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THE WINDS CAFE

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By Ann Heller

Restaurant Critic

At The Winds Cafe in Yellow Springs, the menu changes monthly, but featured small plates have a shelf life of three months. The means the current offerings will last through June.

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The small plate of Pork Meatballs bridges the seasons. Bedded on a tomatillo salsa that packs a chipotle punch, the meatballs are a little too large to wrap in the tortillas without saucing yourself. Try eating the meatballs with a fork and dipping the tortillas in the addictive sauce. Since there are five fat meatballs on the plate, adding one of the Winds super salads can make it a meal.

New on the salad lineup is a pairing of local spinach with bits of hot-smoked salmon, and it is the salmon that makes this salad, though a rather parsimonious sprinkling of shaved fennel adds interest. The mustard vinaigrette is notably sweet. Half portions are available, so try it once. You will probably go back to the restaurant's Slow Boat to Sicily salad of romaine hearts with lemon Gorgonzola dressing and crispy fried onion strands.

Another small plate, a retro dish of grilled salmon on squid ink pasta, had mental appeal. Though the salmon was perfectly cooked, the pasta was overcooked and gummy. The rich lemon cream sauce couldn't save the dish.

The Winds is known for its wine, but pairing wine with chipotle heat and salads is a challenge. Always ask your server. Here they are knowledgeable and have tasted the featured wines with the foods. Their recommendations are sound.

Updated 5.19.2006

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