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Cafe Istanbul

The point of driving more than an hour for dinner is to eat something not available at home. Cafe Istanbul, a white-tablecloth restaurant on one of Easton's side streets, provides it. Turkish rugs line the walls and arches open into individual dining spaces. The Middle Eastern menu is extensive, but the waiters are knowledgeable and helpful.

You could make a meal of the appetizers. Start with silken hummus served with crusty, highly textured bread that's made in house. Ask for more bread to go with a Ezme, a spicy spread of tomatoes, onion, and olive oil. And be sure to order the appetizer calamari. The little rings, barely dusted with cornflour, are the most ethereal I have ever had. Greaselessly fried, they're served with a light but garlicky taratora dipping sauce.

Imam Bayildi, a traditional dish, won a convert of one companion who is not a fan of eggplant. Here it is satiny, topped with pine nuts and red peppers and slices of garlic.

With 35 entree choices, 20 of them variations on kebabs, making a choice can be difficult. If I lived in Columbus, I would be tempted to start at the top and work my way down in repeated visits.

Desserts are as familiar of baklava, similar to the Greek version, a better option to the unusual Kazan Dibi, a rather gelatinous milk custard sprinkled with cinnamon. The wine list even includes credible Turkish wines, including a crisp Cankaya white.

Dinner entrees range from $9.95 to $17.95 for a combination platter. Information: (614) 473-9144.