DaytonDailyNews.com

Families reluctant to shell out the big bucks for premium cuts of beef and pork are finding new alternatives in their meat case.

And the folks who market and sell meats are promising there's relief on the way in the form of more new "value cuts" that will help hold down grocery bills while still filling the families' bellies.

Traditionally, the less-expensive cuts of beef and pork were tough and high in fat, unless cooked by braising or some other "low-and-slow" method that can turn cuts such as beef chuck roast, brisket or pork shoulder into family-pleasing and inexpensive meals (we include a delicious low-and-slow pork shoulder recipe).

But some of the newer cuts of beef in particular don't take hours to cook. And they yield flavorful, satisfying results at a fraction of the cost of high-end cuts such as beef tenderloin, New York Strip steaks, porterhouses and T-bones.

The folks who raise cattle for beef have been the most creative — or aggressive, anyway — in finding and promoting relatively new "value cuts" of beef with names such as Hanger steaks, Tri-Tip roasts, Flat-Iron steaks and Petite Tender roasts or medallions. Some of these cuts — previously relegated for use in ground beef — were identified in a 2000 "Muscle Profiling Study" funded in part by beef producers that identified cuts that had potential to be marketed and sold separately.

But not all of these new cuts have made it to local meat cases — at least not under the names promoted by the National Cattlemen's Beef Association and the Ohio Beef Council. That can cause confusion for consumers — and occasionally for meat-department employees, too, who may know the cuts by a different name.

But these new cuts are worth the extra effort for both their flavor and their value.

"They have the best of both worlds, because you can cook them like a tender steak, but they still have the full, beefy flavor of roasts," said Carrie Walters, corporate chef for Dorothy Lane Market who teaches frequent cooking classes at DLM's cooking school.

DLM has been among the more aggressive grocers in bringing in and stocking some of the new cuts.

Jack Gridley, DLM's meat and seafood manager, said customers "love them once they know what to do with them." The three-store grocer chain conducts frequent in-store cooking-and-sampling demonstrations for the new cuts, Gridley said.

Gridley said he has seen cuts such as hanger steak on the menus of local restaurants, including Rue Dumaine and l'Auberge, which will help pave the way for consumer acceptance.

"When people see it on a restaurant menu, they become more comfortable with it," he said.

Here are some cuts of meat — some new, some tried-and-true — that can offer plenty of value:

Flat-Iron steak (Top Blade Steak, Top Blade Chuck Steak): Fine for grilling, broiling or pan-searing, or can be cut into strips for stir-frying. Tender and well-marbled.

Hanger steak (Hanging Tenderloin, Butcher's Steak): Shaped like a long Tootsie-roll, or a small pork tenderloin. Can be broiled, grilled or pan-seared. Nicknamed the "butcher's fillet," it is relatively tender.

Tri-tip roast (Triangle steaks): A boneless, thick, triangular cut from the bottom sirloin, tri-tip has plenty of beefy flavor but is surprisingly tender. Can be roasted or grilled.

Boston Butt (Boston Blade Roast): This cut of pork doesn't come from the hindquarters, but from the upper part of the front-leg shoulder. It lends itself to long and slow cooking methods such as braising or on low, indirect heat on the grill to make pulled-pork barbecue.

Arm Picnic: The lower "arm" portion of the shoulder below the Boston Butt. One of the least expensive cuts of pork, it also requires long, slow cooking.

Contact this reporter at (937) 225-2258 or mfisher@DaytonDailyNews.com.

RECIPES

Flat Iron Steak with Red Wine Sauce

Adapted from recipe from Giada De Laurentiis/FoodNetwork.com

Make no mistake: These cuts of meat don't need any adornment, but if you're looking to jazz things up a bit, this sauce will do it. The recipe calls for unsalted butter, but salted butter may be substituted.

Ingredients

2 (1-pound) flat iron steaks or tri-tip steaks

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 cup tomato paste

3/4 teaspoon sugar

2 1/2 cups dry red wine

Instructions

Prepare the grill or barbecue (medium-high heat) or heat broiler. Sprinkle the steaks with salt and pepper and drizzle with the 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Grill or broil to desired doneness, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare (tri-tip steaks may require longer cooking time). Transfer the steaks to a cutting board. Tent with foil and let stand 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt. Add the garlic and oregano and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato paste and the sugar and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Whisk in the wine. Simmer until the sauce reduces by half, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat. Strain the sauce into a small bowl, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids in the strainer and return the sauce to the saucepan and bring back to a slow simmer. Cut the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter into small 1/2-inch chunks and whisk in the sauce a little at a time. Season the sauce, to taste, with salt and pepper.

Thinly slice the steaks across the grain. Divide the steak slices among 6 plates. Drizzle the sauce over the steak, drizzle a little more extra-virgin olive oil and serve.

Cider-Braised Pork Shoulder with Caramelized Onions

Adapted from a recipe from Gourmet Magazine December 2001

This recipe earned rave reviews from all members of the family. The onions and apple cider combine with the pork's juices to make a wonderful sauce.

Ingredients

1 (3- to 4-pound) bone-in fresh pork shoulder half (arm picnic or boston butt)

2 garlic cloves, cut into slivers

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 pound onions (5 or 6 medium), halved lengthwise, then cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices

3/4 cup unfiltered apple cider

Instructions

Preheat oven to 325°F. Score fat and any skin on pork in a crosshatch pattern. Make slits all over meat with a small sharp knife and insert a garlic sliver in each slit. Pat pork dry and season with salt and pepper.

Heat oil in a 4- to 5-quart ovenproof heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown meat on all sides, turning occasionally with the aid of tongs and a carving fork, about 8 minutes. Transfer pork to a plate.

Add onions to pot and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add 3/4 teaspoon salt and sauté, stirring occasionally, until onions are golden and caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes more.

Stir in cider and return pork to pot.

Cover pot with a tight-fitting lid and braise pork in middle of oven until very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

Transfer pork to a serving dish with the aid of tongs and carving fork. Boil cooking juices with onions until mixture is reduced to about 2 cups, 2 to 3 minutes, then season with salt and pepper and serve with pork.

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