace,
2. Finca El Portillo Pinot Noir,
3. Scott Harvey Barbera,
4. Durban Vin de Table de Vaucluse,
5. Cavalchina Bardolino,
6. Hewitson Miss Harry (GSM),
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, October 14, 2006
L’Auberge Tuesday, October 24, 2006 7 pm There will be a tasting!
These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, October 13th, 5-8 pm ~ Cabernets from Around the Globe Reservations are strongly encouraged, and light appetizers will be served. Root: 1 Cabernet Sauvignon ~ Chile Castle Rock Alexander Valley ~ California 2004 Jim Barry Cover Drive Cab ~ Australia Barnwood 3200’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ~ California Jocelyn Cabernet Sauvignon 2003~ California Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon ~ Napa Valley
Saturday, October 14th 3-6 pm ~ Cal-Itals California grown Italian varietals will be featured.
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 This week: Italian wines that aren’t from Italy Amaicha Torrontes (2005) Mendoza, Argentina; Amaicha Bonarda (2005) Mendoza, Argentina; Tuscan Moon Sangiovese (2005) California
Chin’s Ginger Grill, 965 W. Main Street, Tipp City
Wine Tasting - Thurs. 10-19-06. 7 pm. (937) 667- 6664 Call for reservations
- Pikes Riesling (dry), 2005
- Wishing Tree Chardonnay,2006 3. Rutherglen The
Reunion (MSG),2004 4. Hewitson Miss Harry (GSM),2004
5. TIR na N’OG Grenache,2004
Grapes of Ruth
La Petite France Friday, October 20, 2006 6:30 PM $60 per person “Journey Through France� tasting will be featuring a fine wine selection from Burgundy, the Loire and Rhone River valleys, and Bordeaux.
The dinner menu will feature scallop, endive, watercress, goat cheese & apple salad for the first course, asparagus, prosciutto & gruyere cheese crepe for the 2nd, roasted pork tenderloin with fig chutney and mashed carrots and parsnips for the 3rd, and pumpkin creme brulee for dessert. www.lapetitefrance.biz
The Winery at Versailles (937) 526-3232 Sign up for the Saturday, October 21st, Gourmet Fall Dinner. Dinner starts at 7:30 p.m. Cost is $50 per person and includes dinner, wine and tax.
Sat, Nov 4th, from7 to 9, it will be our Party on the Patio night, with music by Mary Knapke and Friend, fall foods, and for dessert, roasted marshmallows over the fire pit! Warm wine, food, music, door prizes and fun. Cost is $10 per person.
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Making wine in the shadows of the Alps
Elena Walch
I seem to go long stretches on this blog writing about wine but never writing about wines.
Allow me to rectify that a bit over the course of the next few days, starting with the wines of Elena Walch, who makes wine in the Alto Aldige region of northernmost Italy.
We Americans tend to think of Italy in terms of Rome or Venice or Tuscany, but pockets of northern Italy lie in the shadows of the Alps, and some of the Italian citizens there are more likely to be raised speaking German as their native tongue than Italian.
So it was for Elena Walch, who gave up a career as an architect in 1985 to make wines and who now produces an extensive lineup of wines from vineyards in the region.
Walch came to the U.S. this month to accept an award from Wine & Spirits magazine, which named Walch’s winery one of its top 100 wineries of the year for 2006. She extended her stay to visit some American markets, and poured her wines last Saturday at The Winds Wine Cellar in Yellow Springs and at the Inn at Versailles/ Michael Anthony’s at The Inn (corrected from original post).
I caught up with Walch and her wines at a wine luncheon at The Winds, where we tasted a clean and refreshing 2004 Pinot Bianco ($13.99), then moved into a side-by-side comparison of the 2005 Chardonnay ($13.99) and 2004 Gewurtztraminer ($17.99).
The chardonnay was (blessedly) a no-oak version, a trend that seems to be catching on in all corners of the globe, and amen to that. The wine had a steely minerality balanced with clean fruit and is a fine value. The Gewurz was beguiling: a pitch-perfect varietal nose of rose petals and lychee fruit that prepared the tastebuds for an off-dry wine, but then the burst of grapefruit in the mouth was followed by wham! — a distinctly dry finish that made me think, “Whoa, I want another sip of that.”
The 2005 Lagrein ($14.99) Lagrein is a relatively rare grape varietal that is grapy and fruity, sharing some characteristics with gamay. It’s a crowd-pleasing red for autumn. And the 2000 Kastelaz Merlot ($32.99) is ripe and generous (thanks heavens for south-facing slopes, cold-climate or not) and has aged well.
Tasting Elena Walch’s wines were much like discovering a new wine-producing region — and in Italy to boot.
Oh, and by the way, she says the skiing is great, too.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Is Korbel sending Ohioans a message with its new ‘Sweet Rosé?’
I’m still trying to figure out what this says, exactly, about how Korbel regards Ohioans’ taste in wine. Or maybe they took the Wines & Vines story about sweet wines to heart and assume all Ohioans are out for a sugar fix. Tell me what you think.
The California-based sparkling wine producer has chosen Ohio and Michigan to roll out a new product called “Sweet Rosé.” Here’s what the Korbel folks had to say in a press release:
Champagne lovers of Dayton will be among the first in the country to enjoy Korbel’s latest entry: Sweet Rosé. The newest product from Korbel Champagne Cellars of the Russian River Valley of California, Sweet Rosé will be available in Dayton beginning in Mid-October. “Korbel selected Dayton to introduce Sweet Rosé because of the strong following our champagnes have here,� said Gary Heck, Owner and President, Korbel Champagne Cellars. “It’s because of this loyalty that we decided to offer this new, exclusive champagne to consumers in Dayton that have been reliable to our brand.� Korbel Sweet Rosé is a cuvee of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Syrah, Gamay and Chenin Blanc produced in the traditional méthod champenoise, with secondary fermentation in the bottle contributing elegant sparkle and complexity. In describing Korbel Sweet Rosé, Heck noted, “It literally explodes with aromas and flavor. Generously fruity, bubbly and sweet, Korbel Sweet Rosé offers champagne pleasure in a style sure to be popular the year around.� The aromas and flavors of Sweet Rosé are those of fresh-picked cherry, peach and strawberries with just a hint of spice. The generous fruit and sweetness are complimented by fine active bubbles and bright acidity, which makes Sweet Rosé perfect for an aperitif and as an accompaniment to fresh fruit, moderately spicy fare and ripe cheeses. Korbel Sweet Rosé is available exclusively in Ohio and Michigan with only 5,000 cases being produced. It has a suggested retail price of $12.99.
A wine that “literally explodes” in the glass? Literally? Sounds like you’d better wear eye protection before you even think of trying this wine.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Save the dates: DLM and Arrow gear up for holiday wine-and-food events
Mark the dates — Nov. 2 and Nov. 12 — on the calendar, and don’t dally in ordering your tickets. Here’s why:
Dorothy Lane Market will hold its 2006 Food & Wine Show from 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. on Thursday, Nov. 2 at its Springboro store. The cost is $70 — an increase from last year. So why go, especially since last year’s event seemed to me (and to many of you) oversold?
Because the DLM folks say they’ve worked hard to eliminate the crush of bodies, in part by lowering the number of tickets to be sold. Thus, the added urgency to make your reservations in a timely manner.
Here’s what the DLM folks have to say, in their words, followed by the same for the Arrow event 10 days later: (Please click on “Continue reading”)
If you have enjoyed one of our previous eight extravaganza’s, we promise this years to be the best! If you have not been, then save the date, November 2nd, on your calendar and purchase your ticket to assure your reservation! The Show takes place at our Springboro store on both the main floor and the mezzanine level and there is even more room this year. Guests taste wine from Riedel stemware, which is yours to keep, and have the option of tasting wines from over 100 producers from the United States, France, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Germany, Australia, and more with this year a whole table dedicated to Bordeaux alone! We also will have a table of some of the best brews for the beer lover in the group. The food is of course is amazing! Dorothy Lane Market’s chefs have pulled out all the stops and you can sample to your heart’s, ok stomach’s, delight from an array of seafood from our raw bar, smoked fish, Arista Pronto (herb and bacon wrapped roasted pork), Roasted NY Strip Loin or Italian stuffed Turkey breast from our carving station, chicken, king salmon, charcuterie, hot and cold hors d’ oeuvres sushi, cheeses and of course desserts from our famous pastry shop…all with the ambiance of a live jazz trio! Come and enjoy a great evening of DLM’s dual passions of great food and wine. Tickets available at any DLM service booth or wine dept. or online at www.dorothylane.com
Sounds good to me. In fact, sounds delicious.
Ten days later (plenty of time to recover), Arrow Wine & Spirits will hold its Holiday wine show, from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. on Sunday, Nov. 12 at the Centerville store. The price will be $35 per person.
Here’s what the folks at Arrow have to say about their event:
This year’s tasting promises to be better than ever! Over 75 great wines! Catered, again by Kenkel’s Catering. Live Music. $35.00 per person, limited to the first 150 pre-paid reservations. Last year’s tasting was a great success and this one will be even better. To make reservations, call the Centerville Store at 433-6778.
So there you go. Start saving now. Cancel your appointment to have your dog shampooed. Start your exercise program today. And see you in early November, glass in hand.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Researchers find the cause of red-wine headaches — and promise a cure
It’s a comment I’ve heard dozens, maybe hundreds of times since I started writing a wine column 17 years ago: “Oh, I can’t drink red wines. They give me headaches.”
Because my momma raised a smartass, I respond with, “Well, are you chugging an entire bottle by yourself? That would give anybody a headache.”
But that’s not the case. There clearly is something in red wine — or more likely, some things — that many folks’ bodies do not tolerate well.
Now comes word from California that researchers at the University of California Davis believe they have pinpointed the culprit and can help winemakers avoid wine drinkers’ allergic reaction altogether by tweaking the fermentation process, according to KCRA.com. (Hey, if they can breed no-sneeze cats, they ought to be able to produce no-headache red wines, right?)
This has the potential to open up a whole new market of red-wine drinkers. And you know that THOSE words do to a wine marketer’s heart rate.
Do you suffer from red-wine headaches, or know someone who does? Are there any remedies to try while we’re waiting for science to resolve the problem? I’ve heard of folks taking an antihistamine before consuming red wine, which seems extreme (not to mention sleep-inducing).
Thank and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Americans are drinking more wine, thanks to those cute little critter labels
Americans are drinking more wine, and especially more imported wines, according to an analysis by the Adams Wine Handbook.
Per-capita consumption rose to 2.19 gallons per American in 2005, the highest level since 1988. Americans are eating out more and enjoying wine more often with their meals, the study concluded (gee, maybe they’ll get to bring home their leftover wine from restaurants more often, eh?)
Imported wines led the surge, and particularly the “critter labels” such as Australia’s Yellow Tail, sales of which rose by 15.4%, or a million cases, the Adams folks reported.
What’s your prediction of what the next “critter label” will be?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Beam me up, Scotty, and have a glass of wine waiting for me
As we prepare to partake in the joys of the autumnal season during today’s drop-in wine tastings all over town, let us pause and reflect over the following Decanter.com piece that details how two bottles of Star Trek wine fetched more than 10 times their estimate at auction.
The Chateau Picard, from the 2267 vintage, sold for $6,600.
And the bottles were empty.
So go fill your glass today at any of the Saturday tastings detailed in the following wine-tastings list, which comes to us courtesy of a Dayton-based wine listserv (please click on “Continue Reading”):
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, October 6, 2006 4-8 pm 2004 Chateau La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2002 Chateau Le Conseiller 2000 Chateau Fonbadet 2003 Chateau Monbousquet
Saturday, October 7, 2006 1-6 pm 2005 Wishing Tree Chardonnay 1999 Settimo Barolo 2002 Simi Landslide Cabernet 1999 Antinori Pian de Vigne Brunello
Jay’s Italian Cooking Class, Saturday, October 7 Italian Wedding Soup Gnocchi Braised Short Ribs Panna Cotta
The hands on class begins at 10:30 am and should be fun. The cost is $40. Bring your aprons and remember to wear appropriate shoes. If interested, call Jay’s, 222-2892 to RSVP.
Arrow Wine & Spirits – Kettering Saturday, October 7, 2006 11-4 pm 2002 Columbia Crest Cab/Merlot “Two Vine� 2002 Twisted Vine Cab “Napa� 2004 “The Boy� 2005 Edna Valley Chardonnay 2005 Artazuri 2005 Gino Da Pinot
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, October 7, 2006 2002 Nobilo Icon Pinot Gris… 2005 Robert Mondavi Private Select Chardonnay… 2005 Hangtime Pinot Noir… 2005 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere… 2004 Marques de Casa Concha Merlot… 2003 Villa Mt. Eden Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Saturday October 14th from 12 – 4 pm, wine tastings at all three stores are not going to be so regular. There will be TEN winemakers from the Grateful Palate portfolio pouring their wines. They will be split between the three stores. They are: 1) Colin Cooter of Leng’s & Cooter (McLaren Vale) 2) Justin McNamee of Samuel’s Gorge (Mclaren Vale) 3) Colin Kay of Kay Brothers (Mclaren Vale) 4) Mike de la Haye and/or Peter Taylor of Hare’s Chase (Barossa) 5) Peter Scholz of The Willows (Barossa) 6) Kim Johnston of Henry’s Drive and Shirvington (Padthaway & Mclaren Vale) 7) Sam Papasidero of Lillypilly (Riverina) 8) Peter Lynn of Majella (Coonawarra) 9) David Hickinbotham of Paringa (Riverlands) 10) R Winery – Bon Bon (South Australia)
DLM Oakwood Friday, October 6, 2006 5-8pm Abymes Savoie 2004 Houghton Chardonnay 2004 Cartlidge & Brown Pinot Noir 2005 Edmund St. John Bone Jolly 2004 Geyser Peak Cabernet 2003
Saturday, October 7, 2006 1-6pm ThiberParisse Macon Prisse 2005 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir 2004 C. G. D’Arie Zinfandel 2004 Tyrus Evans Syrah 2003 Bravante Vineyard Cabernet 2002 Torbreck The Factor 2003 Bonus Bottles
Beers: Aspall Dry English Draft Cider Great Lakes Nosferatu
DLM Washington Square Saturday, October 7, 2006 12-5pm 2005 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2005 San Pietro Pinot Grigio 2004 Toscolo Chianti 2004 Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino 2001 Giacomo Grimaldi Barbera d’Alba Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, October 6, 2006 3-7pm 2003 Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Chardonnay 2003 M.Consentino Merlot 2002 Penny’s Hill Shiraz 2002 Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon
Saturday, October 7, 2006 12-5pm 2004 Goisot Bourgogne Aligote 2004 Toscolo Chianti 2001 Chateau La Fleur Peyrabon 2002 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, October 6, 2006 Jana 2005 Riesling Cline Viognier A by Acacia Chardonnay Robert Hall 2003 Rhone du Robles Cline 2003 Cool Climate Syrah Rabbit Ridge 2003 Limited Paso Reserve Yorkville 2004 Petit Verdot
Food: Bolivian Rotisserie Chicken
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market October 7, 2006 Visit the Market for their 2nd Annual Gear Fest. Beer and Wine are being served.
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, October 13, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays! Scotese’s will be tasting the wines of the CG di Arie Winery, http://www.cgdiarie.com/the_project.html
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
L’Auberge Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7 pm there will be a tasting! L’Auberge will be tasting wines from the French regions of Burgundy and Rhone.
These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, October 6th, 7 pm ~ Pinot Noirs The Lion Group presents five fabulous Pinot Noirs and a surprise bonus wine!. Reservations are strongly encouraged. 2005 Fess Parker Parker Station ~ $12.99 2004 Chumeia Pinot Noir ~ $16.99 2003 Clos Pegase Pinot Noir ~ $30.99 2003 Byron Pinot Noir ~ $25.99 2004 Ponzi Pinot Noir
Saturday, October 7th, 3-6 pm ~ Wines from the Purple Wine Company
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Napa River Chardonnay (2004) Napa Valley; Napa River Merlot (2003) Napa Valley; Napa River Cabernet Sauvignon (2003) Napa Valley
Grapes of Ruth Tuesday October 10, 6 - 8 pm Introduction to Wine Tasting Class This class will teach you about wine tasting terminology, wine production and wine tasting, fee is $20.00 and reservations are required. phone number ( 937 748-3807)
La Petite France Friday, October 20, 2006 6:30 PM $60 per person “Journey Through France� tasting will be featuring a fine wine selection from Burgundy, the Loire and Rhone River valleys, and Bordeaux.
The dinner menu will feature scallop, endive, watercress, goat cheese & apple salad for the first course, asparagus, prosciutto & gruyere cheese crepe for the 2nd, roasted pork tenderloin with fig chutney and mashed carrots and parsnips for the 3rd, and pumpkin creme brulee for dessert. www.lapetitefrance.biz
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Some restaurants blow their chance to take advantage of wine doggy-bag law
Why in the world wouldn’t every fine-dining restaurant in Ohio rush to take advantage of the new state law that took effect two weeks ago that allows diners to take home their leftover wine in doggy bags?
I’m left pondering that question after going “Oh-for-two� in my efforts to enjoy the benefits of the new law.
Of course, both of my attempts came at chain restaurants:
(Please click on “continue reading” below…)
Brio Tuscan Grille and The Cheesecake Factory, both in The Greene, turned me down cold. But based on the comments of other Dayton-area diners on Uncorked (www.daytondailynews.com/wineblog), locally owned, independent restaurants have embraced the law with greater gusto.
And why not? Allowing diners to take home leftover wine helps restaurants sell more wine. Customers get a greater variety, since only a handful of wines are available by the glass and the bottle list is usually far more extensive. And the practice encourages moderation: diners will not feel compelled to finish off a bottle of pricey wine to avoid being wasteful. They can take the wine with them and enjoy it the next day — or even later that night — at home.
A win-win. A no-brainer. Or so it seems.
Yet the two chains I visited treat the new law like leprosy. That’s their right — the new law does not require restaurants to allow their guests to take home wine. But I certainly think such a refusal puts a restaurant at a competitive disadvantage.
Howard Gordon, the marketing vice president for California-based Cheesecake Factory (check out my review of the restaurant from today’s DDN), is himself quite a wine enthusiast, and he says the chain is, in effect, working on it and may soon allow leftover wine to be taken home. A manager at Brio, which is based in Columbus, likewise said his chain may re-examine the policy.
But this comes a day late and a dollar short. The “merlot-to-go� legislation was widely publicized when it was signed by Gov. Taft in June, and restaurants had 90 days to gear up before the law took effect.
There may have been some initial confusion over the law’s requirement that the restaurants reseal bottles “in such a manner that it is visibly apparent if the bottle has been subsequently opened or tampered with.� But several businesses that specialize in wine to-go bags stepped in quickly. The Ohio Restaurant Association entered into a partnership in September with California-based WineDoggyBag.com to become its “exclusive supplier� of wine doggy bags. Restaurant owners and managers wouldn’t have to break a sweat to find other alternatives from businesses such as Togobrand.com and Beerandwinespecialists.com, both of which have special deals going on for Ohio restaurants.
Those restaurants that embraced the opportunity are reaping benefits. Mary Kay Smith, co-proprietor of The Winds, said she has seen a greater willingness of customers to buy a bottle of wine at lunchtime, drink a glass with their midday meal, then take home the leftovers for their dinner that night. In an earlier comment on this blog, Smith indicated she’s excited about the new law: “Finally, customers are allowed to be grownups and take home what they paid for,� she wrote.
Exactly.
Too bad not everyone got that message.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
PS Here’s what the new wine-to-go law says: Diners can take home wine they’ve purchased at restaurants if the restaurants agree and if:
(1) The opened bottle of wine is securely resealed by the permit holder or an employee of the permit holder before the bottle is removed from the premises. The bottle must be secured in such a manner that it is visibly apparent if the bottle has been subsequently opened or tampered with. (2) The opened bottle of wine that is resealed is stored in the trunk of a motor vehicle or, if the motor vehicle does not have a trunk, behind the last upright seat or in an area not normally occupied by the driver or passengers and not easily accessible by the driver.Tweet
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New York Times food and wine writer R.W. Apple dies
No Hollywood filmmaker could script a movie that would come close to rivaling the life of R.W. “Johnny” Apple Jr., the legendary New York Times journalist. Mr. Apple died Wednesday of cancer. He was 71.
Here’s the lede and a snippet of the New York Times obituary story:
R. W. Apple Jr., who in more than 40 years as a correspondent and editor at The New York Times wrote from more than 100 countries about war and revolution, politics and government, food and drink, and the revenge of living well, died yesterday in Washington. He was 71. …. With his Dickensian byline, Churchillian brio and Falstaffian appetites, Mr. Apple, who was known as Johnny, was a singular presence at The Times almost from the moment he joined the metropolitan staff in 1963. He remained a colorful figure as new generations of journalists around him grew more pallid, and his encyclopedic knowledge, grace of expression — and above all his expense account — were the envy of his competitors, imitators and peers.
His final piece for the Times was scheduled to run later this year, but the newspaper moved up its publication date in light of their correspondent’s death and published the piece headlined Global Gourmand today.
For another take, read the Reuters News Service story on Mr. Apple’s passing.
By any measure, a life well lived …
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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What REALLY goes on behind those tasting room doors …
Your Uncorked author has written a freelance story entitled “What’s So Bad About Sweet Wine?” for a publication called Wines and Vines.
I interviewed winemakers in Colorado, Missouri and Ohio for the piece. Here’s an excerpt:
Each month, consumer publications such as Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate publish pages upon pages of reviews of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and other dry wines from the world’s most prestigious growing regions. And every month, wineries in every other nook and cranny of America (and some in the “prestige” appellations as well) tally up their sales sheets and count their profits from bottles whose contents bear little resemblance to those most-reviewed wines—and not just because of a difference in terroir. It’s because they’re sweet.
To take a look at the story, click here.
And as usual, there is a Dayton-area connection, not only in the story, but behind it as well. The editor of California-based Wines and Vines is Jim Gordon, a native of West Milton in Miami County, whose family still resides in various locales around the Miami Valley.
Gordon spent more than a decade with Wine Spectator magazine, and also workd for Wine Country Living magazine and served as an “editor-at-large” for eVineyard, an online wine retailer that sold wine in Ohio and later merged into what is now, I believe, wine.com.
Are you a fan of sweet wines, or do you know friends and relatives who are? I started my wine journey with Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill but don’t much care for the sweet wines, often made from native American grapes, that are made by Ohio wine producers. Still, I love a semi-dry riesling whether it’s from Germany, Ohio or Washington State. And those late-harvest dessert wines and ice wines …. Mmmmm.
Doniella Winchell, executive director of the Ohio Wine Producers Association, summed it up best in the Wines and Vines story: “The industry at large looks down on sweet wines, but we do so at our peril.”
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Wine Spectator muffs the punt again
So, I get my Wine Spectator in the mail — the Oct. 31 edition entitled “Great Wine Values” — and a question comes to mind in light of my post two weeks ago entitled “The letter Wine Spectator refused to publish?”
I wonder what letters to the editor the Spectator chose to run rather than the one Nancy Bentley sent from Kinkead Ridge?
You’ll recall that Nancy posed some rather provocative questions of the Spectator in a well-written submission about why the magazine left out midwestern wines from a piece that featured midwestern food. Nancy got nothing but a routine response thanking her for her submission and inviting her to submit wines to the Spectator for sampling and review, even though the tasting schedule the magazine sent to her mapping out the wine regions that will be featured in upcoming tasting reports over the next hundred years or so came about as close to Ohio as Shanghai, China.
First of all, the almighty Spectator devoted precious little space to reader feedback in this particular issue, which weighed in at a hefty 172 pages. In fact, it begrudgingly gave two-thirds of a page to reader letters. A full page, mind you, was allocated to a “house ad” (page 101) that proclaims “Wine Spectator is like a good friend who knows a lot about wine. Subscribe to Wine Spectator. It will be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”
And only two-thirds of a page to reader letters? Sure sounds like a one-way friendship to me.
And what sterling prose made the cut and was published in the letters column? Well, one explains the difference between “high tea” and “afternoon tea.” Another letter points out that the state of Wisconsin was overlooked for its cranberry production.
You get the idea.
These letters were picked over Nancy Bentley’s?
Good heavens, can’t we expect better from America’s largest-circulation consumer wine publication?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Welcoming a new blogger
Today we warmly welcome a new blogger — or blogging team — to the blogosphere: Dinner with Chuck and Ann, written by Ann Boucher (and her husband Chuck) of Serendipity Wine Shop. The inaugural piece is a tribute to a mentor of Ann’s who passed away last week, and it is well worth the read.
Here’s how Ann introduced the new blog in an email to friends and customers:
Chuck and I are very happy to announce the creation of our blog, Dinner with Chuck and Ann. Although, loosely associated with our business, Serendipity Wine Shop, it is not about promoting the company. As its name implies, it is simply an open forum for people (and us) to wax about life. It is our desire to create an intimate space, similar to a great dinner party, where we can all practice the dying art of “conversation,â€? albeit in cyberspace. Topics of discussion can be as varied and wide ranging as anyone wishes—fine dining, cooking, wine, music, books, gardening, wine making, fishing, history… etc. We have diverse and eclectic interests, and thankfully, wonderful friends fitting the same description! Do you wish to heap praise on a talented and deserving restaurateur? Or perhaps, share a piece of music that has really moved you. Or maybe, you are bursting with pride at your first successful preparation of pâté en croûte, South Carolina pulled-pork or pad thai? Then please, let us all in on it! To be a guest author, simply e-mail your entry to annboucher@serendipitywineshop.com , and we will post it. Comments, are of course, also encouraged and happily accepted. We do, however, reserve the right to determine the appropriateness of any and all material received. As we are all adults (right?), I’m confident Chuck and I will have little cause to exercise our editorial prerogative. Our first entry is a tribute to Gene Parrino, Vice-president of Vintage Wine Distributor, who passed away last week. In honor of Gene, we are contributing 5% of Serendipity profits for the month of October to his favorite charity, The Bellflower Center for Prevention of Child Abuse. Visit the blog at: http://blog.serendipitywineshop.com/ We hope you enjoy the blog and we look forward to your comments and/or participation as a guest author, commentator, or silent observer. To Life!
To life indeed. Chuck and Ann, welcome to the blogosphere, and for anybody else thinking about taking the plunge: C’mon in, the water’s warm — and the riesling’s cold.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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