Rookies can learn the ropes of rock climbing in indoor gyms

BELAY IS USE of a rope to protect a climber against a fall.

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By Debbie Juniewicz, Contributing Writer 11:29 AM Wednesday, November 30, 2011

It all started with a chance meeting in Montana.

“I was at Glacier National Park, and I met a guy who was looking for someone to climb with,” Karl Williamson said.

While Williamson had never gone rock climbing, the Dayton man decided to give it a try — and 10,000 feet later, he was hooked.

“I was 19 and crazy and flying by the seat of my pants,” he said smiling.

Almost three decades later, Williamson is still hooked and helping others discover the sport he loves at the Urban Krag Climbing Center in Dayton’s Oregon Historic District. Williamson opened the climbing center, which features 8,000 square feet of textured and sculptured vertical terrain with heights ranging from 28 to 56 feet, in an abandoned church 15 years ago. The business has been a labor of love as the 48-year-old has done much of the building renovation himself.

An estimated 25 to 50 climbers work out daily at the Urban Krag, which is one of several local indoor climbing venues. There are frequently a few wary souls peering in from the windows as well.

“We have pretty good size windows, so they get a good look,” Williamson said. “Sometimes we’ll go out and tell them they can come in and give it a try, but some people are too intimidated. Personally, I think it’s great facing fears, but we’re never going to force anyone to do anything they don’t want to do.”

IS CLIMBING FOR ME?

Who can climb? The answer is almost everyone, from grade-schoolers to retirees.

A certain amount of aerobic fitness and upper body strength is necessary, but climbs can be as simple or as challenging as you desire.

“Like anything else you do, it helps if you are in better physical condition,” Williamson said. “But you don’t have to be a tri-athlete.”

Size, however, can be a prohibitive factor. The extra-large harnesses at the Urban Krag are 52 inches, and Williamson has had to turn people away who are too large to fit into a harness.

CLIMBING 101

While Williamson got his feet wet in the splendor of a national park, an indoor climbing center has many benefits for rookie climbers.

The environment is controlled, weather is never an issue, the equipment is all inspected and climbers are supervised.

“It’s not pure rock climbing, but you get the basics, lay the groundwork and learn about safety,” Williamson said. “It’s the absolute best way to start.”

Before an aspiring climber can attempt to conquer one of the walls at the Urban Krag they must first complete the belay certification. Climbers receive safety instruction and must demonstrate their understanding of safety protocols and procedures before climbing.

A COMPLETE WORKOUT

Initially, the forearms and upper body will likely get the most noticeable workout, but the whole body can benefit from climbing.

“As people get more into the sport, they can really improve their core strength,” Williamson said.

Muscle groups need to work together in synergy when climbing, which helps increase coordination.

But it isn’t just a physical workout. The sport helps the body and mind work together to make decisions, plan moves and determine capabilities. And studies have shown that climbing strengthens problem-solving skills in children and increases self-confidence. Climbing in a rock gym also has a social component to it.

“Climbing is not for everyone, but it definitely helps out on the gray ugly days,” Williamson said.

Talk the talk – Climbing terminology

From the Great Outdoors.com

Aid climbing: Climbing by pulling or resting on gear that is either placed or fixed into the rock. This is in contrast to free climbing. Aid routes are also called “nail ups.”

Anchor: The point where a climber’s rope is securely attached to the rock.

Belay: Use of a rope to protect a climber against a fall. A climber can be belayed by another person, or be climbing alone, using an advanced technique called a self-belay.

Boulder: A style of climbing that involves climbing only at a height the climber feels comfortable jumping to the ground.

Carabiner: An oval or D-shaped link of lightweight aluminum or alloy that serves as the climber’s all-purpose connector.

Crag: A climbing area, usually a cliff.

Figure eight: A device shaped like an 8 used for belaying and rappelling.

Free climbing: Climbing using only hands and feet to move upwards. Unlike aid climbing, free climbing uses the rope and gear only as protection against a fall, not as a ladder for upward movement. This method also stresses the use of gear that is temporarily placed in the rock for protection by the leader, and then removed by the second climber.

Pitch: The section of rock between belays. Generally, pitches are no longer than the length of the rope (165 feet). Many sport climbs are set up so that their anchors are only the length of a standard 165-foot rope from the ground, so that climbers need only a single rope in order to be lowered or to rappel off the climb.

Rappel: Using a rope to descend from a climb. Modern rappels are generally done with a rappel device, which creates friction on the rope to help control the descent.

Top roping: Pre-protecting a climb from above. The belay for a top roped climb can either be from the top of the pitch or the bottom. Climbs can be led, then top roped or protected by hiking to the top and fixing the anchor.

Traditional: Traditional rock climbing involves the use of ropes and temporary anchors to add a degree of safety to the sport. As the lead climber ascends the rock, he or she inserts of an assortment of metal anchoring devices, known collectively as protection, into the cracks and crevasses at points that may be anywhere from a few feet to several yards apart, depending on the difficulty of the route.

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