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December 2006
Best ways to cure a hangover — not that you would ever NEED to, of course
Today we pre-emptively and proactively offer up some advice that you most certainly will not need: how to avoid a hangover, or if it’s “Oops, too late for that,” advice on how to cure a hangover.
And for that, we turn to the folks at WebMD, who offer us an entry entitled Hangover Helpers along with a companion piece entitled Strategies for a Hangover-Free Holiday Season.
Both articles were reviewed by medical doctors, which we should find ever-so-reassuring, especially since we discovered last week how savvy some physicians are in their investment decisions.
Of all the advice I’ve heard and read, I still think the best suggestion is to drink water while you’re consuming alcohol. And the most overrated advice? Those who say if you drink “clear” spirits such as vodka and gin rather than scotch or whiskey (or white wine instead of red) that you won’t get a hangover. There may be a grain of truth in there somewhere, but I think it’s mostly rubbish.
What’s YOUR favorite home remedy for a hangover?
So an early Happy New Year to you, and cheers! In moderation, of course …
Mark Fisher
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Holiday tastings haul out the Big Guns
Dom Perignon? (Yawn) Araujo Eisele Cabernet? (Ho-hum). Just another weekend here in wine country, AKA Dayton, Ohio. Note that some stores are not having their regular tastings until after the holidays (sigh).
As usual, this list comes to Uncorked via the heroic efforts of a local wine listserv, and we do give thanks for that. click on “continue reading” to access the full wine-tastings list, which has grown (again) to include Pacchia’s in the Oregon District … Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jays Kitchen Door
Friday, December 29, 2006 4-8 pm NV Henry O Sparkling wine 1998 Dom Perignon 2003 King’s Estate Pinot Noir 2002 Northstar Merlot 2002 Gaja Magari 2000 Opus One
Saturday, December 30, 2006 1-6 pm 2003 Elk Cove Pinot Noir 2002 Merryvale Reserve Merlot 2002 Araujo Eisele Cabernet
Jays will be open for lunch on Friday, December 29.
Arrow – Kettering Arrow Kettering will resume tastings Saturday, January 6, 2007
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood
Friday, December 29, 2006 5-8pm G. H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Champagne Verget de Sud 2005 Domaine Olivier Pinot Noir 2004 Abbona Dogliani Barbaresco 1996 Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Brown Fuzzy Bag!
No tasting on Saturday, December 30, 2006
DLM Washington Square Thursday December 21, 2006 5-8 pm Twee Jonge Gezellen Brut Rose Melville Viognier Fattoria di Fiano Chianti Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Smith Haut Lafitte Mystery Wine!
DLM Washington Square will not have their usual Saturday tasting December 30th. The Saturday tastings will be back the first Saturday of January. The staff appreciates your understanding!
Dorothy Lane Springboro No tasting on Friday, December 29, 2006 3-7pm No tasting on Saturday, December 30, 2006
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wine Tasting Menu Thursday, December 28-Thursday, January 4th. Closed New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day and Tuesday, January 2nd Casteller Cava Rene Geoffroy Rose-yes, for real! Oyster Bay 2006 Sauvignon Blanc La Linda 2005 Chardonnay La Linda 2004 Malbec d’Arenburg 2004 Footbolt Shiraz Derbes 2002 Les Pinots Domaine Font de Michelle 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape
On Tap: St. Bernardus
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, December 30 Toast in the New Year from 10AM to 2PM with a variety of sparkling wine and champagnes from around the world. They will have Champagnes and Blanc de Blancs from France, sparkling wines from Italy, Russia and California.
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, January 3, 2007 4:30 pm
DiSalvos Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Delis Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, December 30, 2006 11 am – 5 pm Gezeffen Brut Rosé… G. H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut Champagne… 2004 Houghton Shiraz… 2002 Bodegas Weinert Carrascal… 2002 Page Cellars Napa Valley Red Blend… 2003 Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Trader Joe’s, Town & Country Kettering Special Hours on Sunday for New Year’s Eve: Store open 9 to 6, wine tasting 2 to 5. Tasting on Tuesday 6-8. Schloss Biebrich Sekt sparkling (NV) Germany; Barefoot Bubbly (NV) California; Edition Maximillien Kabinett Riesling (2005) Rheingau, Germany; Penfolds Winemaker’s Reserve Shiraz (2001) South Australia.
LAuberge No tastings until January 9, 2007
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Thursday, December 28th, 5-8 pm ~ Sparklings
Friday, December 29th, 7 pm ~ Sparklings & Champagne Montesel Extra Dry Prosecco Marques de Gelida Brut Cava Llopart Reserva Rose Brut Cava Duval-Leroy Brut Champagne Elio Perrone Moscato d’Asti Clarte
Saturday, December 30th, 3-6 pm ~ Wines of Francis Ford Coppola, Diamond Collection, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Claret
Winds Café Yellow Springs Call 937-767-9441 to make reservations for events. Saturday, December 30th, 2006 New Year Eves Dinner
Wine Classes Saturday, January 27, 2007 and February 3, 2007 3 pm Wine 101 Saturday, March 3, 2007 and March 10, 2007 3 pm Wine 201
El Meson “A Taste of the World” at El Meson, 903 East Dixie Drive, West Carrollton, Ohio 45449 (937) 859-8229, Fax (937) 859-8220, www.ElMeson.Net El Meson will be closed January 1- 11th, re-opening on Friday January 12, 2007. Tapa and wine pairings will resume on Tuesday, January 16th.
The Wine Gallery & Cafe 424 East Third Street Dayton, Ohio 45402 937-224-WINE
December 30, 2006 from Noon to 1AM will pour a variety of sparkling wine and Champagnes from the Louve Flight. This flight consists of sparkling wines and Champagnes from around the globe. Served by the glass and bottle. As a bonus, there will be several other specials for just this event. Live music from 7PM to 9PM.
Pacchia Wine Tasting every Thursday will feature at least 6 wines to taste, discuss, and enjoy from 6:00 pm to 8:00 pm. When your tasting is finished, you will receive a credit for the $10 fee applied to the purchase of any dinner entrée in Pacchia Prima or any bill of $20 or more in the café. Live music!
THURSDAY, December 28 Pillar Box White $10.99 Clean Slate Riesling $10.99 Marquis Phillips Merlot $15.99 Three Rings Shiraz $18.99 Charles Lafitte Brut Champagne
TomKatz Wine Tasting Wednesdays Time: 5:00 - 7:00 p.m. Phone: 937-743-8111 Address: S.R. 73 just East of I75
La Petite France 3177 Glendate-Milford Road Cincinnati, Ohio www.lapetitefrance.biz Call 513-733-8383 for information on their New Year Eve dinner.
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Battle of the Bubblies produces one big bargain
My newspaper’s web site has posted a story I wrote for tomorrow morning’s (Friday’s) newspaper entitled Battle of the Bubbles: Six-champagne taste-off discovers surprises, bargains. The results of the comparative tasting were a surprise to me, and prove you don’t have to spend a lot to get a fine bottle of sparkling wine.
But if you DO want to spend a lot, the 1988 Pol Roger Cuvee Winston Churchill that was offered up for sampling last night at Dorothy Lane Market’s Champagne tasting was simply stunning …
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Wine retailers across America could learn a thing or two …
Some wine retailers shut down their regular drop-in tastings this time of year, citing lack of parking or a staff stretched thin by the holiday crush of shoppers. All of which are very good reasons, I’m sure. If I were running a wine shop and had to grapple with those obstacles, perhaps I’d do the same.
But I’m not a wine retailer. I’m a wine consumer, an enthusiast. Like many others, I take vacation days over the holiday season, which, by definition, is a rather festive, celebratory time.
So from where I sit, this is exactly the time of year to NOT be cancelling wine tastings, in my sometimes-humble opinion.
Enter Dorothy Lane Market, which — for those of you who do not live in the nirvana that is Dayton, Ohio — is a locally owned chain of three upscale grocery stores, all of which host drop-in wine tastings and have extensive wine departments.
Their stores have indeed canceled some of their regular drop-in tastings, but tonight (on Wednesday, 12-27-06) from 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., DLM’s Oakwood store is making up for those cancellations a bit by inviting folks to drop in on an intriguing Champagne tasting.
They’ll start with an array of Champagnes as in the usual tasting, but as bottles are drained, they’ll then allow those in attendance to help choose what gets uncorked next. The store’s wine manager, George Punter, has scoured the cellars and come up with a “stock list” that includes the likes of Krug, Bollinger, Veuve Clicquot, Duval-Leroy, Taittinger — you get the idea.
Samples of these luxury sparklers won’t be cheap — many will be in the $12 to $17-per-taste range, depending on the retail price of the bottle — but this is quite an opportunity to taste some of the world’s most prestigious bubblies without buying a full bottle. Why save those holiday bonuses to pay next month’s bills when there is Champagne to be sampled?
This strikes me as a darn fine idea for a mid-week, holiday-week, pre-New-Year’s Eve special event for those of us who were gettin’ a little parched.
DLM Oakwood, anytime between 5:30 and 8:30 tonight. Wine enthusiasts, take heed.
Heck, wine retailers elsewhere, take heed.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Happy Holidays to US!
Uncorked readers: Have a great Christmas, a fine holiday weekend … and thank you VERY much for reading! I’ll be back Tuesday or Wednesday with a fun comparative tasting of Champagnes and sparkling wines. Until then … Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Sweet-talking Brits use wine, booze to scam American doctors
They may be able to cure others, but some doctors apparently can’t inoculate themselves from diseases such as ignorance and greed.
That’s the message from an astonishing story this morning out of London involving a fraudulent wine-and-spirits scam which targeted American physicians — quite successfully, it appears.
Those “victimized” by the scam were, in some cases, “guaranteed returns of 40 percent in as little as three months … (and then) persuaded to roll returns into ever bigger and better deals,” according to this story from Decanter.com.
And it all revolved around wine and liquor. Amazing.
While the perpetrators sweet-talked gullible Americans into “investing” ever-larger sums of money in their little Ponzi scheme, they were lavishing themselves with annual “salaries” as high as $1.7 million, Decanter.com reports. But there apparently was no shortage of new investors.
Aren’t doctors supposed to be … oh, I don’t know, what’s the word? …. smarter than that?
Didn’t they listen when their mothers told them, “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is?”
Apparently not.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Another chance to taste a wine for the ages
Am I reading this right? Does Jay’s really intend to offer the 1982 Chateau Latour for tasting tonight? An ‘82??
Yowzah.
I’m sure the price of a taste will be quite high, but as I mentioned last week with the Dom Perignon, these are opportunities to taste legendary wines that would be impossible for most of us to even contemplate buying by the bottle. And, of course, there will be less expensive options on the tasting bar as well.
Note there are several cancellations in the coming days and weekends as some (but not all …) wine shops and grocers devote their staff and parking spots to holiday shoppers rather than wine-tasters. (Sigh.)
Enjoy, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jays Kitchen Door
Friday, December 22, 2006 4-8 pm NV Egly Ouriet Grand Cru Traditional Brut 2004 Louis Latour Grand Ardeche 2004 Liberty School Cabernet 2003 Chateau Faugeres 1998 Gros Frere et Soeur Richebourg 1982 Chateau Latour
Saturday, December 23, 2006 1-6 pm Perrier Jouet Brut 2003 Catena Malbec 2002 Termanthia Numanthia 2000 Caymus Special Select Cabernet
Jays will be open for lunch Friday, December 22 and on Friday, December 29.
Arrow – Kettering Arrow Kettering will resume tastings Saturday, January 6, 2007
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood
Wednesday, December 27th from 5:30 – 8:30 Oakwood DLM will have a Champagne tasting accompanied by hors d oeuvres
Friday, December 22, 2006 5-8pm It’s Jaci’s birthday and she raided the temperature control cooler for a great selection of red wines! Wish her a Happy Birthday and try some one of a kind wines!
No tasting on Saturday, December 23, 2006
DLM Washington Square
Thursday December 21, 2006 5-8 pm Vin Fou Brut 2003 Louis Jadot Meursault 2003 Domaine de Barroubio Minervois 2004 Santi Valpolicella 2003 Chateau La Garde Pessac-Leognan Mystery Wine!
Saturday December 23 and Saturday December 30, 2006
DLM Washington Square will not have their usual Saturday tastings December 22 and 30th. The Thursday tastings willcontinue and will the Saturday tastings will be back the first Saturday of January. The staff appreciates your understanding!
Dorothy Lane SpringboroFriday, December 22, 2006 3-7pm
04 Santi Pinot Grigio 04 Le Fonti Sangiovese 04 Le Fonti Chianti 03 La Gerla Rosso di Montalcino No tastings on Saturday Dec. 23 or Dec. 30
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wine Tasting Menu Thursday, December 21st-Thursday, December 28th. Holiday Hours-Closed Christmas Eve & Christmas Day. Closed New Year’s Eve, New Year’s Day and Tuesday, January 2nd
St Christopher Gluwein N.V. J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux Blanc de Blanc Brut Jean Baptiste Adam 2004 Reserve Pinot Gris Luigi Bosca 2004 La Linda Rose Carmody McKnight 2005 Day in the Country Chardonnay Delectus 2001 Merlot A.S. Kikken Red Ramey 2004 Claret
Beer: New Holland Blue Goat Doppelbock Food: Oyster Shooters and Mini open-faced Smoked Chicken Muffalettas
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, December 23
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, December 27, 2006 4:30 pm Wines from the winery of Hayman and Hill.
DiSalvos Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Delis Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd
Saturday, December 23, 2006 11 am – 5 pm 2004 Gundlach Bundschu Gewurtztraminer… 2002 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir… 2000 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas… 2005 Rosenblum San Francisco Zinfandel… 2004 Rosenblum Rockpile Zinfandel… 2003 Bennett Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Trader Joes, Town & Country Kettering Holiday Hours - closing at 6pm on Christmas Eve! No tasting on Sunday! Tasting Friday 2-6 and Tuesday 6-8 Monasteriolo Brut (NV) Cava, Spain; Almond Creek Sparkling Wine (NV) California; Marchesi de Montecristo Nerello del Bastardo (2000) 100% Nebbiolo Vino da Tavolo, Italy; Quarles Harris Ruby (NV) Porto, Portugal.
LAuberge No tastings until January 9, 2007
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Winds Café Yellow Springs Call 937-767-9441 to make reservations for events. Saturday, December 30th, 2006 New Year Eves Dinner
Wine Classes Saturday, January 27, 2007 and February 3, 2007 3 pm Wine 101 Saturday, March 3, 2007 and March 10, 2007 3 pm Wine 201
El Meson
Tuesday, December 26, 5-9PM “A Taste of the World” at El Meson, 903 East Dixie Drive, West Carrollton, Ohio 45449 (937) 859-8229, Fax (937) 859-8220, www.ElMeson.Net Wine and Tapas Pairings
The Wine Gallery & Cafe 424 East Third Street Dayton, Ohio 45402 937-224-WINE
TomKatz Wine Tasting Wednesday, December 27 Time: 5:00 - 7:00 p.m. Phone: 937-743-8111 Address: S.R. 73 just East of I75
La Petite France 3177 Glendate-Milford Road Cincinnati, Ohio www.lapetitefrance.biz Call 513-733-8383 for information.
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Ripoff or coincidence? YOU be the judge
Let’s call this one, “Of all the fonts in the world” …
Fred Franzia — he of Bronco Wine Co. and “Two-Buck Chuck” fame — is at it again, this time releasing a Santa Barbara County wine with a label 
that has some similarities to the label of an existing — and more prestigious and expensive — Santa Barbara winery
, according to an article in the San Francisco Chronicle entitled Bronco’s ‘copycat’ label miffs Santa Barbara Winery.
Bronco Wine Co. spokesman Harvey Posert told the Chronicle, “If you look at the labels, they’re really not alike.” What do YOU think?
The folks at Santa Barbara Winery certainly see things a bit differently. Its marketing director, Craig Addis, said the Bronco label “misleads the consumer and taints Santa Barbara Winery’s hard-earned reputation for top flight chardonnays,” according to this Santa Barbara Daily Sound story.
For the “straight spin” of Bronco’s press release touting their new wine’s rollout, link to this WineBusiness.com link.
The image of the Santa Barbara Landing label above comes from WineBusiness.com, while the label of Santa Barbara Winery comes from AppellationAmerica.com.
And a tip of the cap to Uncorked reader and wine-guy Matt Perrone for the heads-up on this little brouhaha.
So …. ripoff or coincidence?
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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A cigar that ‘complements’ wine? Yeah, and monkeys fly out of my …
Decanter.com reports that a South African wine producer has created “the world’s first cigar designed specifically to complement the flavors of fine red wines.”
To which I say, HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
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Local wine-tasting group breaks out the Big Reds
I’m sneakin’ up to Columbus today to have lunch with an old college roommate and perhaps nose around a wine shop or two. So I’ll allow Uncorked to be hijacked today by local wine enthusiast Niki, who is part of a wine-tasting group that gathers every few weeks to pop some corks and explore the wonders of fermentation. This time around, their theme was “Big Reds” — and as you’ll see, the wines lived up to their billing. Click on “Continue Reading” for more about Niki’s tasting …. thanks for reading, and cheers!
Big Reds (by Niki)
“The Motley Cru, a local group of wine enthusiasts, met Saturday to taste Big Reds. Each of the eight members brought a big red wine to share, which was brown-bagged for a semi-blind tasting (no, I don’t mean the effects of the alcohol, I mean each person knew his or her wine and a few of us knew our spouse’s wine).
Wines were poured in two flights, of five and four wines—somehow the eight of us ended up with nine wines to taste. Those of us who enjoy such games wrote our impressions of the wines and tried to guess the variety. After we had some time to study both flights, we discussed the wines and offered our guesses. Obviously, we need to continue our studies, as none of us were able to identify more than two of the wines. I correctly identified the two Petite Sirahs, but then, I knew we brought two Petite Sirahs. Here are the wines in the order tasted, prices listed are upon purchase and are guesstimates in some cases:
2003 Koonunga Hills Shiraz, SE Australia. Dark crimson, clear rim, slightly gritty tannins, black cherry flavors, not jammy but definitely fruity. Price unknown (gift).
2002 Cyrus, Napa CA, 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec, 1% Petite Verdot. Dark fruit with apple notes. This was voted wine of the night by 3 members, the most votes for WOTN of any of the lineup. Price approximately $40.
2001 Treana, Napa CA. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. This smelled like horse sweat at first, then band-aids. Eventually the brett seemed to blow off, and some cassis and cherries peeked through the funk. Price approximately $35.
2003 Montoya. CA, Cabernet Sauvignon. Not too oaky, lots of cassis. This won the Thunderbird Award (first wine drained). Good quality-price ratio at $15.
2003 Clos de la Siete, Mendoza, Argentina, 40% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 20% Merlot. This Michel Rolland wine is a guilty pleasure, with sweet oak and deep fruit. Two votes for WOTN. About $16.
2000 Greg Norman Reserve Shiraz, Padthaway Australia. One vote for WOTN, three votes for second place, and the second place winner of the Thunderbird Award. Around $55.
2000 Ridge York Petite Sirah, CA. My personal wine of the night. Dark fruit, good acid, fine-grained tannins. Had that Paul Draper perfume that makes Ridge wines so compelling. I don’t remember what I paid for this, but probably not more than $25.
2000 Madrigal Petite Sirah, Napa, CA. A bit of rough trade, but with a good essence. Gritty tannins, black cherries, plums, and vanilla. Needs time. About $30.
2002 Edmund St John Syrah, “The Shadow”, CA. Dark fruit, plums, cherries, spice, a touch of earth, some pepper, concentrated and complex. About $14, and my second favorite of the night.
A note about the Cru; some of us are fairly serious about learning as much about wine as possible, but others (as a wine server in Texas once told me) just want to learn a little and drink a lot of wine!”
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Restaurants want to sell you more wine — and they’re learning how
Research conducted through Cornell University and the University of Houston has come up with some strategies for restaurants to sell more wine. See if you agree. A summary of the research can be found at this Wines & Vines piece. And there’s also this news release from Cornell. The full report is available for download from Cornell’s Center for Hospitality Research; free registration is required.
Here are the highlights, courtesy of Wines & Vines:
1. More recommendations equal more wine sales. Promoting five wines increased sales of the promoted wines by 39%, without “cannibalizing” other wine sales.
Suggested wine and food pairings are effective, but only in small doses. More than three wine recommendations “and people give up,” according to study co-author Collin Payne, Ph.D., a research psychologist at Cornell.
Tasting portions sell: Two-ounce tasting portions increased sales by 18-47%.
Promotions can cannibalize: Between 69-87% in sales of promoted wines came from other wines that patrons would have ordered anyway. The authors recommend promoting higher-margin wines, mid-priced or above, and avoiding margin-cutting price promotions.
Hmmm. “promote higher-margin wines.” Does that mean what I think it means?
What do YOU think of the recommendations?
As an aside, one of the study’s authors is Glenn Cordua, founder and director of the Wine and Spirits Institute at the University of Houston, who also happens to be one of the chief organizers of the wine competition for the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo, for which I served as a judge last month. I spent some time talking with Cordua, who has founded and operated several restaurants. The guy knows the business (and his wines too).
Thanks to WineBusiness.com for tipping me off to this story.
And as always, thanks for reading — and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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‘Cheapskate’ discussion turns combustible
If you read Uncorked the way that I read blogs — checking out the most recent entry, then moving on — you’ve missed a robust and fascinating exchange that smoldered over several days between a winemaker named David and some of his fellow Ohio wine industry folks, as well as some folks who sell and drink wine. The entry entitled Why don’t cheapskate Ohioans spend more on wine? has generated 21 comments — and no small amount of heat.
The initial comments to David’s assertion that Ohioans are a bunch of cheapskates can be summed up by Ann Boucher’s: “When there is such an abundance of really good wine available to the Ohio wine consumer under $20 a bottle, why pay more? Maybe Ohio consumers aren’t cheap, just smart.”
Then David waded into the fray again — and things got interesting:
Wow — I’m the winemaker who’s generated all this discussion. To answer your question I live and work inside and outside of Ohio. Though this is a good reason why I won’t spend too much time in Ohio because of these attacks on the perceived cultural elites. But this begs the question. There is not much good wine quality under $12. I love spanish and italian wines but these good quality wines under 12 or 15 dollars have largely dried up. Wine production expenses have gone up everywhere in the world. What’s really disturbing is since wine consumers in Ohio are so obsessed with value they’ve undermined the Ohio wine industry. Since it’s impossible to produce vinifera wines under $10 for most wineries in Ohio they have to adulterate the wines such as diluting the wines with water and then again with low quality labrusca wine to get the price down (something they would never admit but I know they do as an insider). They end up with pretty bad wines as a result, and it’s a shame. As a wine grower myself in Ohio the quality coming out of the vineyard has been superb but that quality can’t be had for under 10 dollars a bottle. I think the cheapness of many Ohio wine consumers is really holding the Ohio wine industry back and these constant attacks on cultural elites doesn’t help. You just end up making yourself a cultural un-elite. Ohio has easily some of the best wine-growing terroirs in the country but I’ve really begun to believe it’s the Ohio wine consumers holding it back in their insistence on cheap and sweet wines.
Gasoline, meet flame. The comments about Ohio winemakers somehow diluting or adulterating their wines by adding “labrusca” juice (from grapes such as niagara or catawba) to their “vinifera” juice (chardonnay, cabernet franc, riesling are examples of vinifera grapes) drew this response from a reader who signed herself “In the Know:”
Oh my goodness — not sure who the supposed ‘insider’ winemaker is who believes Ohio wines are diluted with water then and/or blended with labruscas to get price down??? that fellow/gal is nuts — labruscas are soooo very powerful in both aroma and taste that anyone who tried to dilute either a vinifera or even a hybrid with a labursca would have to be selling the wine under only a ‘labrusca’ label only — you cannot ‘sneak’ a labrusca in with ANY other wine and have it go unnoticed! labruscas have their following, but certainly not among those wine folks who drink viniferas!
And reader “Wine-O” who sells wine at retail added this:
There IS a difference in wines that cost $7, $17 and $27, and I think that “most” wine consumers can tell said difference. The complexity, weight, texture, aromatics, intensity, aging capabilities, etc all play a factor and I think stating that “common” winelovers can’t tell the difference is selling them short … It is expensive to make wine. Corks, bottles, labor (huge expense that one), marketing, shipping, land, etc. Because Yellow Tail makes cheap wine from vast tracts of worthless land in the outback of Australia, then blends it in tanks that hold 60,000 cases of wine, people generally tend to think that all wine should cost $6 a bottle. The reality is that land in Napa that is uniquely situated to produce high quality wine goes for $100k an acre and that Burgundy has been famous for producing great wine for centuries yet is smaller than Rhode Island. … The selection of great wine that costs less than $10 has not “dried up.” There are many great wines out there that are inexpensive, though shopping only the Shaw and Tail wines will not get you any of them. Open your eyes people. There is an entire planet of great wines.
David concludes that perhaps he’s been too hard on Ohioans — but then opens up a whole new can of wormsl:
Thank you to wine-o for having some sympathy for my plight, and for having a realistic grasp on the costs of being a wine producer. However, I’m still having difficulty finding these great wines under $10 a bottle. I’m skeptical they exist. What I do know is that looking realistically and scientifically at the climate and soil data, Ohio more closely matches the classic European wine regions than anywhere else in North America, and the results from my vineyard support this. And because of the low land costs in Ohio, this extent of quality can be bought at a fraction of the cost of Europe or california. I can sell a bottle of wine for $15 that could match much more expensive wines from europe or california, but don’t ask me to sell wines for under $10 a bottle where I can’t even cover the cost of the raw materials. This has been a lively discussion. I shouldn’t be so hard on Ohioans.
Ohio as Bordeaux? Not so fast, reader John suggested:
I have troubling believing the line that “Ohio matches the classic European wine regions more closely”. Does Bordeaux regularly get 8” snow cover for a month at a time? Is the summer humidity in Tuscany 90% for days at a stretch? Is the Douro valley composed of a 2-meter layer of clays? No, no, and no.
And MJ added:
Jeez oh pete (as my wife would say!) This is certainly a lively discussion isn’t it? Anyway, just as a side note for those who believe that you can’t get interesting and good value wines in the $7 to $15 range, I present exhibit A, as one example. Wines of Eric Solomon [European Cellars]. I have bought for personal consumption in the last 6 months the following wines from this importer and they have all been value priced and very good. Cuevas de Castilla (Rueda), Burgans Albarino, Mas Que Vinos Escavio Bianco(excellent wine made with the indigenous Airen grape), Pinot D’Alsace, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Mas Donis Capcanes Monstat, Las Rocas de San Alejandro Viñas Viejas Garnacha (just to name a few). Likewise you can find equally great bargains from Jorge Ordonez’s fine selection of wines, and Bobby Kacher, or the wines of Dan Kravitz at Hand Picked Selections. Ask your local fine wine retailer…I am sure that he/she will be able to point you in the right direction of some very interesting and affordable wines.
David wasn’t so sure:
To John — snow doesn’t hurt vines, winter weather has no effect on wine quality, only growing season climate does. Also from my research the humidity of France is very similar to Ohio’s, a fact I was very surprised by. Ohio, in fact has fairly moderate humidity, unlike the east coast, for example. Ohio is one of the few places in the new world that have marl (clay/limestone soil) as well as sandy loam which are the type of soils in bordeaux, burgundy, barolo, duero and douro, etc. Grapevines don’t care about labels. Put them in similar environmental conditions, treated similarly by people, they’ll produce similar results. To MJ — I’ve tried several of these wines. Typical of this price range, I find them thin, somewhat flawed, and have artificial manipulations like powdered tannins and fake oak flavors added. People don’t understand that in order to make wines this cheap you have to overfertilize and irrigate to get a huge crop, then have to add chemicals back in to get them to taste more substantial after they turn out too thin. With wines in the 15 to 20 dollar range you usually can get a more natural wine.
That brought this from an Ohio wine producer:
The pricing issue … As a small (I mean s-m-a-l-l) producer, there’s always the market pressure of factory wines influencing our retail. It’s the primary reason we don’t bother to wholesale. However, I have noticed in my tasting room that customers are quicker to buy unique wines they can’t get anywhere else - regardless of the price. Our best, overall, seller is $26.95. The average person seems to be more likely to pass over varietals in the $15 range - perhaps because they can get that at the grocery at a better price? Everyone is guilty of bargain shopping, myself included. So, our winery concentrates more on the singular and less on the mainstream. I don’t really believe premium wine buyers are the demographic of small Ohio wineries anyway. Could change over time? Perhaps this cynical person should rethink his marketing strengths and not expect the rest of the world to bend to his belief system?
And finally, this from someone who USED to make wine right here in the Miami Valley:
David, my family used to own a vineyard in West Milton, just north of Dayton, in the 70s, 80s, & 90s. Snow and cold weather killed on average 10-15% of our non-vinifera vines every year. We didn’t even try to grow vinifera. I don’t understand how you can say on the one hand that Ohio’s climate & soil are so similar to classic regions, and on the other hand that it’s “impossible” to produce vinifera for less than $10. Those two statements are inconsistent.
That’s where it stands as of this writing Saturday morning. Whew! My keyboard is worn out.
This exchange, to me, illustrates the Web — and blogging — at its best: informative and thought-provoking.Thanks to those who commented, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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A taste of luxury few will experience
Let’s play word association. When I say “Dom,” what comes to mind?
Luxury? Refinement? Excess? Spoiled, overpaid baseball players splashing around perfectly good Champagne in a damn locker room, just because they can?
Yeah, me too.
But this weekend, those of us who haven’t the means to purchase a full bottle of Dom Perignon can at least find out what all the hubbub is about — for the price of a tasting fee, anyway (what IS the retail price of Dom these days, anybody know?). That’s because DP’s 1996 Vintage Champagne is among the wines available for sampling on Saturday (I’ll let you play “Where’s Dom?” in the list that follows) as the Miami Valley wine world girds its collective loins for the full crush of the holiday season. But as you’ll see by the list, Dom’s got LOTS of sparkly little friends all OVER town this weekend, as wine-tasting venues pop the corks on some luxury bubblies to help us celebrate the season.
Read the list carefully, because some wine shops are not having their regular tastings in the coming days and weeks, apparently because of the holiday crush. (Sigh.) Looks like their competitors are taking up the slack, though.
As it does every week, this list comes to Uncorked via the heroic efforts of a Dayton-based wine listserv, which does all of the heavy lifting of compiling it. For that we are grateful. VERY grateful.
Click on “continue reading” to gaze lovingly at the wine-tastings list, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jays Kitchen Door
Friday, December 15, 2006 4-8 pm NV Tattinger La Francis 2003 Clos de Sette 2004 Ciacci Piccolomini Roos di Montalcino 2001 Poggio Antico Brunello 2003 La Fortes De Latour
Saturday, December 16, 2006 1-6 pm 1996 Duval Leroy Champagne 2001 Saint Cosme Cote du Rhone 2001 E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2002 Chateau Monbousquet
Jays will be open for lunch Monday through Friday, December 4-22 and on Friday, December 29.
Arrow – Kettering Arrow Kettering will resume tastings Saturday, January 6, 2007
Arrow Wine & Spirits — Centerville
615 Lyons Rd Saturday, December 16, 2006 11 am – 5 pm 2005 Max Ferd Richter Veldenzer Elisenberg Kabinett… 2004 Anne Aimee “Cuvée A” Pinot Noir… 2005 Slipstream Shiraz-Grenache… 2004 Delisio Quarterback Shiraz… 2004 Steltzner Napa Valley Malbec… 2001 La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood Wednesday, December 27 th from 5:30 – 8:30 Oakwood DLM will have a Champagne tasting accompanied by hors doeuvres
Friday, December 15, 2006 5-8pm Gruet Brut NV Domaine Serene Cote Du Sud Chardonnay 2003 Hahn Pinot Noir 2003 D’Alassandro Cortona Syrah 2003 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet 1999 Brown Fuzzy Bag!
Saturday, December 16, 2006 1-6pm Egly-Ouriet Brut NV Domaine Serene Closs du Soleil Chardonnay 2003 LaPlaya Claret 1996 Elan Atlas Peak Cabernet 2001 Croft Vintage Porto 2003 Bonus Bottle!
Beers: He’Brew Jewbulation Ridgeway Bad Elf
DLM Washington Square
Thursday December 14, 2006 5-8 pm 2006 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Domaine Mignuret-Gibourg Bourgogne 2003 Chateau les Quatre Filles Cotes du Rhone Villages 2003 Avignonese Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2003 Finca Sandoval Mystery Wine!
Saturday, December 16, 2006 12-5pm Fifi’s Birthday Splash
NV Duvel Leroy Brut 2003 Walter Hansel North Slope Chardonnay 2004 Clos Mimi Petite Rousse Syrah 2005 Mitolo GAM Shiraz 2004 Storybook Antaeus Zinfandel 2003 Chateau St. Georges St. Emillion Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro
Friday, December 15, 2006 3-7pm 03 Grgich Hills Chardonnay 04 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir 01 Elan Cabernet NV Jean Lallement Champagne
Saturday, December 16, 2006 12-5pm 03 Vincent Pouilly-Fuisse 99 Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du Pape 96 Dom Perignon 03 Opus One No tastings on Saturday Dec. 23 or Dec. 30
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar
4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, December 15 – December 14, 2006 Moreson 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Dominique Cornin 2004 Clos Reyssie Pouilly Fuisse Morgan Double L Chardonnay Hedges Red Mountain Three Vineyards Domaine de La Solitude 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Pine Ridge 2003 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon
Beer: When Tommyknocker Cocoa Porter runs out they will switch to New Holland Blue Goat Dunkel
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, December 16 2004 Averiel LaKe Chardonnay 2002 Averiel Lake Merlot 2003 Averiel Lake Cabernet Sauvignon
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, December 19, 2006 4:30 pm
DiSalvos Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Delis Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Trader Joes, Town & Country Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Segura Viudas Brut Reserva sparkling wine (NV) Cava, Spain; Schloss Biebrich sparkling wine (NV) Sekt, Germany; Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon (2004) WO Robertson, South Africa; Casillero del Diablo Reserve Carmenere (2005) Central Valley, Chile; Stag’s Leap Petite Syrah (2002) Napa Valley, California. .
LAuberge No tastings until January 9, 2007
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Thursday, December 14th, Drop-in 5-8 pm Silverado Chardonnay Rombauer Cabernet Sauvignon Cline Cellars Cool Climate Syrah Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Zinfandel
Friday, December 15th, Drop-in 5-7:30 pm ~ Wines to Celebrate the Holidays! St. Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux Blanc de Blancs Gray Parrot Sauvignon Blanc Carneros Creek Reserve Pinot Noir Bodegas Salentein Finca el Portillo Malbec Hill of Content Old Vine Shiraz-Grenache Rosenblum San Francisco Bay Zinfandel Port, Castanho Vineyard
Saturday, December 16th, 3-6 pm ~ Great Wines from Napa Valley!
Winds Café Yellow Springs Call 937-767-9441 to make reservations for events. Saturday, December 30th, 2006 New Year Eve Eve Dinner
Wine Classes Saturday, January 27, 2007 and February 3, 2007 3 pm Wine 101 Saturday, March 3, 2007 and March 10, 2007 3 pm Wine 201
The Emporium In Yellow Springs Friday, December 15, 2008 6:30 pm Live Music
El Meson
Tuesday, December 19, 5-9PM “A Taste of the World” at El Meson, 903 East Dixie Drive, West Carrollton, Ohio 45449 (937) 859-8229, Fax (937) 859-8220, www.ElMeson.Net Wine and Tapas Pairings
Grapes of Ruth
The Wine Gallery & Cafe 424 East Third Street Dayton, Ohio 45402 937-224-WINE
TomKatz Wine Tasting for Wednesdays Time: 5:00 - 7:00 p.m. Phone: 937-743-8111 Address: S.R. 73 just East of I75
La Petite France 3177 Glendate-Milford Road Cincinnati, Ohio www.lapetitefrance.biz Call 513-733-8383 for your reservations.
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Dr. Vino’s wine quiz
Today we respectfullyl direct your attention to the notorious Dr. Vino’s Year-End Wine Quiz 2006, which comes with actual prizes. And get this: the prizes are furnished by a wine blogger.
I know, I know: Uncorked readers never get treated this well. But Dr. Vino can afford it. He’s got a Ph.D.
Anyway, respondents with correct scores will be put in a raffle for two fine and dandy wine books: the Oxford Companion to Wine, Third Edition, edited by Jancis Robinson, and The Wines of France: The Essential Guide for Savvy Shoppers, by Jacqueline Friederich.
I’ll let you know how I do — if you let me know how you do. Ready, set, GO!
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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For those with a thirst for wine knowledge, this may be the ultimate gift
I enjoy reading about wine. You must, too.
If you know someone who really really enjoys reading about wine — and if you’re feeling in a particularly generous mood this holiday season — consider giving a gift of words: The World of Fine Wine magazine.
Why do you have to be a particularly generous person to give this gift? Because a one-year subscription to the World of Fine Wine costs $169. The magazine — it’s really more of a journal — comes out quarterly, which works out to be $42.25 per issue.
But what an issue it is. The sample issue I read has 144 pages, and less than 2 percent of that consisted of ads (a slightly different ratio than, say, Wine Spectator …). The rest is solid editorial content: news, food, travel, profiiles of wine-growing regions, in-depth tasting notes (the 1994 and ‘97 vintages of California Cab, for example).
For a word guy, this is uncut heroin. And costs only slightly more. No, wait, just kidding!
The way I figure it, if you’re willing to spend (insert your own dollar figure here) for a bottle of wine that lasts a couple of hours, why not spend $169 for a bit of lasting wine knowledge?
The editorial teamof the London-based magazine includes a who’s who of heavy hitters on the international wine scene: it is led by Hugh Johnson, Andrew Jefford, and Neil Beckett. Contributors have included Jancis Robinson, Michael Broadbent, David Peppercorn, Gerald Asher, Tim Atkin, Oz Clarke, Clive Coates, Bipin Desai, Allen Meadows, Nicolas Belfrage, David Schildknecht, Serena Sutcliffe, and Tom Stevenson. THOSE folks have a few wine books and articles among them …
For a taste of the contents, check out the FREE (now THAT’s a price I can handle) downloadable stories from previous editions of the journal (including one from David Schildknecht) on its web site: www.finewinemag.com.
Schildknecht, by the way, has this to say about the publication:
The World of Fine Wine is a different sort of wine journal. Which other would dare to treat intoxication, synaesthesia, linguistic muddle, arrested fermentation, Champagne riots, Rabelais’s laughter, van Gogh’s madness, and gout?
Hugh Johnson says the magazine “takes wine journalism in a new, more sophisticated direction. It is not a consumer magazine, but the first cultural journal of the wine world.”
So there you have it: the ultimate gift for those sophisticates with a strong hankerin’ for wine knowledge. For subscription information, click here. Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Winemaker wants to know: Why don’t cheapskate Ohioans spend more on wine?
This comment to yesterday’s post entitled How much would you pay for a bottle of wine to have for dinner tonight? was submitted overnight last night, and I’m not sure what to make of it. So I’ll turn to you to help me. It comes from a winemaker, but I’m not sure whether the winemaker lives inside our outside the state. I’m thinking outside. Here’s what he (or she) had to say:
I noticed in the last year or two that there are very few good wines under $15. When there is one it immediately sells out at my local wineshops. As a wine producer myself I can easily understand why prices are increasing as the prices of bottles,corks and labels have gone up so much. The under $15 wines taste bland and chemically probably because these wines are made in the factory not in the vineyard— the only way to make them this cheap. What I don’t understand is a $15 dollar bottle of can be drunk over 3 days at $5 a day, which is nothing. Ohioans make decent wages with an obscenely low cost of living. They have alot of disposable income but often balk at paying more than $10 for a bottle of wine. Can someone explain why?
Well?
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How much would you pay for a bottle of wine to have for dinner tonight?
California dominates the category of wine that marketing folks call “premium,” according to this Los Angeles Times story. (Free registration required for the LA Times web site)
But here’s a little tidbit that caught my eye: One of the lead researchers in the study — done for the Wine Institute and designed to show the economic value of the state’s wine industry — said wine drinkers are “moving up” in what they’re willing to spend.
“Fifteen dollars is the new $10,” the researcher told the newspaper. “We used to go in a store and say, ‘I’ll only spend $10 for a wine for dinner.’ Now it’s $15.”
So, first of all, is she right? Has you own personal “price point” moved up?
How much are you willing to spend for a bottle of wine to have with dinner tonight? And how likely is it your choice will be a California wine?
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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What the heck are they tasting this weekend in Dayton, Ohio?
Well, thanks to the heroic efforts of a local wine listserv, we can answer that question. Well, actually, YOU can, by clicking on “continue reading” below (note the addition of El Meson in West Carrollton and The Emporium in Yellow Springs to this events list). Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jays Kitchen Door Friday, December 8, 2006 4-8 pm NV Chandon Brut Rose 2002 Chateau Haut Bages 2001 Chateau St Jean 2003 Chateau D ISSAN 2003 Chateau La Dame Montrose
Saturday, December 9, 2006 1-6 pm 2005 Penascol Sauvignon Blanc 2003 L Ecole Merlot 41 2000 Scopetone Brunello 1999 Spottswood Cabernet
Jays will be open for lunch Monday through Friday, December 4-22 and on Friday, December 29.
Arrow – Kettering Arrow Kettering will resume tastings Saturday, January 6, 2007
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood
Wednesday, December 27 th from 5:30 – 8:30 Oakwood DLM will have Champagne tasting accompanied by hors d oeuvres
Friday, December 8, 2006 5-8pm Gloria Ferrer NV Brut Beaumont Chenin Blanc 2004 Earl Saint-Julien Nuits St. George 2003 Paloma Merlot 2004 Beaumont Shiraz 2003 Rocking Horse Cabernet 2001 Brown Fuzzy Bag!
Saturday, December 9, 2006 1-6pm Foxglove Chardonnay 2005 Domaine Serene Yamill Cuvee Pinot Noir 2004 Beaumont Pinotage 2003 Cuvasion Cabernet 2002 Clos du Mont-Olivet Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2004 Bonus Bottle
Beers: Barrel House Belgian Style Winter Ale Delirium Noel
DLM Washington Square Thursday December 7, 2006 5-8 pm 05 Verget Marsanne 04 Darting Pinot Noir (Germany) 01 Donatello Brunello di Montalcino 03 Clio Jumilla 03 Chateau dIssan Margaux Mystery Wine!
Saturday, December 9, 2006 12-5pm Aubry a Jouy-les Reims Brut 05 Foxglove Chardonnay 03 Pellegrini Zinfandel 04 Henrys Drive Shiraz 03 Mt. Eden Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, December 8, 2006 3-7pm 02 Mount Eden Chardonnay 04 Rosenblum Aparicio Zinfandel 02 Grgich Hills Merlot 02 Volker Eisele Cabernet
Saturday, December 9, 2006 12-5pm 05 Chateau Graville-Lacoste NV Rene Geoffroy Rose Brut 03 Chapoutier Croix de Bois 03 Chateau La Lagune Haut-Medoc
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, December 8 – December 14, 2006 Kathleen Late Harvest Chardonnay with orange slice River Village White Tanner Park Chardonnay Darting Pinot Noir Weinert Merlot D’Alessandro Cortona Syrah Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Sparkling Shiraz
Saturday, December 9th, Beautiful Jewelry by Angie Spencer and Valerie Wheeler. Noon to 7PM.
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, December 9
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, December 13, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvos Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Delis Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, December 9, 2006 11 am – 5 pm Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut… 2005 Justin Chardonnay… 2003 Sebastiani Merlot… 2003 Chateau Reynella Shiraz… 2003 Chateau St. Michelle Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon… 2003 Chateau Meyney
Trader Joes, Town & Country Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Condesa de Sarabella White (2005) DOC Calatayud, Spain; Finca Solana Organically-Grown Tempranillo (2002) DOC Utiel-Requena, Spain; Quarles Harris Tawny Port (NV) DOCa Porto, Portugal; Quarles Harris Late Bottled Vintage Port (2000) DOCa Porto, Portugal.
LAuberge No tastings until January 9, 2007
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Friday, December 8th 5-7 pm ~ Sexy Italian Reds -Those interested in attending may stop in between 5-7 pm. Scarlatta Montepulciano dAbruzzo Boccadigabbia Rosso Piceno Mazzi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Grimaldi Dolcetto dAlba Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano
Saturday, December 9th, 3-6 pm ~ Argentina: More than Just Malbec
Winds Café Yellow Springs Call 937-767-9441 to make reservations for events. Saturday, December 30th, 2006 New Year Eves Dinner
Wine Classes Saturday, January 27, 2007 and February 3, 2007 3 pm Wine 101 Saturday, March 3, 2007 and March 10, 2007 3 pm Wine 201
Emporium In Yellow Springs Friday, December 8, 2008 6:30 pm Live Music Shotfire Shiraz Milton Park Chardonnay Barnard Gfiffin Fume Blanc Barnard Griffin Cabernet Erbacher Riesling Yasa Granache Figaro Tinto Trres Ojos Granache
El Meson Tuesday, December12, 5-9PM “A Taste of the World” at El Meson, 903 East Dixie Drive, West Carrollton, Ohio 45449 (937) 859-8229, Fax (937) 859-8220, www.ElMeson.Net
Wine and Tapas Pairings Menu for Tuesday, December12, 5-9PM. Red wine and Tapas: Cheese Plate - Manchego Cheese, Spanish Goat Cheese, almonds, olives, and bread; 2002 Muga Reserva, Rioja, Spain Savory cheese cake with crackers and fruits; 2002 Arboleda Syrah, Chile Garbanzos con Chorizo - Chick peas with chorizo and spinach; 2004 Torres Atrium Merlot, Penedes, Spain
White wines and Tapas: Pescados y Chorizos - Seafood and Chorizos; 2005 Burgans Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain Smoked Salmon Quesadilla; 2005 Gramona Gessami, Penedes, Spain Seabass Ceviche; 2005 Trumpeter Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina
Grapes of Ruth Champagne Tasting Wednesday, December 83, 6-8 PM Raw seafood Bar Perrier Jouet non Vintage Mumm Napa Brut GH Mumm Cordon Rouge Heidsieck NV Duval Leroy
The Wine Gallery & Cafe 424 East Third Street Dayton, Ohio 45402 937-224-WINE
TomKatz Wine Tasting for Wednesdays Time: 5:00 - 7:00 p.m. Phone: 937-743-8111 Address: S.R. 73 just East of I75
La Petite France 3177 Glendate-Milford Road Cincinnati, Ohio www.lapetitefrance.biz 513-733-8383 Check the La Petite France website for wine dinner information.
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More winemaker fathers turning the reins over to their daughters
First of all, if you haven’t read the readers’ comments (in other words, YOUR comments) on the post yesterday about the wine scandal in New Zealand and its potential impact on wine ratings and competitions, click here. And for an entirely new perspective, check out Sacramento Bee food editor and wine columnist Mike Dunne’s take on the issue.
On other fronts, the best wine-related read on the ‘net this week has got to be Like Father, Like Daughter — from Wine Enthusiast Online. Some great father-daughter stories here (make sure you scroll down to find the rest of the story), and I like how the magazine went abroad (Gaja, Banfi) to expand the story’s scope. And I enjoyed this quote from Stephanie Gallo, talking about her relationship with her dad, Joe Gallo:
“I have learned so much from my dad, both personally and professionally,” Gallo says. “At work, we talk about work. The second we step outside the winery, we’re father-daughter.” She’s proud of the family heritage: “My grandfather and great-uncle Julio brought wine to America. The second generation brought California wine to the world. I hope to do this for the rest of my life.”
And the profile of Fisher Vineyards owner Fred Fisher and his daughter Whitney caught my eye. With a name like Fisher Vineyards, how can it go wrong?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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NZ wine scandal could threaten the credibility of wine reviews, contests worldwide
There’s a very intriguing wine scandal fermenting in New Zealand, where an award-winning wine was stripped of its gold medal after it was determined the sample sent to contest judges was completely different from the identically labeled wines available to the public. The winemaker involved is scrambling to limit the fallout from the incident, and says there was no intent to deceive.
Still, I believe this scandal could reverberate well beyond New Zealand’s borders because it begs the question: How prevalent is the practice of winemakers sending a “special cuvee” — the wine from its best vineyard or best barrel, for example — to wine reviewers and wine competitions in hopes of bagging a high score or a gold medal, then bottling its similar-but-slightly-more-pedestrian wine for the unsuspecting public? I’m not suggesting it’s common. But I worry it might be happening more than we think.
Simply put, the credibility of the wine scores we read in Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate and elsewhere relies on consumers’ belief that the wine in the bottle they buy in the corner wine shop is the same wine that scored the precious 90. If that belief is shaken, the scores become meaningless.
Some large wine publications solicit samples from wineries and award scores based solely on those samples. Others try to buy their wines in the marketplace, but still participate in large-scale tastings and events that unveil the new wines of the vintage, where some shenanigans could still take place.
So how often does this switcharoo occur, and what steps can wine magazine editors, newsletter authors and wine competition judges take to protect the integrity of their ratings and results?
This could get very interesting.
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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The best gifts for wine lovers
I wrote a piece for this morning’s Dayton Daily News on the best gifts for food and drink lovers. You Uncorked readers already got a sneak peak at one gift recommendation when you read yesterday’s post about the best wine book of the year, but today’s newspaper story branched out a bit from there, and borrowed from a piece I wrote last week on the best corkscrews for the money.
But heck, what do I know? What’s YOUR nomination for best gift suggestion for a wine lover, and, even more important, which corkscrew do you use to unleash the magic in the bottle?
Here’s what I had to say this morning about wine and beer and spirits gifts, in addition to the excellent MacLean book:
Other ideas for wine lovers: How about signing your honeybunny up (or both of you!) for a wine class? Some local wine shops host such classes after the holidays: The Winds will hold Wine 101 classes at 3 p.m. on Jan. 27 and Feb. 3 (and Wine 201 classes on March 3 and 10), and Grapes of Ruth in Springboro is putting together a class for Jan. 17. Other wine shops might have classes in the works — or might consider the idea if you ask them (and if you promise to recruit a couple of your friends…). And in case you missed the corkscrew story published on these pages a week ago, the Screwpull Classic Self-Pulling Corkscrew makes a perfect stocking stuffer and is available in many local wine shops for $15-$20. There’s a slew of spirits-related gift sets available this holiday season for lovers of nearly every type of booze: for the tequila enthusiast, Sauza Reposado Hornitos Tequila with two tall shot glasses for $29.25; scotch drinkers could revel in Johnnie Walker Black gift box that contains two glasses; but the most visually striking is the Ciroc Vodka set with two martini glasses. The vodka comes from France, where it is made from grapes. . And for beer fans of all stripes, check out the 2007 Craft Beer Calendar that was put together by Dayton Daily News photographer Jim Witmer 2007 ($15 at www.jimwitmer.com) or consider the Michelob Holiday Edition gift pack, which contains two specialty beers, vanilla and chocolate (honest) with two glasses, for $19.99. The vanilla brew didn’t go over too well with a group of friends, but the chocolate was rich and creamy, tasting like a fine dark beer.
Your thoughts?
Thanks for reading, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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The best wine book of the year
Natalie MacLean likes to drink wine. And she likes to write about it, too.
And believe me, her enthusiasm shows.
Of the hundreds of wine books that were published in the past year, it’s a good bet that MacLean’s book, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass (Bloomsbury, $23.95), stands out.
First, MacLean succeeds in walking the incredibly fine line between pleasing both wine novices and aficionados. Her first-person accounts of working for a day as a sommelier and as a wine store clerk are filled with humor, insight and self-deprecation. Her descriptions of her visits with some of the most prestigious winemakers in the world (from Lalou Bize-Leroy to Randall Grahm) paint a three-dimensional portrait of some industry titans.
Plus, this woman — who has won four James Beard Journalism Awards — can just flat-out write. Don’t take my word for it. Listen to MacLean’s words:
But I have to confess, much as I’m drawn to its nuances, I wouldn’t be writing about wine if it weren’t for the buzz. I love the way a glass of wine makes me feel — invigorated and animated, released from my natural shyness. After a couple of glasses, I’m mellow, soothed, contemplative … . I’m sure other wine writers feel the same way, and yet when I read about wine, I often get the odd impression that it has no alcohol in it. Perhaps this unnecessary seriousness about wine is a hangover from Prohibition; or maybe it’s because we think that the body can’t be part of anything intellectual.
Or this, from a discussion about mass-produced wines that are made with a bit of sweetness for wide appeal:
Purists rail against branded wines such as Yellow Tail because they stand for everything wine shouldn’t be about, in their opinion: predictability, homogeneity, security, profitability, and simplicity of taste. But Chateau Margaux and Tignanello are brands too; they just happen to be expensive ones. The dark side of wine brands is that they play to our insecurities about trying something new and therefore narrow the diversity of wine. With that consistency comes monotony. The thrill of wine is in its complex, mercurial nature. From this perspective, brands are anti-wines; confections of a chemistry set.
For more about MacLean and the book, click here. And check out tomorrow’s (Tuesday’s) Dayton Daily News, when I write about other fine holiday gift ideas for wine and food lovers. Thanks and cheers! Mark Fisher
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Which corkscrews work the best?
This is a copy of a story I wrote for the Nov. 29, 2006 edition of the Dayon Daily News:
Which corkscrews won’t leave you too tired to lift your glass?
By Mark Fisher
Staff Writer
Why care about corkscrews?
Because just breaking the neck off your wine bottles gets messy. And because even though more wines — even high-quality ones — are coming out in screwcap twist-off bottles nowadays, the era of the cork-enclosed bottle of wine is not yet history, and won’t be anytime soon.
Even if you have vowed to drink screwcap-only for life, someday a visitor will bring over a cork-enclosed wine and hand it to you, expectantly. Then what?
So just in time for the holiday shopping season, we went in search of The Perfect Corkscrew, and while we’re still searching for perfection, we found many different types and styles that will get the job done — at differing degrees of difficulty, speed and cost.
Here’s a sampling:
Professional waiter’s corkscrew
Wine Enthusiast brand, $6.99 at Linens-n-Things
Comments: Single-hinged design makes it somewhat more difficult to use than the double-hinged versions of the waiter’s corkscrew, but this is a solidly built corkscrew for an easy-to-swallow price.
Pullman’s double-hinged
waiter’s corkscrew
$8.49 at Arrow Wine & Spirits, Centerville
Comments: The second hinge on the metal piece that provides leverage against the top of the wine bottle gives this well-built waiter’s corkscrew an extra measure of dexterity and ease of use.
Bonny Bar bell-style corkscrew
$2.99 at Kroger
Comments: The cheapest of the bunch, and I guess sometimes you do get what you pay for: This corkscrew fails as often as it succeeds, at least for me. Avoid.
Screwpull classic
self-pulling corkscrew
$15.99 Arrow Wine
Comments: The ol’ reliable of corkscrews (I first recommended it in a Taste of Wine column exactly 16 years ago this month), this brilliant device from France still reigns supreme in its combination of size, ease of use, reliability and durability, even with hard-to-budge synthetic corks. Place it over the neck of the bottle, turn in a clockwise motion and keep turning until the cork “climbs up” and out of bottle. No pulling required. Then just hold the screw and turn the handle counterclockwise until the cork is released.
Bonny Bar black plastic cork-puller
$4.99 at Kroger
Comments: This corkscrew operates on the same general principle as the Screwpull model, and it is much cheaper. It has a soft rubber base that fits around the top of the wine bottle. Not as smooth as the Screwpull and requires more effort, but is a bargain buy.
Epic Estates ‘ah-so’ style
two-pronged cork puller
$6.99 at Arrow Wine
Comments: Everybody should have an ah-so-style wine puller as a “plan B” for when a corkscrew just drills a hole in the center of the cork but doesn’t dislodge the stopper. Here’s how to do it: Slide the tip of the longer prong between the cork and the glass, then slip the shorter prong between the cork and the glass. Gently rock back and forth while applying gentle downward pressure until the prongs slide all the way down the sides of the cork. Then pull up while twisting the cork. Rescue mission accomplished!
Deluxe wing corkscrew
Wine Enthusiast, $9.99 at Linens-n-Things
Comments: Don’t quite know what’s deluxe about it, but these double-wing-style cork pullers do a reasonably good job of pulling the cork far enough up and out of the neck of the bottle that you can pull it the rest of the way. Never my favorite, but gits ‘er done.
‘Rabbit’-style lever corkscrew
Wine Enthusiast, $24.99 (as part of a nine-piece set) at Linens-n-Things
Comments: These lever rabbit-style corkscrews are the Cadillacs of cork pullers, and some versions sell for $100 and up. The less expensive ones have gotten somewhat sturdier in recent years, but still sometimes have problems with synthetic corks. The single-twist-of-the-wrist ease of opening — and the swift removal of the cork from the metal “worm” by simply repeating the same motion — makes this the fastest way to open a large number of bottles and makes for a conversation piece for those who have never seen one work.
Swiss Army knife
Price varies
Comments: When stranded on a desert island with cases of fine Bordeaux and no corkscrew in sight, reach for Mr. All-Purpose and thank those Swiss for making sure a corkscrew worm was among the many options they appended to the army knife.
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Kicking off a December to remember
Lotsa fun stuff going on in the local wine world this week, especially on Saturday, with the Banfi luncheon at Jay’s and the Bubble Bash dinner at Cuvee joining the “regular” Saturday tastings, which include a Bordeaux close to my heart, the Ch. Meyney 2003, on the tasting bar at Arrow’s south store. That humble but reliable producer is the only Bordeaux vertical collection I’ve got in my cellar. So somebody let me know how the ‘03 is — I’ll be attending a birthday gathering for my father-in-law, who turns 80 this week, and will miss the entire day’s festivities. I’ll live vicariously through all of you …
Click on “continue reading” below to access the full wine tastings and events list, which comes to Uncorked via the heroic efforts of a Dayton-based wine listserv, which compiles the information. Thanks and cheers!
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, December 1, 2006 4-8 pm Banfi’s Big Brunellos SUMMUS / Sangiovese (Banfi Clonal Selection) / Cabernet Sauvignon / Syrah POGGIO ALL’ORO / Sangiovese POGGIO ALLE MURA / Sangiovese BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO / Sangiovese
Saturday, December 2, 2006 1-6 pm SUMMUS / Sangiovese / Cabernet Sauvignon / Syrah POGGIO ALL’ORO / Sangiovese POGGIO ALLE MURA / Sangiovese BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO / Sangiovese
Saturday, December 2, 2006 12:30 pm, $55 (inclusive) Banfi Wine Luncheon Seared sea scallops with turnip puree and tomato truffle oil Assorted roasted beet salad w/ candied walnuts and manchego cheese Herb roasted beef tenderloin w/ au gratin potatoes and vegetable with veal-truffle sauce Chocolate molten cakes with fresh berries and cream
Jay’s will be open for lunch Monday through Friday, December 4-22 and on Friday, December 29.
Arrow – KetteringSaturday, December 2, 2006 11-4 pm 2006 pillar box white 2005 mollydooker enchanted path 2003 pride cabernet sauvignon 2003 alto moncayo granacha two additional wines will be tasted This will be the last tasting of the year for the Far Hills store. Tastings will resume 01/06/07
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd
Saturday, December 2, 2006 2005 Sketchbook Pinot Noir… 2005 Alessandria Dolcetto D’Alba… 1999 Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon “Endeavour”… 2002 Page Napa Valley Red Blend… 2003 Chateau Meyney… 2005 Domaine Georges Brunet Vouvray Demi-Sec
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM Oakwood
Friday, December 1, 2006 5-8pm Cremant D’Alsace Brut NV Shawn & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Storybook Mountain Zinfandel 2003 B R Cohn North Coast Silver Label Cabernet 2003 Ca’Marcanda Magari Gija 2002 Brown Fuzzy Bag
Saturday, December 2, 2006 1-6pm Duval Leroy NV Brut Paris Bridlewood Viognier 2005 Alex Corton Premier Cru 2002 Sterling Merlot 2003 Raymond Reserve Cabernet 2001 Schild Estate Shiraz 2004 Bonus Bottle
Beers: Bad Elf Winter Ale Santa’s Butt Porter
DLM Washington Square
Thursday November 30, 2006 5-8 pm 2004 Bucci Verdicchio Ramblin’ Red 2003 Mazzi Valpolicella 2002 Dourthe no.1 Rouge 2004 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon Mystery Wine!
Saturday, December 2, 2006 12-5pm Gosset Brabant Champagne Tradition 1er Cru Brut 2004 Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Lava Cap Zinfandel 2005 The Prisoner 1998 M. Chappoutier “Les Becasses” Cote Rotie
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, December 1, 2006 3-7pm 02 St Supery White Meritage 03 Burch Hall Syrah 03 L’Ecole #41 Merlot 03 Sorella Red Wine
Saturday, December 2, 2006 12-5pm 05 Patz & Hall Chardonnay 02 Sinskey 4 Vineyard Pinot Noir 03 Chateau Le Bosco Saint-Estephe 04 Covenant Cabernet
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook
Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines being tasted beginning Friday, Nov 17 – Nov 22, 2006 Kitfox Viognier Mia’s Playground Chardonnay Caldora Pecorino Terre Di Cheti Kitfox Syrah Hannicutt Cabernet La Gerla Brunello Beer: Mt. Caramel Stout Food: Pecorin/Romano with Balsamic vinegar Italian Beef Sandwiches
Saturday, December 2nd Cuvee Bubble Bash (Champagne Tasting) 7:30 PM Reservations required. Sparkling wine, Champagne and Chris’s delicious food.
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday, December 2
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, December 6, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Trader Joe’s, Town & Country Kettering
Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 !New Wines this Week Santa Barbara Landing Chardonnay (2005) AVA Santa Barbara Country, California; Trellis Merlot (2003) AVA Sonoma Country, California; Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon (2002) AVA Los Carneros, California.
L’Auberge No tastings until January 9, 2007
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com
Friday, December 1st, 7 pm ~ Wines that go well with Appetizers - Wines for Friday include Felluga “Esperto” Pinot Grigio, Trimbach Alsatian Riesling, Marques Caceres Dry Rosé, Soiree Oregon Pinot Noir, LaDoga Morellino di Scansano (Chianti blend) and Moon Mountain Cabernet (Bordeaux blend). Call 942-Wine (9463) for reservations.
Saturday, December 2nd, 3-6 pm ~ Great Salad & Pizza Wines
Winds Café Yellow Springs Call 937-767-9441 to make reservations for events. Saturday, December 2, 2006, 3pm Champagne Tasting
Saturday, Devember 30th, 2006 New Year Eve’s Dinner
Wine Classes Saturday, January 27, 2007 and February 3, 2007 3 pm Wine 101 Saturday, March 3, 2007 and March 10, 2007 3 pm Wine 201
Grapes of Ruth
Champagne Tasting Wednesday, December 13, 6-8 PM Raw seafood Bar Perrier Jouet non Vintage Mumm Napa Brut GH Mumm Cordon Rouge Heidsieck NV Duval Leroy
The Wine Gallery & Cafe 424 East Third Street Dayton, Ohio 45402 937-224-WINE Cossart Gordon Solera 1845
TomKatz Wine Tasting for Wednesdays Time: 5:00 - 7:00 p.m. Phone: 937-743-8111 Address: S.R. 73 just East of I75
La Petite France
December 7th at 6:30 pm, will be the annual sparkling wine and champagne tasting dinner.
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