BEAVERCREEK — Don't suggest to Ismail Altinok — manager or Pasha Grill at The Greene — that he must adjust traditional Turkish recipes to suit western tastes.

"We don't Americanize anything," Altinok said. "It's great food, people love it, so why change it?"

Turkish cuisine is a true melting pot of flavors, thanks to the country's status as the geographic and cultural bridge between Asia and Europe, and Pasha Grill's owners and chefs are committed to serving it up as authentically as possible, Altinok said.

The restaurant is the third of its kind to occupy the spot in The Greene that once housed Café Istanbul and later the Estilo Grill, both of which closed. Little has changed in the interior space, and the menu is similar to both of its predecessors. But the food — based on two dinnertime visits last month — is better.

The restaurant offers an interesting concept for lunch: a three-course meal for $9.95. The first course is a choice of eight appetizers, such as hummus or Mercimek Corba, or lentil soup; a choice of seven entrees, such as Chicken Adana Kebab or Gyro sandwich; and a dessert of the day. Lunch diners also can order from the dinner menu.

And Pasha Grill's dinner menu is impressive. Among the appetizers, Hummus ($5.50) is one of the better versions around town, pureed smooth, with none of its components (chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil) dominating the taste. The restaurant's version of Falafel ($5.95) comes out crispy and hot, with a moist interior tinged green by parsley and dill.

For the entree, the restaurant's kebabs are a reliable bet, with the Doner Kebab ($13.95)— marinated ground lamb, beef and veal, gyro-style — a definite highlight (Altinok said the Doner Kebab meat is ground and marinated in-house). Order it with yogurt sauce over toasted garlic bread for an extra level of decadence for $2 more.

Lahana Sarma ($12.95) wraps cabbage leaves around a flavorful stuffing of ground lamb, beef, herbs and rice, and is served with a tomato-yogurt sauce. It might change your mind about cabbage rolls. The Grilled Shrimp ($15.95) dinner consists of a robust portion of properly grilled and skewered shrimp marinated in garlic sauce, served with a pile of green salad dressed with an oil-and-vinegar-based dressing. It's a dish for shrimp lovers.

Several Turkish desserts, from the familiar Baklava to Sutlac (rice pudding) to Keskul (almond pudding), are also available for $5.95.

The restaurant boasts a surprising wine list that includes several Turkish selections. The Kavaklidere Select White ($8.95) and Kavaklidere Select Red (both $8.95 a glass) are both excellent, full-bodied with intense, well-balanced flavors.

But if you really want intensity, take the plunge with a house cocktail called Yeni Raki, or lion's milk ($5.95) — a powerful blast of anise-infused alcohol that you'll feel in your toes from the first sip. Altinok advises it's a drink best sipped over a lengthy meal with friends — as in Turkey.

CONTACT this reporter at (937) 225-2258 or mfisher@DaytonDailyNews.com.

HOW TO GO:

WHAT: Pasha Grill

WHERE: 72 Plum St., at The Greene, in Beavercreek

HOURS:11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays

COST: Lunch: $9.95 for three-course meal; dinner entrees, range from $16.95 to $12.95.

DISHES TO TRY: Hummus ($5.50), Falafel ($5.95), Doner Kebab ($13.95), Lahana Sarma ($13.95), Grilled Shrimp ($16.95)

MORE INFO: (937) 429-9000 or www.pashagrill.com