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MIAMI TWP., Montgomery County — The entry of national chain restaurants into the Dayton-area market in the last year has already covered the American casual dining, Italian and steakhouse genres, among others.

Next comes seafood, with the Bonefish Grill — part of the same corporation that owns Outback Steakhouse, Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar, and Carrabba's Italian Grill — having thrown open its doors on the Dayton Mall's front porch in early May, to be followed in late summer or early fall by Oregon-based McCormick & Schmick's seafood restaurant, under construction at The Greene.

Bonefish gets many things right, especially on its "Starters" menu.

The excellent Bang Bang Shrimp ($8.30) are lightly breaded and fried, then tossed with a spicy, creamy sauce that has an appealing and sneaky heat. The portions are generous, so plan on sharing — or, simply add a salad for $4.90 and call it a meal.

The Bacon-Wrapped Atlantic Sea Scallops ($9.90) arrive still translucent and silken. The Maryland Crab Cake Appetizer ($11) offers two cakes made almost entirely with lump crab meat, and thankfully, little else. They're plated alongside a pool of green horseradish-infused sauce with a few ribbons of spicy red sauce nestled within the horseradish mixture. (The crab cakes also are available in a dinner portion for $16).

The grilled fish menu changes with availability, but may include swordfish, tuna, sea bass, trout, salmon and Arctic Char. The fish is described on the menu as being "seasoned and cooked over a wood-burning grill," but curiously shows little evidence of the seasoning or the smoke-enhanced flavoring on the plate. The flavor is apparently meant to come from the sauces, which include a lemon butter sauce that thickens and coagulates as it cools; an olive-oil-based Virgin Mediterranean sauce that contains an abundance of fresh thyme and salt; and a colorful, if slightly sweet, Warm Mango Salsa with onion, pepper and cilantro.

Bonefish gets it all right with its Walleye Piccata ($18.40), with a generously thick walleye fillet breaded and sauteed, then topped with lemon butter with tangy capers. From the side dishes, the creamy Potatoes Au Gratin over the Island Rice was colorful on one visit, monochromatic the next and bland both times.

Desserts include a pudding-like Creme Brulee with a thin-but-crackling crust, and a decadently rich Chocolate Macadamia Nut Brownie Cake with raspberry sauce and vanilla ice cream.

The wine list offers more than 40 selections, nearly all of them available by the glass — a nice touch. Highlights include a King Estate Pinot Gris from Oregon ($7.90) and the Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Chardonnay ($11).

Service is attentive and competent, although the restaurant botched the pacing of our meals during one visit, with our entrees arriving at the table right on the heels of our appetizers. The restaurant appears to have opened strong, with short waits even on weeknights, though full dinner service is available in the bar.

how to go

WHAT: Bonefish Grill.

WHERE: 2818 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, just north of the Dayton Mall along Ohio 725.

HOURS: 4 to 10:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until

11:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and until 10 p.m. Sundays. (937) 428-0082.

COST: Appetizers $8 to $11; entrees $13 to $23.

MORE INFO: (937) 428-0082.

DISHES TO TRY: Bang Bang Shrimp ($8.30), Bacon-Wrapped Sea Scallops ($9.90), Maryland Crab Cakes ($11 appetizer, $16 entree), Walleye Piccata ($18.40), Chocolate Macadamia Nut Brownie Cake ($5.50).

Contact this reporter

at (937) 225-2258 or mfisher@DaytonDailyNews.com.

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