Giuliano, an Anticoli Tavern
WHERE: 67 S. Main St., Miamisburg
WHEN: Dinner daily, lunch and dinner on Sundays
MORE INFO: www.giulianotavern.com or (937) 859-3000
Miami Valley diners have been able to eat at a restaurant owned by the Anticoli family for eight decades now, making the Anticolis the area’s longest-established, continually operating restaurant family.
Now they have a new choice — and it’s one well worth exploring.
Leo Anticoli, the patriarch of the family, and his son, Chris, have opened “Giuliano, an Anticoli Tavern” after considerable renovation to the former Chimney’s Inn at 67 S. Main St. in downtown Miamisburg.
Anticoli’s, later Caffe Anticoli, had been in business in three different locations: from 1931 to 1951, on East Fifth Street in the St. Anne’s Hill District of Dayton; 1951 to 2000 on Salem Avenue in north Dayton; and from 2000 to 2010 at 8268 N. Main St. in Clayton. Caffe Anticoli closed in August 2010 after the restaurant owners and their landlord failed to reach agreement on a new lease.
Michael Anticoli — Leo’s son and Chris’ brother — operates La Piazza in Troy, as well as La Piazza New Bremen, and Leo’s daughter Peggy Anticoli Hastreiter is involved in her brother’s New Bremen restaurant, Leo Anticoli said.
The “Giuliano” name of the newest Anticoli restaurant refers to the family’s Italian hometown, where members of Anticoli’s extended family still live.
Some of the old Anticoli’s favorites survived the trip south to the new Giuliano: lasagna “A La Romano,” baked ziti with chicken and three cheeses, eggplant parmigiano and veal Marsala appear on the new restaurant’s menu.
We found several highlights. The bruschetta margherita appetizer ($6.95) is a distinctive take on this classic Italian dish, consisting of a single large piece of toasted, rustic bread topped with chopped fresh Roma tomatoes that have been bathed in a garlicky olive oil and dusted with fresh basil. The tomatoes are ripe, the garlic jolt is welcome, and the dish is satisfying.
Giuliano’s pizzas are thin-crusted and well-made. Try the Fresco Grande ($15.95), with three cheeses (mozzarella, provolone and Romano), Marzano-style tomatoes, pepperoni, excellent Italian sausage, olives, onions, mushrooms and basil. Salads are fresh and appropriately sized, and the house creamy garlic is the best dressing choice.
Among the Italian entrees, the chicken Picatta ($15.95) was a standout, with chicken breasts enhanced by a tangy sauce of lemon juice, butter, wine, garlic, fresh mushrooms and minced parsley, served over linguine. On our visit, it was a better choice than the chicken Giuliano, in which a herb-flecked half-chicken is served over pasta. The dark meat was flavorful, but the chicken breast portion was dry.
Tilapia Limone ($15.95) was a surprise hit. Tilapia is often an afterthought at Italian (and other) restaurants, but it’s prepared well here, in a lemony, buttery sauce. Order the side of pasta (included) with just a splash of oil or butter, then combine it with the tilapia and its sauce.
The wine list contains some interesting Italian bottles, and while the by-the-glass list is limited, the pours are among the most generous in town.
The spacious restaurant seats about 140, but if the weather is cooperating, check out Giuliano’s new patio, which seats 40.
After 80 years, the Anticolis have learned a thing or two about running restaurants — and about serving satisfying meals, too.
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