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Home > Blogs > Uncorked > Archives > 2006 > September
September 2006
A wine (or two or three) for autumn
What happened to summer? Oh well, not to worry. Time to break out the soul-warming reds. We have a lip-smacking list of wine tastings and events to help ease the seasonal transition — check out tonight’s DLM Oakwood tasting list to jump-start your wine cravings (Krug ‘88 Champagne? Are you kidding me?).
This list comes to us, as usual, courtesy of a Dayton-based wine listserv, which compiles the information so that we can choose our favorites. And it’s all yours for free (the list, not the wine), if only you’ll click of the “continue reading” button below. Now THAT’s an offer you can’t refuse ….
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, September 29, 2006 4-8 pm 2000 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne Montrachet 2003 Domaine Coteau Pinot Noir 2000 Travignoli Riserva Chianti 2002 Leoville Poyferre 2004 Caymus Napa Cabernet
Saturday, September 30, 2006 1-6 pm 2000 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne Montrachet 2003 Hess Select Cabernet 2000 Manzone Barolo 2001 Chateau La Gaffeliere
Arrow Wine & Spirits – Kettering Saturday, September 30, 2006 11-4 pm Arrow will be tasting five great wines on Saturday!
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, September 30, 2006 2004 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc… 2003 Waterstone Pinot Noir… 2004 Martin & Weyrich Zinfandel… 2001 Midnight Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon… 2003 Waterstone Cabernet Sauvignon… 2001 Finca Flichman Barrancas
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)Saturday October 14th from 12 – 4 pm, wine tastings at all three stores are not going to be so regular. There will be TEN winemakers from the Grateful Palate portfolio pouring their wines. They will be split between the three stores. They are: 1) Colin Cooter of Leng’s & Cooter (McLaren Vale) 2) Justin McNamee of Samuel’s Gorge (Mclaren Vale) 3) Colin Kay of Kay Brothers (Mclaren Vale) 4) Mike de la Haye and/or Peter Taylor of Hare’s Chase (Barossa) 5) Peter Scholz of The Willows (Barossa) 6) Kim Johnston of Henry’s Drive and Shirvington (Padthaway & Mclaren Vale) 7) Sam Papasidero of Lillypilly (Riverina) 8) Peter Lynn of Majella (Coonawarra) 9) David Hickinbotham of Paringa (Riverlands) 10) R Winery – Bon Bon (South Australia)
DLM Oakwood Friday, September 29, 2006 5-8pm A Celebration….Jaci’s celebrating her husband’s return. Krug Champagne 1988 Christian Moreau Chablis 2004 Francois Raquillet Mercury 1er Cru Les Veleys 2004 Hendry Block 7 Zinfandel 2004 Sassetti Rosso DiMontalcino 2004 Yalumba The Signature 2001 Paolo Scavino Barolo 2001 No brown bag!
Saturday, September 30, 2006 1-6pm Featuring All four of Juan Palomar’s wines from the Veleta Winery Vijiriega White 2005 Cabernet 2004 Tempranillo 2004 Nolados 2004
Plus: Mason Sauvignon Blanc 2004 C. G. D’Arie Syrah 2003 Bonus Bottles!
Beers: Lagunitas Freak Out North Coast Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout
DLM Washington Square Thursday, September 28, 2006 5-8pm 2005 White Knight Viognier 2004 Domaine de Mont Redon L’Orangerie Vin de Pays des Maures2003 Walter Hansel North Slope Vineyard Pinot Noir 2003 Luiano Chianti Classico 2003 Simi Landslide Cabernet Sauvignon Mystery Wine!
Saturday, September 30, 2006 12-5pm 2005 Ondine Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Grayson Merlot 2002 Bremerton “Tamblyn� Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec/Merlot 2004 C.G. di Arie Petite Sirah 2003 Ferrari Carano Cabernet Sauvignon Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, September 29, 2006 3-7pm 04 Donnhoff Riesling 04 Donnhoff Spatlese 03 Todd Norman Syrah 05 Todd Norman Cabernet
Saturday, September 30, 2006 12-5pm 02 Kruger-Rumpf Rieling Kabernet 05 Leitz Dragonstone Riesling 03 Franciscan Merlot 02 Rockledge Cabernet
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Domaine Saint Vincent NV Brut Cinnabar Mercury Rising White Morgan Metallico Chardonnay Ventisquero Pinot Noir Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc Molly Dooker Two Left Feet Red Blend
Beer: Southampton Brewery (NY) Secret Ale Altbier
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday 10-2 PM All South African Wines 2005 Tall Horse Chardonnay 2004 Tall Horse Shiraz 2004 Tall Horse Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Lindeman’s Shiraz 2004 Lindeman’s Cabernet Sauvigon
October 7, 2006 Visit the Market for their 2nd Annual Gear Fest. Beer and Wine being served.
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, September 27, 2006 4:30 pm The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
L’Auberge Tuesday, October 3, 2006 7pm there will be a tasting! Livingston-Moffett, Napa: Chardonnay Genny’s Vineyard, 2004 Syrah Mitchell Vineyard, 2001 Gemstone, 2001 Cady St Aubin Varennes, France These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, September 29th, 7 pm, Australian All-StarsSaturday, September 30th, 3-6pm Little Sonoma Rising Stars
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Barefoot Pinot Grigio (2005): California; Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnary (2004): Washington State; Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot (2003): Washington State
Grapes of Ruth WINES AVAILABLE FOR TASTING FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 29 Willakenzie Estate Pinot Blanc Veranda Chardonnay Waterstone Pinot Noir Chateau Souverain Merlot Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon 7 Deadly Zins Ferrari Carano Siena Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico
La Petite France Friday, October 20, 2006 6:30 PM $60 per person “Journey Through France� tasting will be featuring a fine wine selection from Burgundy, the Loire and Rhone River valleys, and Bordeaux.
The dinner menu will feature scallop, endive, watercress, goat cheese & apple salad for the first course, asparagus, prosciutto & gruyere cheese crepe for the 2nd, roasted pork tenderloin with fig chutney and mashed carrots and parsnips for the 3rd, and pumpkin creme brulee for dessert. www.lapetitefrance.biz
The Inn at Versailles / Michael Anthony’s at The Inn
Friday, October 6, 2006 7:00 p.m $75.00 per person Reservations by calling 937-526-3020 or by email at innatversailles@earthlink.net
Elena Walch: Pinot Bianco Antipasti of: Stuffed Zucchini, Yellow Squash and Spinach, and Glazed Onion Frittata.
Elena Walch: Gewurztraminer Roasted Potato Bacon and Pancetta Bisque
Elena Walch: Chardonnay Mixed Field Greens with Crispy Prosciutto Ham and Fresh Melon and Balsamic Vinegar Syrup
Elena Walch: Lagrein Baked Eggplant with Spinach and Goat Cheese
Elena Walch: Merlot Strozzapretti Pasta with Mushroom, Italian and Lamb Sausage, Green Chilies, and Sun dried Tomatoes
Elena Walch: Lagrein RSV Braised Lamb Shanks with Fontina Cheese and Green Onion Polenta
Green Mountain House Blend Coffee Black Cherry Gelato Martinis
Champagne and chips: pairing wine with snacks for Game Day, and much, much more
A roundup of tantalizing tidbits to carry you through a weekend of fun, including the big Ohio State-Iowa football game on Saturday night. (Look for our wine-tastings list on Friday!)
So let’s start with wine pairings with Game Day snacks from Wine Enthusiast online. Sparkling wines with potato chips? Mmmm. Sauvignon blanc with chips and salsa? Chardonnay with buttered popcorn? Hey, I’ll try anything once.
From there, head for a bit more substance as the Los Angeles Times declares Mendocino to be the next big thing in California wines. And the New York Times waxes eloquent about Gewurtztraminer. Or check in on the California grape harvest, in all of its chaotic glory, courtesy of the Santa Rosa Press Democrat. (And here I thought to make wine you pressed grapes, not Democrats…)
But it’s not all about California. In many respects, you could substitute the word “Ohio” for “North Carolina” in the MSNBC story entitled North Carolina embraces the vine, again. Does anybody besides me see some parallels?
Finally, Time Magazine explores the trend toward alternative closures and wine “juice-box” packaging in an entry entitled Look, Ma, no cork!
Hope you enjoy the morsels that I’ve culled from the herd of wine news (with a tip of the cap to Benson Marketing). Thanks for reading, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Top tips on buying wine in restaurants
We’re not blessed (or is it cursed?) with a wealth of restaurant sommeliers here in the heartland of America in Dayton Uh-High-Uh, but these two stories about buying wine in restaurants have some intriguing advice and make for an entertaining read. Besides, one is written by our very own Tim Fish, who long ago, wrote for the Dayton Daily News, and who now writes for Wine Spectator.
His piece is entitled The buddy system: connecting with your sommelier. I love what Fish writes about “getting the temperature right” and “the ol’ vintage switcharoo.” Local restaurants, are you listening?
Then there’s the story from Forbes.com writer Nick Passmore entitled How to order wine for a business dinner that might remove the fear from this little task. Passmore says he got the tips by “talking to some of America’s top sommeliers — people who have seen every possible gaffe and more.”
What do you think of their recommendations?
French whiners invent excuses, hold yet another ‘do-over’
If you don’t like the result of a competition, just keep insisting upon doing it over and over again until you get the result you want.
That seems to be the French way of doing things. Why else concoct excuses and decide to re-do the do-over of the 1976 Judgment in Paris wine tasting?
The story details how one François Mauss, founder of something called the “Grand Jury Européen,” has declared he is “not satisfied” with the celebratory 30th anniversary tasting that took place last May, citing the dual locations and an unfair selection of vintage years — and of tasters — tainted the results. So they’ll do it all again (with different wines and different tasters) this Thursday (9-28-06).
Can you say: Weh … weh … weh … WAAHHHHHHH!
Do you suspect the fix is in jussssst a little bit?
Note to France: Yes, you lost the World Cup soccer final too. Why not check with Italy to see if they’ll agree to a “do-over?”
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
So, you think you know wine?
Wellllll, maybe not so much.
Check out this fine piece from the San Francisco Chronicle about the Master of Wine exam — if you think you can handle it. Then read the reaction from someone who tried eight times over 11 years to pass the damn test.
And while these folks are devoting years of their lives to their grueling quest, you also have news that the Pope has been named an honorary sommelier. Because, well, you know, he’s the pope.
I’m tellin’ ya, you just couldn’t make this stuff up if you tried.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Need another reason to drink red wine? Well, here it is …
(If you’re looking for this weekend’s tasting list, click here.)
Need another reason to drink red wine in moderation? You’ve got it. A brand new study suggests red wine — cabernet sauvignon was used in this particular instance — may reduce the risk of Alzheimer’s disease.
Yes, the study involved mice, and only mice, but the research team at New York’s Mount Sinai School of Medicine say their findings, to be published in a medical journal in November, represent a potential breakthrough and deserve further study. Their words, from a Mount Sinai news release:
“This new breakthrough is another step forward in Alzheimer’s research at Mount Sinai and across the globe for this growing health concern that has devastating effects,” say Giulio Maria Pasinetti, M.D., Ph.D., Professor of Psychiatry and Neuroscience, Director of the Neuroinflammation Research Center at Mount Sinai School of Medicine and lead author of the study and Dr. Jun Wang, Assistant Professor of Psychiatry and co-Author of the study. “These findings give researchers and millions of families a glimpse of light at the end of the long dark tunnel for future prevention of this disease.”
Here are three different takes on the story, first from WebMD, the second a news release from the Mt. Sinai school of medicine via sciencedaily.com , and the third from Decanter.com.
Perhaps that glass of cab — or some other similarly robust red wine — with dinner will taste just a bit sweeter tonight ….
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
No doggy-bag for me: First merlot-to-go experience a dud
Well, MY first attempt to bask in the glow of the new merlot-to-go legislation that took effect yesterday fizzled big-time.
I visited Brio Tuscan Grille at The Greene last night and ordered a bottle of wine at the bar while we were waiting to be seated. I inquired of the bartender whether I could take home the leftover wine, and she said she’d have to check with a manager. Later, she came back and apologized, and told us I could not bring home any leftover wine because it’s against corporate policy, and they’d have to stick with the policy until they hear differently “from above.”
Well, no one “from above” must have been reading the papers or paying much attention as they were preparing to open the restaurant, because this legislation was signed by Gov. Taft 90 days ago. Seems like adequate time to prepare.
I hope your experience with this new law is more positive than mine. Maybe next time.
I’ll have ample opportunity to chase away my sorrows this weekend, as you’ll see when you click on “Continue Reading” and gaze upon the pristine beauty that is the weekly wine-tastings list, which comes to us direct from a Dayton-based wine listserv. Looks like some new wine shops and restaurants are discovering the wine listserv and submitting their events for us to consider. Welcome!
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, September 22, 2006 4-8 pm 2005 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Rose 2005 Coolonia Las Liedres Bonarda 2005 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2003 Chateau Cantenac Brown 2000 Spottswoode Cabernet
Saturday, September 23, 2006 1-6 pm 2002 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Herrenweg Pinot Gris 2002 Louis Jadot Nuis St Geogs 2001 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo 2001 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Cannubi Barolo
The Thursday Night Wine Dinners are back! September 21, 2006 7PM $55 Jay’s is hosting a French wine dinner.
Arrow Wine & Spirits – Kettering Saturday, September 23, 2006 11-4 pm 2005 Il Roccolo, Grecanico, “R� 2004 Seebrich Riesling Niersteiner Spatlese 2003 Domaine du Dragon “Cuvee Saint-Michel� 2003 Domaine Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Grand Veneur 2004 J.K. Carriere Pinot Noir “Provocateur� 2002 ONYX Late Harvest Chenin
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Saturday October 14th from 12 – 4 pm, wine tastings at all three stores are not going to be so regular. There will be TEN winemakers from the Grateful Palate portfolio pouring their wines. They will be split between the three stores. They are: 1) Colin Cooter of Leng’s & Cooter (McLaren Vale) 2) Justin McNamee of Samuel’s Gorge (Mclaren Vale) 3) Colin Kay of Kay Brothers (Mclaren Vale) 4) Mike de la Haye and/or Peter Taylor of Hare’s Chase (Barossa) 5) Peter Scholz of The Willows (Barossa) 6) Kim Johnston of Henry’s Drive and Shirvington (Padthaway & Mclaren Vale) 7) Sam Papasidero of Lillypilly (Riverina) 8) Peter Lynn of Majella (Coonawarra) 9) David Hickinbotham of Paringa (Riverlands) 10) R Winery – Bon Bon (South Australia)
DLM Oakwood Friday, September 22, 2006 5-8pm Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Martin Ray Chardonnay 2004 Firestone Pinot Noir 2004 St. Francis Reserve Zinfandel Pagani Vineyard 2003 Robert Pecota Cabernet Kara’s Vineyard 2002 Brown Bag!
Saturday, September 23, 2006 1-6pm Leasingham Magnus Riesling Clare Valley 2004 Bernard Ambroise Bourgogne 2003 River Road Zinfandel Dempel Vineyard 2004 Ch. St. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot 2002 Rockledge Cabernet 2002 Seghesio Barbera D’Alba 2004 Bonus Bottles!
DLM Washington Square Thursday, September 14, 2006 5-8pm 2005 Ondine Sauvignon Blanc (South Africa) 2004 Plozner Tocai Friulano (Italy) 2003 Vision Cellars Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (California) 2005 Vina Antigua Sangiovese Bonarda (Argentina) 2004 Elyse Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel (California) Mystery Wine!
Saturday, September 23, 2006 12-5pm Fifi’s Football Favorites 2005 Budini Chardonnay 2004 Steele Pinot Noir 2003 Todd Norman Syrah 2004 Matchbook 2002 Carson Peak Cabernet Sauvignon Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, September 22, 2006 3-7pm 04 Ancien Chardonnay 04 Zind Humbrecht 04 Ancien Pinot Noir 04 Guelbenzu Hoppe
Saturday, September 23, 2006 12-5pm 04 Nickel & Nickel Chardonnay 02 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 00 Quintessa 99 Henschke “Hill of Grace”
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Chateau Suau Bordeaux Blanc 2005 Matilda Plains 2005 Sauvignon Blanc Kalin Cellars 1994 Chardonnay River Road Vineyards 2004 Zinfandel Menguante 2005 Old Vine Garnacha Leal Estate 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Beer: Spaten Oktoberfest
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday 10-2 PM Kinkead Ridge 2004 NEW Release (Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Syrah)
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, September 27, 2006 4:30 pm The Big House Red and White Pacific Rim Riesling Cigar Volant Heart of Darkness Syrah Le Pousseur The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, September 23, 2006 2004 Travis Chardonnay 2005 Sebastiani Pinot Noir 2001 Aries Merlot 2003 Renwood Old Vine Zinfandel 2003 Chateau Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes 2003 Simi Landslide Cabernet Sauvignon
Oktoberfest Celebration!! Friday, September 22, 2006 4-8 pm GERMAN FOOD GERMAN BEER GERMAN WINE LIVE MUSIC FUN, FOOD AND PRIZES
l’Auberge Tuesday, September 26, 2006 7pm there will be a tasting! These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, September 22nd, 7 pm ~ The Great Paris Tasting Anniversary Celebration Friday will be a blind, side by side, comparison tasting, pitting five French wines against five California wines.
Saturday, September 23rd, 3-6 pm ~ Wine & Cheese Pairing Di-Vine Matches ~ five wines, white & red, meet their life-long cheese mates.
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Tastings Sunday 4-7 and Tuesday 6-8 Lacheteau (2004) AOC Vouvray, France; Aranleon Tempranillo-Cab (2000) DO Utiel-Requena, Spain; La Vielle Ferme (2004) AOC Cotes de Ventoux, France
The Winds in Yellow Springs Friday, September 22 at 7:00 The Winds will be tasting of some of the most compelling white wines available accompanied by some late summer favorites from the Winds kitchen. 937-767-9441 for reservations.
The Emporium in Yellow Springs Friday, September 22, 2006 6:30 PM Il’Roccolo Red and White fron Sicilia Obvio Malbec from Argentina Chateau Bianca Oregon Reisling Andeluna Merlot from,Argentina Barnard Griffin Fume Blanc from Washington state Barnard Griffin Cabernet Clarette De Die a sparkler from the Rhone region
La Petite France Friday, October 20, 2006 6:30 PM $60 per person “Journey Through France� tasting will be featuring a fine wine selection from Burgundy, the Loire and Rhone River valleys, and Bordeaux.
The dinner menu will feature scallop, endive, watercress, goat cheese & apple salad for the first course, asparagus, prosciutto & gruyere cheese crepe for the 2nd, roasted pork tenderloin with fig chutney and mashed carrots and parsnips for the 3rd, and pumpkin creme brulee for dessert. www.lapetitefrance.biz
Wine doggie-bag law takes effect today
Well, Uncorked readers had plenty to say back in March about this topic when it was first proposed — the idea that diners should be able to take home their leftover wines from restaurants.
Then in June, we celebrated when the proposal was (gasp!) approved by state legislators.
Then in August we fermented the idea of heading out to eat on the day the law took effect, to first and foremost have fun, and secondly to test-drive, if you will, the new law and see how restaurants are responding to it. We even passed along information to restaurant owners about how they might comply with the new law.
Tonight (9-21-06) it all comes together. This is the first day the law takes effect, and it’s time to dress to the nines and pop the cork. I’m headed out tonight. Whether it’s tonight or Friday or Saturday, if you dine out and order a bottle of wine, let us know how the experience went — heck, you don’t have to limit your comments to the wine-to-go part of your evening, tell us how the whole experience was.
Have fun, enjoy and cheers!
Mark Fisher
The letter that Wine Spectator refused to publish?
When Nancy Bentley, co-owner of Kinkead Ridge winery in Ripley, Ohio, read a Wine Spectator piece about the cuisine of the west and midwest, she found it rather odd that the wines mentioned were ALL from the west, with nary mention of a single wine produced in the heartland. So she sat down and fired off a letter:
To the editors, Wine Spectator: I was very surprised that your World of Food issue appreciated food in the West and Midwest, but the wine section was relegated to Wines of the West only. Recently, a wine challenge similar to the famous Judgment of Paris, and judged by a master sommelier, among others, pitted Ohio wines against comparable European and California wines. Three of the Ohio wineries, including Kinkead Ridge, Ferrante and Busch-Harris bested their more expensive competitors, and six others were close in points. Tom Stevenson, British wine writer, has favorably recognized Midwest wineries in his 2006 Wine Report. As editor of the New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopeida, he says, “Virginia promises to be the East Coast’s Washington State, while Pennsylvania and Ohio are the dark horses.” West and East Coast myopia? Apparently a cure for myopia is the use of corrective lenses, or glasses. I suggest you bring your Reidels and taste what is happening with estate wineries in the Midwest!
Now, seems to me that this is a quite reasonable letter, well written, a nice turn of the phrase or two — in short, something readers might want to read in the Spectator’s letters column.
But alas, ‘twas not to be, apparently. Nancy received a reply from a Wine Spectator editorial assistant thanking her for writing, assuring her that her letter had been shared with the “editorial staff,” saying nothing about publication, and — here’s the best part — alerting her to the upcoming tastings articles, just in case she would like to submit her wines for review. The tastings schedule extends out to May of 2007 and mentions big feature stories in the works on South Africa, Austria, Germany, Chile, Greece, Champagne, Argentina, Burgundy, Rhone, Portugal, Alsace … you get the idea.
But nothing from middle America.
Following what had to be a slow burn and probably 11 drafts that were far more incendiary, Nancy wrote the following nice, calm, yet rather icy reply:
Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be a single category relevant to our geographic area, the midwest. This was precisely the point of my letter.
Hello. Wine Spectator? Is there anybody home?
Judging by this exchange, apparently not.
And Ohio wine producers will have to search for respect elsewhere, apparently.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Uncorking the perfect birthday celebration: Uncorked turns 1!
Uncorked was born a year ago today. Any such milestone represents a time to pause and reflect — right after I do this:
It’s my birthday … gonna party … it’s my birthday …. gonna party … Woo Hoo!
Ahem, okay, now then.
First of all, this is about you — yes, you, individually, you who is reading these words right now — because blogs such as this one depend upon readers as their lifeblood. This little venture has flourished because you keep coming back to see what’s happening on this page, to comment on the issue or the foible or the accomplishment or the irritant of the day. Many many times, your comments are far more worth reading than my original posts. My thanks to each of you.
Thanks also to Jeff Bruce, the editor of the Dayton Daily News, a fine blogger himself who persuaded me to launch Uncorked, and to Scott Elliott, my education reporting colleague (until I left the beat a month ago, anyway) whose incredibly successful education blog entitled Get On The Bus has taught me a great deal. And to the many other folks at the Dayton Daily News who make Uncorked work — because when it comes to the technical end of this, well, let’s just say my ignorance knows no bounds.
It’s been an eventful first year. Early on, I discovered the power and the international reach this Internet blogging medium can have (and I suspect a certain national grocery chain did too) with the December 2005 entries entitled A Trader Joe’s wine-buying experience and Trader Joe’s pulls Italian white wine from shelves nationwide. An amazing experience that evolved from the innocent act of buying a bottle of wine.
We’ve had fun with photo caption contests once or twice. We’ve tweaked the powerful, including Wine Spectator a time or two. Even the Spectator’s publisher, Marvin Shanken, weighed in when we raised questions about the magazine’s restaurant awards.
We’ve shared emotional memories of a wine retailer poised to retire and allowed another retailer to unleash a rant.
We’ve caught up with old friends. We’ve stooped to new lows of shameless titillation by inventing ways to get such terms as “sex and seduction” and “Marilyn Monroe naked” and “porn star” into headlines — all in proper context, of course.
And we’ve even helped shame folks — from one individual to one high-profile winery — into doing the right thing.
It’s been a fun ride so far, thanks to you. Care to join me for another year?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Big-Ass settlement tops the week’s wine news
If you’re near a radio at noon today (Saturday 9-16), tune in to WHIO-AM radio, when Jack Gridley from Dorothy Lane Market will chat with former Dayton Daily News food and dining reporter Ann Heller and with the newspaper’s current food and dining reporter — me.
But we move on to “bigger” topics to wrap up a newsy week in the wine world:
— It was a big-ass dispute over the Big-Ass name, but now it appears both sides have settled in the case of the two California wineries making wines under “Big-Ass” labels. And yes, I’ll just stop there.
— Hosers no more: Wine sales have surpassed spirits for the first time ever in Canada, according to the Toronto Globe and Mail.
— This refresher course on wine tasting-room etiquette from thte Santa Rosa Press Democrat is entertaining enough because it SO applies to Dayton-area wine tastings, but on top of that, it’s written by Peg Melnik, former Springfield News-Sun reporter. Don’t skip this one.
— The French government is carving out some new appellations, including in one of my favorite wine-producing regions, the Loire.
— And check out the post by the Associated Press biotechnology writer entitled Better wine through chemistry.
Enjoy the tastings, stay tuned for a special posting in the next 48 hours, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Mmm-mmm good, Mmmm-mmmm good …
…..Our local wine tastings are mmm-mmm good. Oh, you say it’s been done? The Campbell soup lawyers are on line one? Um, sorry.
Here’s what’s goiing on wine-wise in the Miami Valley, courtesy of a local wine listserv. See you out on the circuit, start making plans to go out for dinner Thursday night when the wine-doggiebag bill first takes effect, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
(Click on “Continue reading” to peruse the list of tastings and other events)
The Taste of the Miami Valley will be held at Riverscape Metropark in downtown Dayton Sept 15th and 16th. The evening of Friday the 15th is a special happening. A “Take A Sip for Scholarship” wine tasting will be held from 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm. Proceeds go toward scholarships for students studying the culinary arts. Tables for 10 are for sale for $250. That’s only $25 per person. Participants get unlimited wine tasting from 5-8 and each table gets $75 in food tickets. Get a table and find 9 friends to split it with you. Tables must be paid for in advance with either check or credit card. Call Amy Zahora at the Miami Valley Restaurant Association to buy your table (937) 461-6872. www.themvra.org
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, September 15, 2006 4-8 pm 1996 Deleger Chassagne-Montrachet 2003 Cristom Pinot Noir 2004 Elyse Morisoli Zinfandel 2001 Collosorbo Brunello 2001 Gruard Larose
Saturday, September 16, 2006 1-6 pm NV Gruet Rose 2001 E Guigal Chateauneuf Pape 2002 Cakebread Merlot 2003 Chateau La Croix St. Georges
The Thursday Night Wine Dinners are back! September 21, 2006 7PM $55 Jay’s is hosting a French wine dinner.
Arrow Wine & Spirits – Kettering Saturday, September 16, 2006 11-4 pm Slipstream 2005 Shiraz Grenache Apex 2002 Cabernet Pararroz 2005 Melville 2005 Viognier Juan Gil 2004 Crocker Starr 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, September 16, 2006 2005 Ceja Vino de Casa White 2005 Ceja Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Landskroon Pinotage 2004 Bramosia Chianti Classico 2002 Twenty Rows Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Landskroon Morio Muscat
Oktoberfest Celebration!! Friday, September 22, 2006 4-8 pm GERMAN FOOD GERMAN BEER GERMAN WINE LIVE MUSIC FUN, FOOD AND PRIZES
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood
Friday, September 15, 2006 5-8pm Pinecrest Chenin Blanc 2003 EOS Estate Cupa Grandes Chardonnay 2001 San Pietro Pinot Noir 2005 Simi Landslide Cabernet 2003 Moreson Magia Bordeaux style blend 2000 Brown Bag!
Saturday, September 16, 2006 1-6pm San Pietro Pinot Grigio 2005 Cullen Chardonnay 2002 Joel Gott Zinfandel 2005 Chateau St. Michelle Cold Creek Cabernet 2001 Cullen Margan (Malbec Petit Verdot Blend) 2004 Cullen Diana Madeline (Bordeaux style blend) 2002 Bonus Bottles!
Beers: Carnegie Porter Avery Maharaja Imperial IPA
DLM Washington Square Thursday, September 14, 2006 5-8pm 2004 Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexendre Chardonnay 2003 Domaine Michel Gay et Fils Chorey les Beaune 2003 Mas Fondreche Cotes du Ventoux 2002 Casa Silv Los Lingues Carmenere 2003 C.G. di Arie Syrah Mystery Wine!
Saturday, September 16, 2006 12-5pm Fifi’s Out of the Cellar Tasting! 1997 Bollinger Le Grand Annee 2000 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion 2001 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Mystery Wine!
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, September 15, 2006 3-7pm 00 Forman Chardonnay 04 Honig Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc 04 Buehler Zinfandel 03 Simi Landslide Cabernet
Saturday, September 16, 2006 12-5pm 99 Parador Red Wine 01 Merryvale Beckstoffer Cabernet 01 Remirez de Ganuza 99 Clerico Percristina Barolo
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net CUVEE WILL BE CLOSING SATURDAY AT 7:00PM SHARP Anime Prosecco Alamos Viognier Toad Hollow Sauvignon Blanc Vina Antigua 2003 Sangiovese/Bonarda Dievole Pinocchio Nero d’Avola 2 Up Shiraz
Beer: Spaten Oktoberfest Food: Rabbit Pate
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday 10-2 PM Alkoomi Southlands Unwooded Chardonnay Alkoomi Southlands Red Alkoomi Southlands Shiraz Leonard Kreush 2005 Piesporter Spatlese
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, September 20, 2006 4:30 pm 2004 Barnard Griffin Fume Blanc 2003 Barnard Griffin Chardonnay 2003 Soos Creek Merlot 2003 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Barnard Griffin Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Glen Fion “Bacchus Vineyard” Syrah The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, September 15th beginning at 7 pm - Six Wines from South of the Equator.
Saturday, September 16, 3-6 pm - Uncommonly Good, Uncommon Varietals: Chenin Blanc (brand new from Greg Graziano!), Chateau St. Michelle Gewürztraminer, Boeger Barbera and Le Mire Sangiovese.
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Please note the different hours this week: SATURDAY 2 to 5, and Tuesday 6 to 8 Estancia Chardonnay (2004): AVA Monterey, California Red Diamond Merlot (2003): Washington Condesa de Sarabella (2004): DO Calatayud, Spain
Anthony’s Cigar Bar & Grille 7647 Voice of America Center Drive, West Chester, Ohio 45069 R.S.V.P. @ (513)779-3455 www.anthonysofwestchester.com Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9/20/06 1. Terlano - Blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, Riesling 2. Ceja Vino de Casa - Blend of Chardonnay & Marsanne 3. Ceja Vino de Casa - Blend of Syrah & Pinot Noir 4. Kit Fox - Blend of Cabernet & Syrah 5. Cape Vintage Port $20.00 per person includes assortment of fruit & variety of Cheeses and crackers.
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Can words sell wine, or is it all about the Parker score?
A couple of weeks ago, I praised a piece written by Dorothy Lane Market’s Todd Templin about his wine travels in Germany, and suggested that wine retailers ought to do more of this.
Well, that earned a sharp rebuke from an obviously frustrated Ann Boucher, who recently jumped from the wholesale end of the wine business to the retail end with Serendipity — A Wine Shop for the 21st Century in Columbus. Here was Ann’s written spanking:
Forgive me for feeling a bit cynical, Mark, but what’s the point? Thanks to your God-given talent, I’m sure that writing comes easy for you, but for many of us lowly wine merchants, its hard work. If we sold lots of wine, as a direct result of our efforts, it would be worth the time and energy, but, in my short time as a retailer, I’m not seeing it. As you know, I put lots of time and effort in to producing a catalog. My customers, thus far, have been men who don’t really read my catalog. Believe it or not, instead of reading it, they bizarrely cross reference Parker scores with the wines appearing in my catalog. If they find a favorable rating for the same vintage, they buy a few bottles. Wouldn’t it be infinitely easier, less depressing and more profitable for me to just send out a list of wines with Parker scores and say, “Get ‘em here!�
Retailers, distributors: Is our friend Ann right — is it this bad? Have we wine consumers really devolved to this point?
Ann did, indeed, put incredible time and effort into her catalog, and her descriptions of wines (and of those who produced those wines) make me want to buy them, pure and simple. Just as catalogs such as The Village Corner in Ann Arbor and The Winds Wine Cellar do. Sure, Parker’s dreaded 100-point ratings scale has affected whether I buy or don’t buy a wine on occasion. But to me, other people’s opinions DO matter, and how they express those opinions can have an impact — sometimes greater than a Parker score’s impact — on my wine-buying decisions.
Am I alone in this?
Is it all about Parker, the whole Parker, and nothing but the Parker, so help us God?
Let us know what you think by clicking on the “Post Your Comment” link.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Seeking advice on Napa trip
Some of you know Buck, who owns a business in downtown Dayton and drops in on Friday night and Saturday wine tastings on occasion. Well, Buck e-maiied me a question:
We are heading to California and and will be in Napa 9-18 and 9-19. Can you suggest any boutique wineries to visit?
Frankly, I can’t. My last two visits to California focused on areas outside of Napa. So, I decided to turn to the readers of Uncorked.
Any suggestions for Buck? (And Buck, please let me know afterwards how your trip went, and I’ll post that as well….)
Thanks and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Ohio 2006 harvest report: wine producers riding out a roller-coaster year
Vintage 2006 has been quite a roller-coaster ride for most Ohio wine producers. A damaging springtime frost, torrid early-summer temperatures, cool late-summer temperatures, and periods of heavy rains left even veteran winemaker Arnie Esterer of Markko Vineyards in Conneaut in northeast Ohio shaking his head and referring to 2006 as the “bumpy road vintage.”
“First frost then dry before wet then hot and now cool leaves winegrowers thankful for any harvest at all,” Esterer said. “This summer has stamped its personality into the coming wine.”
Ohio wines have gained considerable traction this year, and with more than 100 producing wineries in all corners of the state and plenty of variation in climate, it’s clear not every winery will be affected the same way. But many say they faced challenges in the 2006 vintage.
The vintage was looking good early thanks to a mild winter, but the tender grape buds got slammed with plummeting temperatures in late Aprl and early May in many parts of the state. “Then the rains and more rains and cooler weather have made it a challenging seaon,” said John Maness, winemaker for Laurello Vineyards in Geneva in northeast Ohio. “We still need a couple weeks of warm weather and sun to ripen the reds.”
Still, Maness said the vines set a decent crop, and picking of pinot grigio and pinot noir is scheduled to begin the last week of September.
Keith Pritchard of Slate Run Vineyard in Canal Winchester, south of Columbus in Central Ohio, said his vineyards were unaffected by the spring freeze that struck vineyards to the north. But the cool, wet growing season has slowed ripening and caused some rot problems. “Time to put a bounty on the weather forecasters,” Pritchard said. A warm, dry autumn will help late-picked varieties, he said.
Not all of the pitfalls of a wine-grape grower are weather-related. Carl Jahnes, co-owner of Flint Ridge Vineyard & Winery in Hopewell, Ohio, east of Columbus, said his vineyards escaped the spring frost, “but we lose lots of fruit to deer, coons, and disease, if we’re blessed, as we were this year, with stinky hot humid nights about 70 degrees, and blistering days at or near 95-plus degrees.”
“Such is the life of the dirt sod bustin’ farmer. A slave to weather and circumstance, hoping for drought in August to spice up the grape a bit before picking,” Jahnes said.
Through it all, Jahnes anticipates harvesting at least some of the following grape varieties: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vidal, Traminette, Chambourcin, Ventura, Foch, Cayuga, Niagara, Delaware, Steuben and Bianca.
David Kraus of Hermes Estate Vineyards/Sand Hill Vineyard near Sandusky in north-central Ohio, paints a far brighter picture from his climate on Sandusky Bay, where Kraus has planted grape varieties such as syrah, grenache, sangiovese, barbera and other varieteals found in southern France and northern Italy. His ancestors came to the region 150 years ago and planted grapes in the limestone soils.
“July and August were excellent ripening months — temperatures with highs mostly in the 80s with an occasional shower to refresh the vines. Though it’s been cool for the past week, sugar levels are higher than at this point in the last couple of years because of the overall warmth of the season,” Kraus said.
“Again, it looks like a season to disprove the critics who claim one can’t grow such difficult varieties to ripen in most of the world, especially Ohio.”
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Ardie Bonanno in the spotlight
Many of you know local wine icon Ardie Bonanno because of his decades of work as a wine distributor and importer — and because of his high-voltage personality. Well, check out page A4 of this morning’s Dayton Daily News (9-10-06) (or click here and go to photo number 5) to get a good look at Artie passing along his bocce widsom to his 5-year-old son at the Italian Fall Festa. It’s a great shot by DDN photographer Jim Witmer, whose images you’ve seen elsewhere on Uncorked …
Nice form, Ardie, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
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‘The world does not need another Chardonnay’
Who uttered those words?
That would be Rudy von Strasser, the Napa Valley wine producer who has harvested what he says is the first ever commercial crop of Gruner Veltliner in California, according to Decanter.com. The grape is planted widely in Austria and makes some of that country’s most highly respected wines.
Von Strasser says he doesn’t know how California-grown Gruner will taste, but added the varietal character is most important, because ….
“The world does not need another chardonnay.”
If we compile a Top Ten Wine Quotes of 2006, this, I herby predict, will make the cut. Beautiful.
See you out at the Saturday tastings … Cheers, and Go Bucks!
Mark Fisher
A September to remember
Make this weekend part of your September to remember by heading out to sample some of these fine wines that the fine folks from around the Miami Valley have hand-picked just for you. Note that a local winery is offering its wines at Arrow Centerville on Saturday …
This listing comes to Uncorked courtesy of a Dayton-based wine listserv which collects, compiles and types up the information for its subscribers — no small task. And Uncorked is thankful for it.
Click on “continue reading” to check out the harvest bounty, and cheers!
Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, September 8, 2006 4-8 pm 2004 Drouhin Montmains Chablis 2004 Wild Horse Pinot Noir 2004 Uccelliera Rosso Montalcino 2003 Chateau Paviel de Luze 2001 Uccelliera Brunello
Saturday, September 9, 2006 1-6 pm Fess Parker Wines and the LobsterFest!
Call 222-2892 for Jay’s LobsterFest is September 9th with Fess Parker wines. Menu: Tropical Lobster-Avocado Salad with Champagne-Citrus Vinaigrette, House made Lobster Raviolis in a Lobster Consommé with Fresh Poached Seafood and Vegetables, Broiled Lobster with Asparagus Risotto and Saffron Beurre Blanc and Basil-Tomato Oil, Caramel Custard with Carrot Cake Soufflé with Fresh Berries
Arrow – Kettering Saturday, September 9, 2006 11-4 pm 2006 Slipstream Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Columbia Crest Chardonnay “Grand Estates� 2004 Tres Picos NV Domaine Ste. Michelle “Frizzante� 2002 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir “Mark Bradford Vineyard
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, September 9, 2006 1pm-5pm – Notice the time change! Meet Carol Williams, owner of The Winery at Versailles and taste: The Winery at Versailles Rodeo Red… The Winery at Versailles Hunter Red… The Winery at Versailles Buckeye Blush… The Winery at Versailles Viognier… The Winery at Versailles Stampede Sparkling Wine…
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood
Friday, September 8, 2006 5-8pm Whitehall Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Rochioli Chardonnay 2002 Felsina Chianti Classico 2003 Whitehall Lane Merlot 2003 C.G. de Arie Southern Exp. Zinfandel 2004 Brown Bag!
Come and help George Celebrate his 60th Birthday Saturday, September 9, 2006 1-6pm Paillard Rose Brut Champagne NV Boyer-Martenot Puligny-Montrachet 2003 Jean Garaudet Beaune 1er Cru 2003 Northstar Merlot 2001 Floral Springs Triology 2001 Le Macioche Brunello 2001 Bonus Bottles!
Beers: North Coast Brother Thelonious Belgian Style Abbey Ale Ayinger Oktoberfest
DLM Washington Square Thursday, September 7, 2006 5-8pm ’04 Concannon Stampmaker’s White Wine Viognier ’05 El Chaparral Garnacha ’04 Toscolo Chianti ’03 Spellbound Petite Sirah ’04 Uccelleria Rosso di Montalcino Mystery Wine!
Saturday, September 9, 2006 12-5pm ’01 I Prandi Soave ’04 Steele Pinot Noir Easton House ’01 Chivite Gran Feudo Reserva ’05 Mollydooker “The Boxer� Shiraz ’00 Terlo Ravero Barolo Mystery Wine! Beers:
Dorothy Lane Springboro
Friday, September 8, 2006 3-7pm 04 Las Brisas 04 Volker Eisele 01 Lava Cap Zinfandel 01 Finca Sandoval
Saturday, September 9, 2006 12-5pm 04 Verget Saint-Bris 02 Whitford Old Vine Chardonnay 01 Marietta Angeli Cuvee 03 Dare Cabernet Franc
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Domaine Skouras 2004 White (60% Roditis, 40% Moscofilero) Ocone 2004 Greco Rutherglen 2004 “The Alliance” Marsanne/Viognier Vina Obvio 2004 Malbec La Doga 2003 Morellino di Scansano Gerard Raphet 2004 Bourgogne
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday 10-2 PM
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, August 23, 2006 4:30 pm Scotese’s will be tasting wines from Bogle! The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com September 8 at 7 pm ~ The Big Six The Big Six is what 80% of the world drinks: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Robert Mondavi 2004 Fumé Blanc Jocelyn 2004 Chardonnay Peter Nicolay Kabinett 2003 Riesling Bouchaine 2003 Pinot Noir Markham 2003 Merlot Souverain 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Saturday, September 9 from 3-6 pm ~ Oregon’s Willamette Valley
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Villa Cerrina Pinot Grigio-Chardonnay (2004): IGT Delle Venezie, Italy Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay (2003): AVA Columbia Valley, Washington Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot (2002): AVA Columbia Valley, Washington
L’Auberge Tuesday, September 5, 2006 7pm Rosenblum Paso Robles Zinfandel, 2004 Rosenblum Carla’s Zinfandel, 2003 Rosenblum Abba Syrah, 2002 Rosenblum Hillside Syrah, 2003
These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
The Taste of the Miami Valley will be held at Riverscape Metropark in downtown Dayton Sept 15th and 16th. The evening of Friday the 15th is a special happening. A “Take A Sip for Scholarship” wine tasting will be held from 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm. Proceeds go toward scholarships for students studying the culinary arts. Tables for 10 are for sale for $250. That’s only $25 per person. Participants get unlimited wine tasting from 5-8 and each table gets $75 in food tickets. Get a table and find 9 friends to split it with you. Tables must be paid for in advance with either check or credit card. Call Amy Zahora at the Miami Valley Restaurant Association to buy your table (937) 461-6872. www.themvra.org
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Rate THIS: Turning the tables on Wine Spectator and other wine magazines
When he writes about wine magazines and their buying guides, W.R. Tish brings a rather unique perspective: He is the former editor of Wine Enthusiast magazine. In other words, he’s been there, and he knows the inner workings.
So when Tish turns the tables and comes up with his own ratings of wine magazines (using the 100-point scale, naturally) in Wines and Vines, well … it’s just too much fun to ignore.
Tish weighs in on Wine Spectator (88), Wine Enthusiast (79) and Wine & Spirits (91). He includes circulatioin figures, advertising costs, and other juicy tidbits.
This piece by Tish follows up on a story he wrote in July for Wines & Vines that delved into the nuts and bolts of the ratings guides of those three publications.
A fun read indeed.
Do you agree with Tish’s ratings?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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The wine-grape harvest begins
It’s that time of year that we wine geeks start to worry about the grape harvest and what it all means for the quality of Vintage 2006. I’ve asked some Ohio wine folks to share with me what’s going on in their vineyards, and I’ll post an entry on that topic in a few days, but in case you were wondering, here’s a little snapshot of what’s happening in California and a half a world away, in the land of Beaujolais, from which we’ll have a chance to taste the first vintage 2006 wines the third Thursday in November or thereabouts, and in Bordeaux: (Please click on “continue reading”)
This comes from a press release I received yesterday from the company that handles the media relations for Georges Duboeuf in the U.S. (For a peek at the California vintage courtesy of the San Francisco Chronicle, click here. Or for a glimpse into the ‘06 Bordeaux harvest courtesy of Decanter.com, click here.
“BEAUJOLAIS BEGINS HARVEST SEPTEMBER 5, 2006
September 4, 2006, Romaneche-Thorins, France: Georges Duboeuf and his team have spent the last three weeks monitoring the progress of the maturing process throughout the region. The harvest in Beaujolais will officially begin on September 5, 2006—the same time as last year. A few of the earliest plots that had already reached perfect maturation received special authorization to start their picking a few days early. Other parts of the region expect to begin harvest September 12. Harvest throughout the Beaujolais region is expected to be complete by the end of September.
Although the start of the harvest is the same as 2005, the weather has been quite different. Georges Duboeuf reports that the vineyards got plenty of sun and warmth in July, although the weather in August was not ideal. While there was some lovely, warm weather, some parts of the region had a bit too much rain. “Thanks to July, the grapes have stored a great deal of warmth and this has resulted in a beautiful color, which is now expressing itself in dark red shades and purplish reflections.�
From an analytical point of view, all the critical quality parameters look very promising: These include sugar content, acidity, pH, phenolics and a good anthocyanin and tannin content. The health of the grapes is also excellent. “The first grapes tasted yesterday were very sweet with a thick skin, a sign of a good evolution and quality if the current weather continues,� said Duboeuf. “By tasting the grapes, we can get a very good idea of how tasty the fruit is and this bodes well for the taste potential. They are crunchy, pleasant, fresh and delicate, sweet with no tartness and not very acidic, so they give a wonderful sensation, that of juicy fruit.�
Quantity will vary throughout the Beaujolais region. Yields will be very different depending on the winegrowing practices used and how the vines have been tended. Every day 10 viticulturists from Les Vins Georges Duboeuf travel around the vineyards to check on the maturity of the plots they are monitoring—a total of 650 hectares. These inspections help to evaluate the Brix as well as the yield potential. If plots are too heavily loaded, the Duboeuf team insists that the grower carry out highly selective sorting on the vine on the day of picking. Because all grapes in the Beaujolais region are hand harvested this type of exacting selection is possible.
The harvest is expected to continue to the end of September as different plots and appellations reach maturity at different times. At the moment, Duboeuf reports, “We have a very fine harvest potential. All we need now is a dry, sunny September for an excellent quality 2006 vintage and in terms of Beaujolais Nouveau; it may even be more fresh, delicate and fruity than in 2005.
Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2006 arrives at restaurants and on store shelves on Thursday November 16, 2006. For more information, visit www.winewithoutrules.com where news, information and images for the 2006 vintage for Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau will be posted.
Let the party begin!”
Hmmm. Why does it worry me that even in a news release such as this one, which generally accentuates the positives, the phrase “the weather in August was not ideal” appears?
Oh well, not to worry. We’ll have a chance to make up our own minds soon enough, right?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Wine collector claims Thomas Jefferson bottles are fake
It sounded too good to be true — wines found in a Paris basement that belonged to Thomas Jefferson — and now, at least one collector who purchased a few bottles of the wine cache (for a cool half-million dollars) says it WAS too good to be true.
And the collector — Palm Beach millionaire Bill Koch — is none too happy about it. In fact, he has sued.
“(The) investigation has proven that (the) most celebrated wine ‘discovery’ — 18th century wine purportedly bottled for Thomas Jefferson, complete with ‘Th.J.’ initials engraved on the bottles — is a hoax,” his lawyers wrote in a lawsuit filed Thursday in U.S. District Court in New York, according to the Palm Beach Post story linked to above.
Don’t you just hate when you blow hundreds of thousands of your hard-earned dollars on fake goods?
There’s a movie to be made here, don’t you think?
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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Sauternes at 10 a.m.? Now THAT’S a Labor Day party
*Update to this Post ** To view the list of Sauternes served this morning click on the “Continue reading” link below…..
Assuming I make it to the finish line this morning of the Holiday at Home 5k race here in Kettering, Ohio (the 8 a.m. race takes us down our residential street and past my house, so I have no excuse not to run it), I’ll shower and head over to a Sauternes party scheduled to begin at 10 a.m. at the home of a generous friend whose house faces the Holiday at Home parade route.
Top THAT.
What are you doing for this coveted third day of a three-day weekend? Planning to pull the cork on anything good?
Last year we put a dent in the host’s supply of ‘88 and ‘89 Sauternes. Not sure what this year has in store, but how can we go wrong? Watching a parade go by, with a glass of France’s finest dessert wine in hand … Such labor … .
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
Well, indeed I DID make it to the finish line, albeit slowly. And here’s what I found waiting for me at the end of a grueling morning:
1979 Ch. Suduiraut
1981 Ch. La Tour Blanche
1983 Ch. Suduiraut
1986 Ch. Suduiraut
1986 Ch. Climens
1989 Kalin Cuvee d’Or
1998 Ch. Climens
1998 Ch. Riussec
1998 Ch. d’Yquem
Oh, and a Taittinger Brut as a palate-cleanser …
Cheers!
Mark
Just like being in the vineyards of Germany, only, well, not
Don’t forget Arrow Far Hills is having its Super Saturday today. Post your thoughts!
But for now, we move on …
One thing I think local wine retailers should do more of is writing about their wines. The Winds and Dorothy Lane Market do some of this in monthly newsletters, Cuvee includes some descriptions on their weekly tasting menu, but sometimes, I thirst for more.
DLM’s Todd Templin halped slake my thirst yesterday with an and extensive piece on his travels to the vineyards of Germany with German wine god (and importer) Terry Theise. Read this and try, just try, to not lust after some of Germany’s finest rieslings from the excellent 2005 vintage.
It’s as if we were there …
Cheers, and let me know if you found a favorite at the Arrow tasting, or any other you encounter this holiday weekend!
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
News Flash: Schildknecht to write for Parker’s Wine Advocate full time, leave Vintner Select
Many of you know or have met David Schildknecht, wine buyer/importer/expert extraordinaire for the Mason, Ohio-based wine distributor Vintner Select. Well, David announced this morning he will leave Vintner Select to write for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate full-time. This is an awesome move for David, whom I’ve tasted wine with on many, many occasions, and who has an otherworldly passion, palate and knowledge of wine. Click on “continue reading” for David’s description of his new gig. And congratulations, David!
From David Schildknecht:
“In connection with recent changes at The Wine Advocate, I have been given a rare opportunity to derive my livelihood entirely from words about wine. During my 29 years as a restaurateur and then a wine merchant, I have always written about wine - with increasing devotion and intensity in recent years - and have long contemplated the possibility that this might some day become my sole career.
It is with regret that I contemplate the termination of my long and fruitful relationship with Vintner Select, but the (elder) Schildknechts have no plans to move their domicile, so I am pleased to know that my many friends in Kentucky and Ohio will still be neighbors.
It is with tremendous gratitude that I recall Doris Holzheimer’s and Gordon Hullar’s decision to offer me the opportunity of a lifetime, working with Vintner Select, an opportunity without which most of the personal and professional experience I have gained and improvements I would like to believe that I have made over the past decade would be unthinkable. A heartfelt “Thankyou!” to all of those at Vintner Select and to our customers for your support and for the stimulation, challenge and pleasure of your company over the years.
Now I have been granted another opportunity of a lifetime. My work with the Wine Advocate has been expanded to include coverage of France (outside of Bordeaux, the Rhone, and Provence, for which Bob Parker will be responsible), occasional coverage of New Zealand and South Africa (what’s a new job without some new places to visit?), and other special projects whose fruits I hope and expect that you will taste in print in coming years.
A complete announcement of this and other changes at the Wine Advocate - where, in the words of the announcement, “the best is yet to come” – has been posted on erobertparker.com.
I shall officially begin full time at The Wine Advocate January 1, but be consulting intensively forVintner Select for the first 90 days of 2007 until my French coverage begins appearing and rendering that impossible. So there will be ample transition, and you won’t get rid of me from one day to the next!”
Here’s what Robert Parker himself wrote about David this morning on Mark Squires Bulletin Board at erobertparker.com:
Most readers are familiar with David Schildknecht since he has been writing for The Wine Advocate on a part-time basis since 2005. As of January 1, 2007, David will expand his activities with The Wine Advocate full-time. David, whom I’ve known for over two decades, since his early days as a wine consultant in Washington, DC, may work even harder than I do. He is a prolific as well as highly respected wine writer. In addition to his continued championing of the wines of Germany and Austria as well as Central Europe and America’s Eastern and Midwestern wineries, David will be giving his laser-like attention and endless energy to the wines of Alsace, Burgundy, the Loire Valley, and the Languedoc-Roussillon. He will also be responsible for Champagne, an area that The Wine Advocate has been remiss in not covering as thoroughly as it should be. It makes sense, given his strengths, that he also cover New Zealand and South Africa. At present, David is still working as a distributor-importer, but he will terminate that position early next year, at the time that his reports on French wine begin appearing in The Wine Advocate. David followed a brief stint in academia with several years in the restaurant business. He then spent more than a decade as a wine retailer in Washington, DC, first with Rex Wine & Spirits, then Mayflower Wine and Spirits, and lastly Pearson’s. While he has worked in the trade, his true calling has always been wine writing, and finally, his exceptional talents will be where they belong.
Great stuff: Congratulations, David!
Mark Fisher
Wine: an essential element of a pleasurable 3-day weekend
Sure, it’s Labor Day. But that doesn’t mean that tasting wines amounts to work.
Except for me. All part of my job, ma’am.
Thanks for the fine suggestions to yesterday’s post on what wines pair with dropping off a first-born at college. We endured the customary gridlock of move-in day in and around Athens, so I barelyl had a chance to act upon your suggestions after arriving home late Thursday night, but hope to make up for that shortcoming this weekend. And it looks like I’ll have ample opportunity.
Leading the Saturday tastings this weekend is the “Super Saturday” at Arrow Wine’s Far Hills Avenue store. A partial list of wines to be tasted at that event — in which a half-dozen or so wine distributors come in and pour a samplinlg of their wines — is posted below, along with a veritable plenthora of other tastings and events, including an early lheads-up for the Miami Valley Restaurant Association’s Taste of the Miami Valley event at Riverscape Sept. 15-16.
And when you’re done tasting and awaken from your afternoon nap, have some fun with my blogging colleague Tyler Colman’s “Dr. Vino’s Labor Day Wine Quiz. Dr. Vino is actually giving away wine to HIS contest winners, whereas all I ever give away is our undying love and affection.
As always, the following wine-tastings list comes to us courtesy of a local wine listserv, for which we are QUITE grateful.
Thanks and cheers! (Click on “continue reading” to access the list.)
Mark Fisher
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, September 1, 2006 4-8 pm Sparkling Rose 2001 Torre galasso Montepulciano 2001 Page Wine Cellars Red Blend 2003 Chateau Gloria 2003 Chateau Smith-Haut Lafite
Saturday, September 2, 2006 1-6 pm 2003 Domaine Arlaud Gevrey-Chambertin 2003 Domaine Arlaud Morey St Denis 2001 Domaine Arlaud Morey St Denis
Call 222-2892 for Jay’s LobsterFest is September 9th with Fess Parker wines. Menu: Tropical Lobster-Avocado Salad with Champagne-Citrus Vinaigrette, House made Lobster Raviolis in a Lobster Consommé with Fresh Poached Seafood and Vegetables, Broiled Lobster with Asparagus Risotto and Saffron Beurre Blanc and Basil-Tomato Oil, Caramel Custard with Carrot Cake Soufflé with Fresh Berries
Arrow Wine & Spirits – Kettering Saturday, September 2, 2006 11-4 pm Arrow Far Hills’s Super Saturday NV Ciprani “Harrys Bar Bellinis� 2003 Rosso Piceno Piediprato 2004 Rosso Piceno 2003 Chateau Beaulieu “Comtes de Taste� NV “Pink� 2005 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Rivola 2005 Luzon Verde 2003 Stoller Pinot Noir 2002 Ascent 2004 Terre Rouge “Enigma� 2002 Terre Rouge “Tete-a-Tete� 2005 Woop Woop Verdelho 2004 Travis Chardonnay “Unfiltered� 2005 Mollydooker “Two Left Feet� 2005 Mollydooker “The Boxer� 2004 Mitolo G.A.M. 2003 Niponzzano “Riserva�
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM)
DLM OakwoodFriday, September 1, 2006 5-8pm Frogs Leap Sauvignon Blank 2005 Paringa Sparkling Shiraz 2004 Sebastiani Pinot Noir 2005 Hess Collection Mountain Cuvee Red 2002 Tyrus Evan Syrah 2003 Brown Bag!
Saturday, September 2, 2006 1-6pm Jubilee Hugel Gewurztraminer 2003 Hanzell Chardonnay 2001 Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir 2004 Montes Cabernet/Carmenere 2004 Spellbound Petite Sirah 2005 Mauro Molino Barolo 2000 Ribas de Cabrera 2000 Bonus Bottles!
Beers: Boulder Beer GABF 25t6 Rogue Uberfest Pilsner
DLM Washington Square Thursday, Aug 31, 2006 5-8pm ’05 Tenimenti San Paolo Frascati ’04 River’s Edge Pinot Noir ’03 La Casina Girasole ’02 Onix Priorat ’01 La Bastide Blanche Bandal Rouge Mystery Wine!
Saturday, September 2, 2006 12-5pm Fifi’s Cajun Fest ’04 Domaine Thibert-Parisse Pouilly-Fuisse ’04 Folie a Deux Menage a Trois Red ’04 Hope Estate “The Ripper� Shiraz ’04 Two Brothers “Big Tattoo� Red ’01 Clos de L’Oratoire Chateauneuf du Pape Mystery Wine! Beers: Abita Amber Abita Turbodog Abita Purple Haze Abita Restoration Abita Anniversary
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, September 1, 2006 3-7pm 03 Domaine Serene Chardonnay 05 El Chaparrel Old Vine Grenache 03 Alto Moncayo Veraton 98 Poggione Brunello
Saturday, September 2, 2006 12-5pm 04 Shafer Chardonnay 04 Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc 03 Pecota “Steven Andre” Merlot 02 Darioush Cabernet
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday – Thursday 11:30 – 7 pm Friday and Saturday 11:30 – 8 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Vinum Cellars 2005 CNW Chenin Blanc Karly 2005 Sauvignon Blanc River Road 2004 Chardonnay First Drop 2005 First Love Red Arcadian 2002 Le Genisse Syrah Rupert & Rothschild 2003 Classique
Market Wine Imports 2nd Street Public Market Saturday 10-2 PM This weekend’s selection will be employee favorites.
B. R. Scotese Wednesday, August 23, 2006 4:30 pm Scotese’s will tasting 2005 Spanish wines! The restaurant is no smoking on Wednesdays!
DiSalvo’s Deli and Italian Store Wine Tasting – every third Wednesday of the month in conjunction with their Meal of the Month! www.disalvosdeli.com. The Deli’s Feature Wines: Ecco Domani Merlot, Chianti, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese
Arrow Centerville 615 Lyons Rd Saturday, September 2, 2006 11am-5pm Cusumano Inzolia 2004 Kiwi Elements Pinot Noir 2004 Toad Hollow McDowell Vineyard Merlot Reserve 2003 Rosenblum Eagle Point Zinfandel 2004 Almondo Nebbiolo 2001 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du- Pape 2003
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069. 513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday & Saturday, September 1st & 2nd ~ Wines That Work!
Trader Joe’s - Town & Country Shopping Center, Kettering Black Mountain “Gravel Bar” Chardonnay (2004): California, Old Moon Zinfandel (2003): California, Covey Run Syrah (2003): AVA Columbia Valley, Washington
L’Auberge Tuesday, September 5, 2006 7pm No tasting September 5! Rosenblum wines will be tasted September 12! These are organized, seated tastings costing $20. There is a 20% discount if you choose to stay for dinner. Call 299-5536 for reservations.
Kinkead Ridge Winery in Ripley at 904 Hamburg Street, (937) 392-6077. Labor Day weekend, 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.
 RELEASE OF THE OUTSTANDING 2004 REDS,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. No restrooms at the vineyard.
The Taste of the Miami Valley will be held at Riverscape Metropark in downtown Dayton Sept 15th and 16th. The evening of Friday the 15th is a special happening. A “Take A Sip for Scholarship” wine tasting will be held from 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm. Proceeds go toward scholarships for students studying the culinary arts. Tables for 10 are for sale for $250. That’s only $25 per person. Participants get unlimited wine tasting from 5-8 and each table gets $75 in food tickets. Get a table and find 9 friends to split it with you. Tables must be paid for in advance with either check or credit card. Call Amy Zahora at the Miami Valley Restaurant Association to buy your table (937) 461-6872. www.themvra.org
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