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A look under the buns at area's newest burger joints

Staff photo by Jim Witmer Buckeye Smashburger with smash fries, fried pepper rings and a Haagan-Dazs chocolate milk shake at Smashburger.

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Staff photo by Jim Witmer Cheeseburger and fries at Five Guys Burgers and Fries.

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By Mark Fisher and Alexis Larson
Staff Writers Updated 1:37 PM Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Chris Mastin, one of the franchise owners of the new Five Guys Burgers and Fries, said neither he nor his partners had ever heard of Smashburger before they learned the chain would be opening its first Dayton-area restaurant just down the street from their new venture on Miamisburg-Centerville Road.

As fate and construction schedules would have it, the two burger joints opened within a few days of each other in mid-October, a scant 1.4 miles apart.

The concepts of the pair of new-to-Dayton burger chains are not identical, but the similarities — and the proximity — certainly do invite comparisons. During visits to both restaurants, we overheard diners debating the merits of each and arguing which was better. Each chain’s future expansion plans — both will open new burger shops near the University of Dayton, among other locations — will offer more opportunities for such debates. So we thought we’d join the fray.

One thing that can’t be disputed: We in the Dayton region love our burgers, and we flip our respective patties when we find ones we like. Both Five Guys and Smashburger have opened strong — lines have been long, and business brisk.

Five Guys’ Mastin said of his Smashburger competitor, “I think there’s room for both.”

Hard to argue that. Here’s a little taste of what we found during multiple visits to each burger joint.

Five Guys Burgers and Fries

Basics: 1057 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, Washington Twp. [Map]; open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; (937) 428-4897; www.fiveguys.com

History: Started in Virginia in 1986, now has 450 locations in more than 30 states.

Dayton-area expansion plans: The second Dayton-area Five Guys is scheduled to open in early January in Beavercreek near the Mall at Fairfield Commons, and a third restaurant is slated to open near the University of Dayton in early spring.

Our take: This is straightforward and basic, in a good way. Five Guys is what it is and doesn’t pretend for a second to be anything more. Let the complimentary peanuts at the entrance — shells are later discarded on the floor — serve as proof. And don’t go for any other reason than the well-made burgers and thick-cut, peel-on fries. The burgers are juicy and well made, using never-frozen ground beef. The portions of fries are extremely generous — one regular-size order at $2.59 might feed two, and a large order at $4.19 definitely would. You will not leave this place hungry.

Other pluses: All toppings are free, and you can customize your burger with some slightly upscale options such as grilled mushrooms, green peppers, jalapeno peppers and A-1 or barbecue sauce. A sign on the wall tells customers what part of the country each day’s potatoes hail from — a nice touch. The Cajun-style fries bring some serious heat.

Minuses: Expect a line. Those thick-cut fries that are so good fresh from their peanut-oil hot bath seem to turn limp and soggy faster than other fries, so eat them while they’re hot. The burger topping touted as “grilled onions” didn’t see the grill long enough to break a sweat. And the Kosher Style Hot Dog was nothing special, and its bun was, well, gummy.

The interior: Again, basic. Think red, white and airy. This is an interior that seems to be a minimalist’s take on a mash-up between a sparse cafeteria and a 1950s diner. There are newspaper and magazine clippings posted around the restaurant singing Five Guys’ praises so that by the time you reach the register, your expectations are sky high.

The bill: A double-patty cheeseburger will set you back $4.99 (The single-patty cheeseburgers are listed as “little” burgers on the menu, and cost $3.59.) An average bill is around $8 per person.

Smashburger

Basics: 2315 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, Miami Twp. [Map]; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily; (937) 938-9888; www.smashburger.com

History: The Denver-based company was founded in 2007 and had 21 restaurants nationwide in August, although company officials project that they will have 40 units by the end of the year and 100 by the end of 2010, according to Nation’s Restaurant News.

Dayton-area expansion plans: The next Smashburger location will open in early February 2010 near UD. Smashburger’s local franchisee group Rodenkirch Management LLC is scheduled to open 10 to 12 restaurants in the Dayton and Cincinnati region by 2012.

Our take: Looking to take that basic burger to the next level with a little upscale sophistication but don’t want to go to a fancy high-end restaurant to do it? Look no further. The chain named after the method of cooking — smashing patties — has a most excellent offering in the Buckeye burger, which easily won us over with its fried banana pepper rings and haystack onions atop a cheeseburger with mayo, tomato and lettuce. Burgers are available in one-third and half-pound portions. Upgrades include garlic mushrooms, smoked bacon or even a fried egg. And the toasted buns make for a better burger.

Other pluses: The Classic Smashchicken sandwich is also a winner, seared and served with red onion, pickles, lettuce, tomato and mayo, on a butter-toasted multigrain bun. Veggie frites — fried asparagus spears, carrot sticks and green beans — are a colorful alternative to the shoestring-style french fries. The hot dogs, from Hebrew National beef hot dogs, are pretty good, too. You’ll also find one of the best chocolate milkshakes you’ll find at any casual/fast restaurant, made from Haagen-Dazs ice cream. You also can drink a beer or a glass of wine with your burger. Salads also are offered — but we were too fixated on other menu items to give them a try.

Minuses: The Spicy Baja burger shows why guacamole doesn’t cut it as a burger topping, and the rosemary flavor is awfully hard to detect in the special “Smashfries.”

The interior: Retro cool casual with chic modern touches. Bold red booths with nice cushion and a patio that’s too late to enjoy this year but should be bustling come summer 2010.

The bill: Slightly more than Five Guys. You can probably get away with around $9-$10 a person, but it could easily be more if you start succumbing to temptation (did we mention that $3.99 milkshake?).

Final verdict

Both Smashburger and Five Guys are worth trying. If you crave simplicity, Five Guys is your place. If you like lots of menu options, you’ll favor Smashburger. After comparing them, though, head back to some of our well-established local haunts like Voltzy’s in Moraine and the Hamburger Wagon in Miamisburg to do some, um, additional research.

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