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Friday, January 15, 2010
Is your wine cellar damaging your wines?
(Looking for the Dayton wine-tastings list? Click here.)
Here’s a column I wrote for today’s Dayton Daily News, and in the “jump” you’ll find the detailed suggestions two experts offered this reader who has concerns about whether his wine cellar is harming his wines:
A reader named James sent an email last week with a question about wine storage, to wit:
“My wife and built a wine room as part of a basement remodeling — a place to lock and store alcoholic beverages away from soon-to be-teenage-children and their friends. But the room’s temperature is not staying as stable as I would like, and it seems to have damaged some of our wines. I have seen systems to control temperature and humidity available online starting at $500 and climbing to many thousands of dollars. What should we do?”
This question hits close to home — literally. I store my wines in a room in my basement that has no temperature or humidity control, and have done so for more than 20 years. The room gets a little too warm in the summer, and a little too cold in the winter. Yet a few months ago, I opened a handful of bottles I’ve stored the longest, including wines from the 1982, 1983 and 1985 vintages that I purchased upon release, and the wines showed very well. It was obvious that my less-than-ideal storage conditions had not damaged the wines in any way.
I have always suspected that wines in general are more hardy and durable than we are led to believe, especially by those who sell expensive cellars and cellar refrigeration equipment. And I suspect — don’t know for sure, but suspect — that the problems James experienced have more to do with how the wines were stored before he purchased them, or how they were transported, than by his cellar.
But I then turned to two other wine enthusiasts who had far more expertise than I did on the subject — Dennis Hall, former owner of Fairfield Wine in Beavercreek and long-time member of the American Wine Society, and Sunny Brown, former wine retailer who is now marketing and brand manager for Vanguard Wines wine distributor in Columbus — for their take. And they came through.
Hall recounted an experiment he conducted while he was operating the wine shop a few years back. He and a group of fellow enthusiasts chose multiple bottles of two California wines, one red and one white, and stored each under a wide variety of conditions, ranging from sitting in a kitchen window sill, to duct-taped to the side of a clothes dryer, to rolling around in the back of a minivan, to baked in an oven at 100 degrees for 24 hours. They kept two bottles as control bottles, one resting comfortably in the wine shop, one in a refrigerated wine cabinet. When the wines were tasted after a year, only the window sill wine was undrinkable. The others tasted about the same.
Although Hall suspects that the other mistreated wines might have shown worse if the experiment had lasted longer than a year, his conclusion was clear: “Wines are definitely sturdier than we have been led to believe.” Most “big” wines, Hall said, can take a lot of mistreatment, which won’t immediately ruin the wines but which may shorten their life spans slightly.
Vanguard’s Brown agreed — up to a point. “But keeping any wine for an extended amount of time is a calculated risk, and everything a consumer can do to lessen those risks should at the very least be taken into account,” Brown said. “Wine has a life span,” he said, “and much like saturated fats, excessive smoking and a lack of exercise may not necessarily hurt every human the same way, it is, statistically speaking, not a good way to prolong your life. Wine can be treated in the same manner. Replace saturated fats with a warm temperature, excessive smoking with leaving the wines upright, and lack of exercise with ….Oh, you get the gist.”
Hadn’t thought of it that way.
I suggested James could buy a lot of wine with the money he would save by not buying a bunch of expensive refrigeration equipment. He seemed to like that idea.
Hall and Brown have a lot more to say about this subject. To read more about their advice, click on “continue reading” if this entry doesn’t continue immediately below, and please do offer your own suggestions by posting a comment.
From Dennis Hall:
I have never seen a study that scientifically proved that 50-55F is the ideal temperature to store wine. That temperature range is what naturally occurs in a limestone cave under the vineyards of France. It is what they had, so they used it. If the fine wine industry had developed in Mesopotamia instead of western Europe, we might be used to drinking wine stored at 80F in the sand. Who is to say that 62.5F or 48F is not the ideal temperature? I also suspect that the alcohol level, pH, acidity, and sugar content all play a role in the aging process (not just the age-ability). Cabs might prefer a few degrees colder or warmer than pinots.
Humidity in the most of the country is not an issue. However, the desert southwest with humidity below 20% for extended periods of time can significantly increase the evaporation through the cork. I have never seen a comparison of natural vs synthetic vs engineered corks on this issue but I bet there is data out there. The issue of humidity is more of factor for wine stored in porous wooden barrels than non-porous glass bottles. Again the magic number is a result of what is available naturally in the caves not some rigorous scientific analysis.
The “wet cardboard” smell may have in fact been damp musty cardboard. The writer did not mention what if any racking/shelving he was using. If he is storing wine in the original cardboard that could be the source. Most basements without adequate air flow will get a musty, moldy smell regardless of the contents. If the room is too tightly sealed it could increase the mustiness.
-Wine corks can push not only from heat but also from cold. (Liquids expand as they freeze.) If the bottle had a very high fill to begin with it does not take a huge temperature swing to push on the cork. I have seen more raised corks during the winter (even though the wine had not actually frozen) coming through the distributers truck or mail than I have during the heat of summer.
-A number of years ago, at the store we did an experiment to see how average wines hold up to a variety of conditions. We selected a good quality CA Chardonnay and Merlot/Cab blend ($12-15/bottle). One bottle of each was stored in a variety of conditions for 1 year. The conditions included 1) typical store conditions, 2) my temperature control cabinet at home, 3) a kitchen window sill (UV), 4)duct taped to the side of a clothes dryer (vibration), 5) rolling around in the back of a minivan (vibration & temp extremes), 6) put in a freezer for a week, and 7) baked in an oven at 100F for 24 hours. We then tasted the wines blind by a group of knowledgeable consumers. While there were certainly variations in the wines only the ones sitting in the window were completely undrinkable. My guess is the UV from the sun was the biggest culprit. There was no consensus among the ~10 people tasting that any one was better than the others. The ones in the store and the temperature cabinet were the brightest and freshest but not by a large margin ( according to the statistics). If we had continued the experiment out a few more years there might have been a more substantial variation. Our conclusion was wines are definitely sturdier than we have been lead to believe. These were not legendary wines that can withstand long term aging.
The reason I have temperature control cabinet is because my house is on a slab and I did not feel like digging into the wonderful Dayton clay soil. By the way I did get a room sized cooling unit on E-bay for ~$300 but it needs a Freon recharge.
One alternative to consider to the expensive wine cooling unit, is the hotel-style combination air conditioner/heater ($300-$500 new but probably cheaper on E-bay) that you have seen in the local motel. I am currently investigating how it will work in a wine room I have built into my garage. They do not go down to the 50s but they will hold a steady lower 60s. They can be vented outside or into an unheated garage or crawl space.
If you do have only a few real special bottles that need the extra protection, place them inside a heavy duty ice chest that has a tight seal/latch but keep the ice chest in the basement room. The extra insulation of the sealed cooler will slow the daily or seasonal variation in temperature. The basement is fine for the normal stuff.
In conclusion, most big wines can take a lot of a mis-treatment. But what you are doing is shortening the life expectancy. If a wine would last 7-10 years in the perfect burgundian cave then it might peak sooner and die sooner (6-9 years?). Since most wines are not designed for long aging (10+ years), then a reasonable basement closet will probably suffice; at worst the 20 year bottle will only last for 18.
A couple of additional thoughts.
-If the reader can describe the specific damages to his wine, we can probably narrow the focus of the problem. For example, if he has a high frequency of oxidized wines it would indicate long term storage at elevated temperature either in his cellar or in the distribution pipe line. Many of the distributor warehouses are certainly less insulated and climate controlled than the average house. Virtually none of the delivery trucks are temperature controlled. Also if he is buying a lot of wines on closeout, that may be an indicator of quality/storage issues. For truly collectable wines the provenance is important (see any episode of Antiques Roadshow). An original sealed wooden case shipped directly from the winery is the most valuable. Most serious collectors try to buy as close to the source as possible.
-He did not describe the types of wine he is collecting. Most wines are not intended for extended storage regardless of the conditions. Ten year old Chilean Sauvignon Blanc for $5 is not going to last no matter how expensive the cave. There is a lot of lesser quality wine being saved for a “special occasion” that should not be. These over-the-hill “treasures” have done significant damage to wines reputation/marketing and scared away a lot of inexperienced/novice drinkers.
Is the cellar room against an earth backed wall, if so is it completely below grade? Or is it against an outside wall. How close is it to the furnace, water heater, or dryer? This will result in a greater temperature variation also vibration. To check the temperature variation there are reasonable priced thermometers that will record both the high and low points. It would probably be worth the investment to see what the actual numbers are vice a subjective impression. (Brookstone sells one for $30 that records hi/low/humidity) I even know someone who built a wine closet and did not realize the radiant floor underneath could not be zoned-off. His closet held steady at 80F+. There is a very famous, expensive winery in Napa that built their earth-berm storage area over a natural hot spring so their cave must be air conditioned.
The idea of a lock to prevent underage or rampaging wino friends from attacking the cellar is a good one.
From Sunny Brown:
I would mention that he should do a couple of things:
1) Find out what the cause of the wet cardboard smell is. Could be one wine, could be another factor already in the basement. One corked wine making an entire room smell funky seems over the top to me, but dependent upon the size of the room, etc., I don’t know. so, are there any drains in the room? How about old pipes? Does it contain an outside wall? If so is he getting moisture in the room from that outside wall?
2) Corks pushing up is a sure sign of heat exposure, so you are on the right track with defining what the temp in there is. It need not be 80 or 90. Mid 70’s to 80 for an extended period of time will do damage, but each wine is different as is the quality/ sturdiness of the corks. Also, what kind of wine are we talking about here, and what was the condition of the wine before it went into the room? Were the corks already pushing up a little, and are now more noticeable? Was the wine kept near a vent of some kind?
3) If he really wants to, a quick and easy fix is a cheap window-unit A/C which can be found on Craig’s list for under $50 and maybe $40 worth of insullation from Loews. He could install the unit above the door into the room, or on a shelf inside the room and not need to do any cutting or other modifications. If he ran it on low in the summer and it is not a large room and he is not opening the door on a regular basis it should be effective enough and monthly electricity costs would be minimal- say $5 or $10 a month. Best case scenario is a quiet unit with some sort of buffer to keep it from vibrating the mess out of the wines.
There are other options such as custom made rooms with vapor barriers, high density a/c or natural cooling systems, but they tend to get pricy.
As far as the viability of older wines kept in less than perfect conditions I agree with you to a point. I also have opened a few bottles lately that I worried I had killed in my combination of apartments and houses over the years only to find them drinking quite well. However, keeping any wine for an extended amount of time (particularly 20+ years like you!) is a calculated risk, and everything a consumer can do to lessen those risks should at the very least be taken into account. Wine has a life span, and much like saturated fats, excessive smoking and a lack of excersise may not necessarily hurt every human the same way, it is statistically speaking not a good way to prolong your life. Wine can be treated in the same manner. Replace saturated fats with a warm temperature, excessive smoking with leaving them upright and lack of excersise with …. Oh you get the gist. I am sure we have both been around enough wines that were “off the mark” so to speak, and unless it is an absolutely obvious example of oxidation, TCA or what have you it can be difficult to determine which of the atmospheric variables was the culprit.
I would also ask what wines they were. High acid, low alcohol wines in general tend survive better than higher abv lower acid wines, but problems such as Volatile Acidity, sulphur, mercaptins or ascensence can be a product of winemaking as much as climate (which is what I would argue with your buddy sonomasom in response to the high abv blog) and these wines are certainly unstable from the get go.
Hope this helps.
I forwarded Dennis’ and Sunny’s emails to James, who very much appreciated the suggestions (as do I!) and is mulling his next move. In the meantime, he’s planning a trip to California wine country to replenish his cellar.
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Wines to accompany the thaw
The snow is melting, the mercury rising, and daylight is hanging around juuuust a bit longer — three good reasons to get out and taste a wine or two this weekend.
Check out the following list of wine tastings, dinners and events that comes to Uncorked courtesy of a Dayton-based wine listserv that painstakingly (and sometimes painfully) compiles it. Who would want to flee Dayton in mid-January as long as we have access to great wine events (check out tomorrow’s David Glynn wine luncheon at Jay’s) such as these?? Not me …
Click on “continue reading” if the list doesn’t appear below …
There are still tickets available! Let it Breathe” Wine Opener! January 16, 2010 at the Taj Ma Garaj $55 for Wine tasting ticket or $100.00 VIP Wine tasting ticket VIP Connoisseur tasting will be 7:00-8:00pm Wine tasting from 8:00-10:30pm. Cuisine prepared by the area’s top caterers and music by live jazz performed by Rick Evans and the Masters of Jazz “Will call” tickets are available at http://dayton.cff.org/daytonwine or call (937) 298-6906
Jay’s Kitchen Door 225 E. Sixth St. in Dayton’s Oregon Historic District, RSVP (937) 222-2892 http://www.jays.com Friday, Jan 15, 2010 4-8 pm 2007 Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet “Les Folatieres” 2007 Bernard Griffin Cabernet 2002 Chateau Les Cruzelles 2005 Chateau Balson D’Issan 2006
Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 1-6 pm 2006 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 2006 Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah 2005 Tenuta IL Bruciato 2004 Chateau Poujeaux
Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 12:30 pm $65 RSVP required Winter Wine Luncheon Guest Chef David Glynn Luncheon European Mixed Greens topped with Smoked Trout “crumbles”, roasted peppers, haricot verts and chopped egg with gruyere in a vinaigrette 2007 Andrew Rich Roussane, Columbia Valley
Fresh swordfish “stuffed” with pancetta and fresh herbs over creamy polenta and topped with a Pinot Noir cream sauce 2006 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2007 R. Stuart & Co. Pinot Noir Autograph, Willamette Valley
Grilled lamb over smashed Yukon Gold potatoes 2006 Andrew Rich Tabula Rasa Red, Columbia Valley
Roasted center sirloin of beef over country ham with wild mushroom potato “hash” 2006 Andrew Rich Coup d’Etat, Columbia Valley
Chocolate Chestnut Torte with chocolate dipped strawberry 2007 Andrew Rich Gewurtztraminer Ice Wine, Oregon & Washington
Arrow Far Hills - Kettering Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 11 am - 4 pm 2007 ERRAZURIZ MAX RESERVA MERLOT 2007 TURN FOUR NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2005 FINCA SANDOVAL 2006 MOULIN D’ISSAN BORDEAUX 2008 CLOS DU BOIS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007 VITIANO 2008 CHATEAU LA GREFFIERE 2006 QUIVARA DRY CREEK GRENACHE 2002 ROBERT MONDAVI PRIVATE RESERVE NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2006 VEGA SINDOA CHARDONNAY
Dorothy Lane Markets Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood Friday, Jan 15, 2010, 5:00-8:00 pm Blanca Nieva ‘08 Omrah ’06 Unoaked Chardonnay Gerard Raphet ’06 Bourgogne Peique Tinto ’08 Mencia Tall Poppy ’04 Petit Verdot Earthquake ’05 Cabernet Brown Bag
Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 2-6 pm Jermann ’08 Pinot Grigio Ramey ’05 Carneros Chardonnay A to Z ’07 Pinot Noir Le Macioche ’05 Rosso di Montalcino Northstar ’05 Merlot Chateau Poitevin ’05 Medoc Bonus Bottle!
DLM Washington Square Thursday Jan 14, 2010 5-8 pm Chehalen Pinot Gris 2007 Chimney Rock Elevage 2006 Penner Ash Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 Chateau Greysac Medoc 2005 Dominio De Atauta Ribera Del Duero 2004 Bonus Wine
Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 12-5 pm Jakoby Riesling Kabinett 2007 Finca Riposso Bonarda 2006 Finca Riposso Cabernet 2007 Paso A Paso Red 2008 Can Blau Red 2007 Alto Moncayo Grenache 2006
Beers Quercus Vitis Humulus Weyerbacher Simcoe Ipa Ayinger Weizen Bock Bear Republic Tribute ale Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout Breckenridge Imperial Porter
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, Jan 15, 2010, 3:00-7:00 pm 2008 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2004 Mount Eden Chardonnay 2006 Mount Eden Chardonnay 2004 Fess Parker Ben Nacido Pinot Noir 2006 Masserie Pisari Negroamaro 2007 Penner Ash Dussin Pinot Noir
Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 2007 Brewer Clifton Mt Carmel Chardonnay 2005 Chateau Haut Monplaisir Cahors 2007 La Posta Malbec 2005 Anderson’s Conn Valley Cabernet 2004 Castel Giocondo Brunello
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook 848-2161 Tuesday - Thursday noon - 7:00 pm, Friday 11:30 - 8 pm Saturday noon - 7:00 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Wines for the week Jan 15 - Jan 21 Line Shack 2007 Roussane Adelsheim 2007 Pinot Gris D’Arenberg’s ‘Stump Jump’ 2008 GSM Le Lapin ‘Multiplicity’ Murphy Goode 2006 Cabernet
Beer: Unibroue
Saturday Snacks! Beef Brisket with Cold Slaw Wednesday Soup Night Jan 20, 2010: Italian Sausage Stew
Rue Dumaine www.ruedumainerestaurant.com Tuesday, Jan 19, 2010 5-7 pm 2007 VELETA Vijiriega 2006 VELETA Tempranillo 2006 VELETA Noladós
A Taste of Wine 90 S. Main St Miamisburg, OH 937.247-1120 www.atasteofwine.org This week’s wines: Barton & Guestier Bistro Wine Chardonnay Fun House Pinot Grigio Delaille Domaine Salvard Cheverny White Graff Family Mouvedere Picada P15 Chateau Langlet Graves Dante Cabernet Sauvignon
Jan 14 - TASTING: Wine & Spicy Foods January 21 - Australian Wine Tasting
Feb 2, 9, 16, 23 - Uncorking the Mysteries of Wine with Lauren Wiethe Register through Parks & Recreation, 866 - 4532, $30 registration fee plus $10 each week Week 1: Basic & Popular varietals Week 2: Sparklings & Alternative varietals Week 3: Imported Wines & Labels Week 4: Wine & Food Pairing
Grapes Wine Lounge. 68 West Franklin Street, Centerville 238-5706 Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 and Tuesday, Dec 22, 2010 5:30 - 7:30 pm and 8:00pm - 10:00 pm Taste any wine from the wine menu
“Wine Lovers In Dayton” meetup group. Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 4:30pm-6:30pm $26 RSVP 238-5706 Winter Wines and Appetizers Dorothy Lane Market School of Cooking Mulled Red Wine with Spicy Roasted Nuts Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc with Smoked Salmon Mousse in Phylo Cups Chateau St. Michelle Chardonnay with Crab and Cheese Quiche Diseno Malbec with Roasted Mushrooms stuffed with Feta, Spinach, and Bacon Newman’s Own Cabernet Sauvignon with Spicy Glazed Meatballs
Bruning’s Wine Cellar 1481 N Fairfield Rd., Beavercreek (937) 426-4950 www.brunings.com Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 1-4PM 2008 Bergevin Lane Calico White 2007 Stuhlmuller Chardonnay 2007 Mercer Estates Merlot 2007 Mercer Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Novy Family Vineyards Sonoma County Syrah Samuel Smith Taddy Porter is the featured beer
Wednesday, Jan 20, 2010 5-8PM 2008 Massone Gavi 2008 La Spinetta Moscato d’Asti 2005 Domenico Clerico Barbera ‘Trevigne’ 2004 Manzone Barolo ‘Le Gramolere’ 2005 La Spinetta ‘Pin’ Wychwood Hobgoblin is the featured beer
Rumbleseat Wine 5853 Far Hills Ave. Dayton, Ohio (937) 938-9801 Weekly Wines and Saturday Jan 16, 2010 10 - 8 pm Red Wines: Girard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon… Ortman Eddy Cuvée… Borra Vineyards 2:30 a.m… Sacco Nebbiolo D’ Alba.. Red Mud Shiraz…
WHITE WINES Solitude Chardonnay… Molly Dooker Verdelho… Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc… LaMura Grillo… Fun House Pinot Grigio..
Kroger Kettering Fresh Fare Friday, Jan 15, 2010 January Food and Wine Extravaganza. Purchase tickets in advance in Wine Shoppe 11 am and 7 pm daily, 937-299-7500 Two seatings available, 5pm- 6:30 pm and 7pm- 8:30 pm Four wines and over twelve appetizers
Saturday, 1/16 2pm- 6pm William Hill Napa Valley Collection Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Sunday,1/17 2pm- 6pm Pepperwood Grove Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 4432 Walnut Street (937) 320-9548 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com Wednesday, Jan 20, 2010 5-8 Wine Tasting in the bar SHANNON RIDGE Chardonnay, Lake County, 2007 ARTEZIN Zinfandel, Mendocino County, 2007 HOOK & LADDER Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, 2005 TRENTADUE Red Wine “Old Patch Red”, Sonoma County, 2005
Bella Vino Wine Merchant & Bar, Springboro, OH 45066 937-748-3807 www.bellavinomerchants.com Tuesday-Saturday, all day from 11:30 to close Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday: B.R. Cohn Chardonnay (2006) Sonoma County, California. Trinchero Chardonnay (2007) Santa Barbara County, California. Four Vines Syrah (2005) Paso Robles, California. Bighorn Cellars Syrah (2003) Napa Valley, California. Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles (2005) Cotes du Rhone, France.
Thursday and Saturday: Graziano Wines from Tramonte & Sons. 4th generation producers from Mendocino County, California. Chenin Blanc (2007) Zinfandel (2005) Eddie Graziano Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel (2004) Petite Sirah (2005) Coro (2005)
Next Week Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday: Riesling and Pinot Noir Next Week Thursday and Saturday: Chilean Whites and Italian Reds
January 19, 2010 Food and Wine Pairing Classes with Root Vegetables 101. Classes are limited to 16 people. RSVP Required.
The Winds Cafe RSVP (937) 767-9441 Closed Jan 1 - Jan 14, 2010, reopening Jan 15, 2010
Cork and Vine Wine Market & Lounge 3452 York Commons Blvd. 45414 937.387.0044 WHITES Kinkead Ridge Riesling 7 Daughters Gabiano Pinot Grigio Benziger
Reds Solane Santi Valpo Seghesio Zinfandel Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Boarding Pass Shiraz
Special Features Samantha Star Pinot Noir 3 Blind Moose Riesling Simi Zinfandel
Miami Valley Wine & Spirits 943 W. Main St. Tipp City (937) 667-3614 Beer Tasting Friday January 15, 2010 6-9 pm Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port Tasting Tasting 10, 20, 30, and 40 year old Tawny Ports
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, Jan 15, 2010 4:30-7:30 pm and Saturday, Jan 16, 3-6 pm Wines for Your Wedding, 3 whites and 3 reds
Thursday, January 21, 2010 Perfecting your Palate Class 6:30 - 8 pm $20 Flavor component tasting. Registration required.
Jungle Jim’s RSVP 513 674 6008 Friday, January 15, 2010 7pm-9pm $25.00 per person Beer Tasting Event at the Oscar Center Sierra Nevada and Dogfish Head Collaboration
Saturday, Jan 16, 2010 1pm - 3pm RSVP Required $10 A Walkabout of Values in Jungle Jim’s Wine Department
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