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Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Rhone, Italian varietals in Ohio? Who knew? One NYC psychiatrist, that’s who
First, thank you for the excellent suggestions and advice for Cathy and Elizabeth yesterday, and as Cathy says in a comment — keep ‘em coming! But as always, we move on…
I’m working on a more in-depth piece on this topic and will share the link when it’s available, but Hermes Vineyards in Sandusky is too fascinating to keep secret.
The Ohio winery, with 30 acres of vineyards, is located near Sandusky, Ohio, not far from my old stomping grounds of Fremont, where I worked my first newspaper job out of college. I sure didn’t recognize the region as a hotbed for growing vinifera grapes from the Rhone region of France and from Italy, but that’s exactly what Hermes proprietor Dr. David Kraus is doing.
Kraus is a Sandusky native, but his “day job” has taken him to New York City, where he is a psychiatrist with a private practice in Manhattan. But he flies back to Sandusky frequently to keep an eye on his vineyards and winery. The land he’s cultivating for wine grapes has been in his family for more then 150 years. Kraus will tell you — and will produce data to back it up — that the microclimate in and around Sandusky is very conducive to growing wine grapes, especially those of Rhone and Italian varieties.
Now, fortunes have been lost on attempting to grow these European grapes in the wrong parts of Ohio, where the frigid winters kill the more sensitive vinifera vines. Yet, Sandusky — at one time the wine-grape-growing capital of the U.S. — benefits from the moderating influence of the Great Lakes, which provides an extended growing season.
Kraus has planted two dozen grape varieties, including Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Viognier, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon — you get the idea.
Of course, the proof is in the glass. And Hermes delivers. Pour some of these wines “blind” for wine enthusiasts, and they’ll never guess the wines came from Ohio. I did just that last Friday at Jay’s Kitchen Door, where the 2006 Hermes Viognier was quite a favorite of the tasters, and the 2006 Hermes Syrah converted a few folks as well. Both wines cost about $15.
Add Hermes to the success that Kinkead Ridge has enjoyed with vinifera grapes down in Ripley, and that many other Ohio wineries are enjoying as well, and, well, I’ll repeat what I wrote after the Cincinnati International Wine Festival: If Ohio wines were a stock, I’d be buying.
If you’re in the neighborhood of Sandusky this summer (Cedar Point, perhaps?), stop in at Hermes’ tasting room. Or make a special trip and visit some of the neighboring wineries too.
There is fun and exciting stuff happening in our own backyard. And a visit sure is cheaper than a trip to the Rhone or Italy….
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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