D.L. Stewart: Let’s raise our voices against raised voices!

The Old Fisherman’s Grotto is a popular seafood restaurant in Monterey, Calif. It’s the kind of place where tourists stop in for a $32 bowl of bouillabaisse or a $49 lobster dinner. When they arrive, they will see a red sign out front that reiterates a policy the restaurant’s owner says has been in effect for the past two years:

— NO STROLLERS

— NO HIGH CHAIRS

— NO BOOSTER CHAIRS

Beneath those notices is one more directive: “Children crying or making loud noises are a distraction to other diners, and as such are not allowed in the dining room.”

The sign has served up a smorgasbord of Internet controversy.

“I think it’s not fair,” one post insisted, “because I think little kids deserve to go in there.”

“I think it’s ridiculous,” another wrote. “I think kids need to know how to behave in restaurants and if you don’t take them to them, they don’t know how to behave and they shouldn’t be kept hidden away, so I think it’s ridiculous, kids should be allowed in restaurants.”

In spite of reactions like those, The Old Fisherman’s Grotto’s owner says he’s standing by his policy. If people are upset by it, he reasons, they’re always free to get their seafood elsewhere at restaurants that welcome children who cry or make loud noises.

“Well let’s put it this way,” Chris Shake says, “I haven’t had a down year in over 20 years, our business continues to grow.”

I understand his thinking. What I don’t understand is the controversy part.

There are, apparently, people who love to dine to the accompaniment of screeching, shrieking, whining children. People who feel that making customers check their screaming children at the door is ridiculous.

But not fair and ridiculous? I’ll tell you what’s not fair and ridiculous.

What’s not fair is paying $32 for a bowl of bouillabaisse with a side dish of uncontrolled children.

What’s ridiculous is parents who are too lazy, too inconsiderate and/or too self-centered to teach their children phrases such as, “This is a nice restaurant and we have to use our inside voices here.” Or, as I used to explain to my kids, “shut the hell up.” (Of course that was back in the day when you could say things like that to your kids without expecting to get a visit from Children’s Services.)

I’m all in favor of kids having the experience of dining out. But if you think it’s OK for your little screamers to cry and make loud noises at a restaurant, please take them to one that has a drive-through window.

Preferably with your car windows rolled up.

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