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Home > Blogs > Uncorked > Archives > 2009 > July > 31 > Entry
Kroger’s new wine department kicks it up a notch
KETTERING — The newly remodeled and reopened “Fresh Fare” Kroger store at 530 E. Stroop Road promises to kick the competition for wine and beer sales up a notch in Dayton’s south suburbs.
The store has plenty of well-entrenched wine competition nearby, including Arrow Wine & Spirits’ Far Hills Avenue store in Kettering, Dorothy Lane Market stores in Oakwood and Washington Twp., and Trader Joe’s in Kettering. But Kroger seems to have made a decision to compete more aggressively for a larger slice of the grape, judging by its larger wine department, new tasting bar and ambitious tasting schedule.
Dean Breeding — who opened the store’s original wine department when the Stroop Road Kroger first opened in 1989 and went on to help open wine departments in Kroger stores in Springboro and Englewood — has returned to oversee the “Fresh Fare” Kroger store’s wine shop, and he seems genuinely stoked about the resources that the Cincinnati-based grocer has committed to the effort.
“This is not your Daddy’s Kroger,” Breeding said.
The Kettering store now has an attractive new tasting bar, and Breeding said he’ll host occasional wine dinners in the store’s new Bistro and will offer wine tastings twice weekly. Here’s the tentative tasting schedule:
— Fridays from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., when the emphasis will be on wines priced $12 and under and the cost will be $2 for four samples, and
—Saturdays from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m., when the focus will be on wines priced $15 and up, and the cost will be $5 for four samples.
— Thursday is beer night, with a tasting of microbrews or imported beers scheduled for every Thursday from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.
The reopened Kroger has about 2,600 wine selections, Breeding said. It is particularly deep in California wines, although its European fine-wine selections appear to lag behind most of its competitors. Here’s a sampling of some of the high-end Californians in the grocery store’s reserve room:
— Stag’s Leap Fay Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $91.
— Heitz Cellars Trailside Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $105.
— BV Vineyards Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $120.
— Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, $121
There is a bit of deja vu to all of this. I recall when Kroger opened this Kettering store in 1989, the wine department’s shelves were filled with high-quality wines, and Kroger folks were touting the new wine department. But either the wines didn’t sell or when they did sell they weren’t reordered, because the wonderful selection gradually dissipated, and fine wines were slowly replaced by much cheaper ones.
I asked Breeding: Why should we believe the same thing won’t happen again?
“Well, I’m here,” he replied. Kroger has provided many of the amenities that Breeding has been advocating for, and he is determined to make this wine department succeed. “I won’t recommend a bottle of wine that I haven’t personally tried,” he said.
The weakness in the store’s selection of French, Italian and German wines will hurt Kroger in the eyes of many serious wine enthusiasts, but the tasting bar, the new weekly tastings, the opportunities for more interaction with winemakers and winery representatives, and the addition of another venue for wine dinners are all encouraging news for wine lovers. And at the end of the day, more people will be exposed to the wonders of the grape, which should help all wine retailers.
Permalink | Comments (14) | Post your comment | Categories: Local wine news
Comments
By wine-o
August 20, 2009 9:36 AM | Link to this
We have a Fresh Fare in Columbus and it is a not so subtle attempt at duplicating the success of Whole Foods. The real difference may or may not be in the long term viability, but in the short term Kroger will continue their association with big box complanies and big box wine. 2,600 selections sounds like a lot, but when BV makes 40, Yellow Tail 30 and Mondavi about 150 when you add up all of their brands, the count isn’t so impressive. Nothing compares to Dorothy Lane in terms of selection, quality and most importantly the knowledge level of the staff. I am sure that there is a discussion in here somewhere about the differences between a company that has lived by a certain philosophy all along, and one that is trying to adapt/ copy what is popular now…
By Amy Deal
August 4, 2009 1:03 AM | Link to this
Love the Friday wine tastings. I drink what I like and have never met a rude wine seller!
By M
August 3, 2009 10:42 PM | Link to this
Checked out the wine section last night. Underwhelmed. Found many instances of the same bottle(s) being placed in multiple locations of various shelves (not just multiple facings of the same wine) to make it look like a larger selection. Prices weren’t anything spectacular, although the state has a lot to do with that. Can find similar or better selection/pricing at other local & local-owned retailers.
By winewheezie
August 2, 2009 5:04 PM | Link to this
Yes, and a “good” wine shop sells lots of wine from everywhere else but Ohio. When is Kroger, an Ohio based company, going to promote local wines the same way Biggs does?
By Paul
August 1, 2009 12:27 PM | Link to this
I’m not sure where Jerry buys his wine, either. In more than 25 years of buying wine in the Dayton area, I don’t think I’ve ever been treated rudely. As to the revamped Kroger’s Fresh Fare wine department, it’s interesting that Dean Breeding thinks they will succeed this time because “I’m here” — earlier in the posting Mark pointed out that “Dean Breeding — who opened the store’s original wine department when the Stroop Road Kroger first opened in 1989 …”. So Dean was there before, and he’s back again. So what’s changed? Mark is correct that the original store had a very good selection of European wines — particularly French wines. A number of first growths, competitively priced, and some older wines you couldn’t find elsewhere. I do seem to remember that they made a conscious decision to downsize that wine department (which originally took up 2-3 times the space it did just prior to the recent remodeling). When they downsized, they had some great bargains. One I remember well was 1986 Ch. Gruaud Larose at about 1/2 the retail price at the time. I wish them luck this time, but I’m just not sure folks are routinely going to high-end wines at Kroger.
By hoorta
August 1, 2009 2:07 AM | Link to this
Well, I did a midnight run down to the new Krogs- and frankly, I’m underwhelmed. Totally agree that Trader Joe’s and DLM Oakwood have nothing to fear about the new competition. IMHO, if you’re into the super bargain blow out wines you’re still gonna do Joe’s, and DLM & Arrow have a way better selection of the high end stuff. Oh, the select meat department had some pretty good deals- too bad I couldn’t get at them late night like you can at DLM Oakwood 24\7 ditto that for the Boar’s Head Deli. BTW, DiSalvo’s beats them both on price. Personally, I found the highly touted cheese shop lacking relative to the competition. After much searching I was finally able to locate some Roquefort, at $2 a pound more than DLM is asking for LePapillion. If Kroger’s wants to see how you do an upscale megastore right, management ought to take a long tour of Jungle Jim’s, and take some notes.
By jacob
July 31, 2009 9:39 PM | Link to this
Gotta plug Eric Gerardi’s Little Store on Peter’s Pike in Butler Township. They have plenty of high end stuff, $100-200 per bottle, but also have reasonably priced stuff, too. I guarantee no one treats you like an idiot if you walk in there. Plus, I’d much rather buy from a mom&pop’s than Kroger’s. I still love Kroger’s for food, but please check this place out if you’re a serious wine lover.
By Jim T
July 31, 2009 9:37 PM | Link to this
Dean did a great job when he opened the wine department at Kroger’s in Springboro a few years ago. He has a knack of finding some good deals, close-outs, etc. I bought a fair amount of wine from him while he was there. When he left Springboro two years ago the wine department fell flat to the point I rarely go there any more. Will have to venture up to Kettering and and check things out.
By Derrick
July 31, 2009 5:37 PM | Link to this
Wine at Kroger is too rich for my blood. I like the shortie of Wild Irish Rose that I get at the Kwik n Kold on S. Pioneer in Springboro. The WIR is always nice n cold, and always cheap.
By Ed Becker
July 31, 2009 4:58 PM | Link to this
I’m not sure where Jerry shops but I’ve never had those “rude” experiences in DLM Washington Square or Oakwood. To the contrary they go out of their way to get what I want and they have ordered inexpensive cases when requested. I buy what I like be it a great $7 Spanish Tempranillo, a $15 California Zin or a $50 Italian Brunello. Most wine shops know that wine is a very personal thing.
By barry
July 31, 2009 3:22 PM | Link to this
The little wine shop I visit, Grapes in Moraine/West Carrollton, has always been great at helping me and I’ve never felt like they were snobs or looking down on me when I wind up purchasing a $9.00 bottle of wine. Jerry, perhaps you should give Grapes a try. It’s a little shop with a big selection.
By Jerry Wynn
July 31, 2009 2:39 PM | Link to this
It happens all over. And no doubt a lot (if not most) of the wine is in this price point, maybe more like $6-$15 range, are the top sellers. But a lot of the people in these shops try to up sell you to a wine that is 50-100% more (sometimes they steer me to wine that is $75-$100, no thanks.)Sure more expensive wine is better (more often than not), but the wines I buy are wine I like at certain price points. It’s not the suggestion, it is the rudeness when you tell them NO, they act like you are stupid or unsophisticated. It is not hard to tell me that a $40 bottle of wine is better than a $20 - most of the time it is true. But I will buy 2 at $20 and be happier. I can share with friends then. You want the name of wine stores that do this? Simply put, Most if not all around Dayton and some in Cincy. I just moved closer to Cincy and do business down there and visit some stores on my way back. They are not so bad.
By Jeremy
July 31, 2009 2:09 PM | Link to this
Let’s hear some examples of where you’ve experienced this, Jerry. I’m sure the vast majority of wines going out the door at the local stores are that $8 to $20 variety.
By Jerry Wynn
July 31, 2009 1:59 PM | Link to this
Hopefully you can buy wine and not get a guilt trip about purchasing reasonably priced wines. Too many of the area local stores treat you like an idiot if you don’t spend a lot of money with them. You can find perfectly good wine for $8-$20. But if you go into some area shops you get treated poorly and they act as if you are wine dumb. I drink a lot of wine and I buy wine that fits my budget. Expensive wine is for special occasions. Who can afford $100 bottles on a regular basis. Please. To be honest our area wine stores are staffed with people who are often rude.