Santa arrives at the Dayton mall
2009 Ohio State football
Trotwood-Madison vs. Winton Woods
Straight Talk
The case of the hard-to-start Buick
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Wheels: J.R. of Kettering by e-mail writes: "I have a 1996 Buick Roadmaster with 113,000 miles that just recently became hard to start after sitting overnight.
The spark plugs and ignition harness were R&R at 100,000 and I have used the fuel system additive Techron every spring and fall.
I have to turn over the starter for 10 to 15 seconds before the engine will start.
Once it is running, it runs well with no problem with acceleration such as hesitation or misfiring. Therefore, I don't think the problem is with the fuel pump or the fuel injectors. Please let me know your analysis of this concern."
Halderman: I think that the problem is likely caused by a weak fuel pump or injectors. A defective fuel pressure regulator can also cause this problem.
If the fuel pump is weak or has a leaking internal check valve, the fuel pressure will drop when the engine is shut off and then it takes a long time cranking the engine for the pump to build pressure enough to start.
Try this as a quick test: Turn the ignition to the on (run) position but do not start or crank the engine. Then turn the key off and repeat.
Then try starting the engine. If it starts a lot better, the fuel pressure is low and turning the key on energizes the fuel pump for two seconds to help build pressure.
This confirms that the cause of the hard starting is fuel pressure related. Now you could continue to do this until the engine does not start at all.
However the loss of fuel pressure could be leaking injector(s) or fuel pressure regulator as well as a weak fuel pump.
A professional service technician would perform a series of tests to determine the root cause.
I think this is the best way to go, as injectors can cost more $100 each and you have eight of them plus labor. That is a lot of money to spend on a guess.
The injectors could be leaking after the engine stops, or the fuel pressure regulator is bad and allowing the fuel pressure to bleed off or the fuel pump is weak.
This last item is the most likely but a fuel pressure and volume test plus a current draw test will help determine if this is the cause.
The fuel tank has to be removed to get access to the fuel pump, so this is not a do-it-yourself job.
James D. Halderman is an ASE-certified master technician, a member of the Society of Automotive Engineers and the author of 12 textbooks. Submit your automotive care questions to Halderman via e-mail at jhalderman2@juno.com, or write him in care of: Wheels, Marketing Publications Department, Dayton Daily News, 1611 S. Main St., Dayton OH 45409.
