Shen’s Szechuan & Sushi: Reasons to find this hidden gem


Want to go?

What: Shen's Szechuan & Sushi

Where: 7580 Poe Ave., Vandalia

Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Saturday noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9 p.m.

More info: Website | Facebook | (937) 898-3860

VANDALIA — Tucked behind restaurant row on Miller Lane at the end of Poe Avenue sits a restaurant that’s easy to forget about because it’s so hidden and out of the way.

Shen’s Szechuan & Sushi — formerly Mr. Lee’s Fine Dining — had a name change and menu update in mid-2012 when the former owner sold the business to Peter Song and Shen Xie, who served as the executive sushi chef at Mr. Lee’s for four years before purchasing the restaurant.

THE ATMOSPHERE

The plates, tea pots, cups and front door still have Mr. Lee’s name emblazoned on them, so there’s a disconnect there, but despite confusion over the name, it’s still one of of the more attractive independent restaurants in the area.

Shen’s is well lit with striking contemporary appointments including a large glass water wall feature, ample seating and an expansive bar area that can accommodate a larger happy hour crew. It features a modern Asian upscale decor with pops of red and beautiful vases and art pieces dotting the dining room.

On repeat visits, the dining room seemed to be relatively open giving it a more romantic, quiet feel that’s just what a date night calls for. Based on what we observed, groups of family or friends would also be likely to be able to find seating without much notice, which is something to consider — especially on weekends.

THE MENU

The number of menu options are just as impressive as the decor.

Drinks

There's a full bar with a satisfying wine, beer and cocktail list and a really wonderful selection of Sake to choose from if you are feeling adventurous. Choices range from an unfiltered Sho Chiku Bai ($9) that is quite refreshing all the way up to a bottle of Chokaisan Junmai Daiginjo ($85) which, although too rich for my blood, I appreciated seeing present on the menu.

Sushi

The sushi is fresh and definitely worth ordering either as an appetizer to share or as a meal.

The robust Dayton roll ($12.50) features a lobster salad over a shrimp tempura roll topped with fish roe for a full seafood experience. The Miso Sake roll ($12.95) features spicy salmon, cucumber and Japanese mint leaf topped with a seared salmon, hot miso sauce and scallions. Many of the more than 30 specialty rolls featured are very rich, many times compounded by being deep fried or containing deep fried proteins, but there are also regular rolls, vegetarian rolls and sashimi to choose from.

The restaurant offers substantial sushi and sashimi combos for large parties including the love boat ($50 for two rolls, 12 pieces of nigiri and nine pieces of sashimi), the party boat ($75 for three rolls, 16 pieces of nigiri and 12 pieces of sashimi) and the Titanic ($100 for four rolls, 20 pieces of nigiri and 16 pieces of sashimi).

Starters

If sushi isn’t your thing, there’s plenty more to look over and consider, starting with appetizers.

The scallion pancake ($3.95), a spicy peppercorn calamari ($6.95) or six pan-fried dumplings that you can order Szechuan-style for more heat ($5.95) made with pork, ginger and scallions are all great choices to start.

The soups are definitely worth trying. Our favorites were a flavorful hot and sour soup ($2.95) and a delicious sizzling rice soup for two ($6.95).

Entrees

The smoked duck ($17.95) and peppercorn fish ($16.95) were stand-outs. I didn't care for the plum sauce the duck was served with, which I ordered on the side, but the pile of tender meat from half of a full duck had a great flavor thanks to hours spent being smoked over tea and complier wood. It was a generous portion for the price and had crispy, carmelized skin on the outside that added a nice crunch to the supple dense meat. The Peppercorn Fish was flavorful with a punch of heat to compliment the tender fish.

An order of the mala green beans fried with pickled cabbage, garlic and hot chili pepper ($8.95) was missing flavor and fell flat. The beef we had on repeated visits was rubbery and also lacking in taste. While we didn’t try the Ma Po tofu ($9.95), it was a nice option to have on the menu for vegans and vegetarians.

The pot of Jasmine Tea ($2) or glass of coconut punch ($2.95) is a great option for those not interested in a cocktail.

The biggest drawback to dining at Shen’s has to be the service. During our visits, the service was lackluster and the staff seemed to have little to no knowledge of the dishes or drinks featured on the menu. It’s hard to make great choices when your server doesn’t seem to have any information or feedback to offer.

That said, there’s still enough Shen’s has going for it to draw me back for more.

Dayton Eats looks at the regional food stories and restaurant news that make mouths water. Menu updates, special dinners and events, new chefs, interesting new dishes and culinary adventures. Do you know of new exciting format changes, specials, happy hours, restaurant updates or any other tasty news you think is worth a closer look? E-mail Alexis Larsen at alexis.e.larsen@hotmail.com with the information and we will work to include it in future coverage.

About the Author