DaytonDailyNews.com

Judith Bleses of Kettering had her "Grrrr" moment a few years ago when a male server in a decidedly upscale Chicago restaurant tried to foist a glass of utterly flat (but quite expensive) Champagne on her.

For Ann Boucher of Columbus, it was the time five years ago when a male wine-shop clerk told her she "just wouldn't understand" the bottle of fine red Burgundy she was inquiring about — even though she had visited that very winery and chatted with the winemaker only a month before.

Nancy Bentley's experience came when she and her husband, Ron — both of whom operate Kinkead Ridge winery in Ripley — walked into a Michigan winery's tasting room, and the employee handed a tasting glass to her husband — but not to her.

"Can you spell S-E-E-T-H-I-N-G?" Nancy said?

For a gender that purchases more than half of all wine sold in America, women often get little respect in the wine world. Anecdotes abound of subtle and not-so-subtle condescension from wine shop and restaurant employees such as those described above. Some oenophiles and industry members seem to want to hang the equivalent of a "men only" sign on the clubhouse door.

But women are finding creative ways of fighting back against the patronizing attitudes, from designating those retailers that cater to their needs to opening their own wine shops.

California-based Women & Wine last month launched a "Trusted Source" awards program to recognize wine retailers whose stores create an atmosphere "conducive to both novice and experienced wine buyers."

"With so much choice in the marketplace, we want to inspire women to drink the best wine for their budget — whether it's $10 or $100," says Julie Brosterman, founder and chief executive of Women & Wine.

"Our 'Trusted Source' retailer designation is a way for consumers to know that the shop has staff willing to answer even the most basic questions, make recommendations in their price range — and that the culture of the shop is to build a trusted long-term relationship with their customers."

The organization's Web site (www.womenwine.com) puts it in starker gender terms: "Traditionally, the world of wine, from making and teaching about it, to shopping for wine in stores and restaurants, has been male dominated, a 'men's thing.' "

And while that may be true nationwide, the trend shows signs of shifting in the Miami Valley, where some of the most recently opened wine shops in the region were launched by women, including Grapes of Ruth in Springboro, Cindy's Wine Cellar (now Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar) in Bellbrook and The Winds Wine Cellar in Yellow Springs.

"I think I have more women customers than men," said Ruth Hagedorn, Grapes of Ruth's founder and owner. "Women want to learn about wine, and they don't want to be intimidated. They want to feel comfortable. They've encountered the attitude elsewhere that they must spend more money to get good wine."

Cindy Hill, who founded Cindy's Wine Cellar (now Cuvee) and later sold it to Jessica Paringer and Chris Cavender, said she wanted to create a wine shop that would be comfortable for customers who wanted to learn more about wine.

"I had women tell me, 'Wow, we can come in here and have a glass of wine and not be made to feel stupid,' " Hill said.

Paringer said that atmosphere has remained after the ownership change. "We always seem to have more women than men in here," she said.

Boucher — who had the "you probably wouldn't understand that wine" experience in a Chicago-area wine shop — has a unique perspective on the wine world: She worked in the wholesale end of the wine business for several years, often pouring at drop-in tastings in Dayton-area wine shops and now operates her own retail wine shop called Serendipity in Columbus, where she sets up in-home wine tastings.

Boucher says women have a thirst for wine knowledge.

"It's just a reality: A lot more women are coming forward, organizing their own wine-tasting parties and wanting to learn more," Boucher said.

Boucher chose the path of nonconfrontation when she encountered the dismissive wine store clerk's attitude, refraining from pointing out to the man that she knew that Burgundy producer quite a bit better than he did.

But Bleses, who was served the flat Champagne, sent it back, even though the server tried to tell her the wine had few bubbles because it was a well-aged Champagne. She pointed out that she has tasted that very vintage several times in restaurants and at home, and it was plenty bubbly each time.

"Clean your glasses, open a new bottle and see what the result is," she told the server.

Bleses and her husband, Tony, heard the telltale pop of a Champagne cork, and out came a glass, filled with bubbles.

Contact this reporter at (937) 225-2258 or mfisher@Dayton

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