As the dough expands, the raisins separate. To any given raisin, everything seems to be moving away. It considers itself the center. Now I could see the point: Raisins are self-centered.
I was inspired to knead a batch of buns, hoping the analogy would hold if I switched to currants. In the oven, the buns expanded, the currants moved apart. I can’t say if any considered themselves the center of the universe. I ate them. Now they’re the center of my universe.
Currant buns
Prep: 45 minutes
Wait: 2 hours (plus overnight soak)
Bake: 15 minutes
Makes: 20 buns
1/4 cup dried currants, soaked overnight in rum, orange juice or both to cover
2 1/4 tsp. (1 envelope) active dry yeast
1/4 cup sugar
3 Tbsp. warm water
1 cup warm whole milk
1 egg
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, melted
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. each: ground nutmeg, ground ginger
About 3 1/2 cups flour
Glaze, see recipe follows
Pat: Drain currants; pat dry with paper towels.
Proof: In a small bowl, whisk yeast and a pinch of sugar into the warm water. Let rest until creamy, about 5 minutes.
Mix: In a large bowl, mix together currants, milk, egg, remaining sugar, 6 tablespoons butter, salt and spices. Stir in yeast mixture. Stir in enough of the flour to form a sticky dough.
Knead: Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead, dusting with flour as needed, to form a smooth, soft dough, about 4 minutes.
Rest: Brush a large bowl with some of the remaining butter. Settle in dough ball, turning to coat with butter. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let rest until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down dough to deflate.
Shape: Cut dough into 20 portions. Shape each into a ball, pulling the tops smooth and tucking any raggedly bits under. Set balls on 2 buttered baking sheets.
Rest: Cover buns with plastic wrap. Let rest until puffy, about 30 minutes. Brush tops with butter.
Bake: Slide into a 400-degree oven; bake until golden, 13-15 minutes. Brush with glaze, twice. Enjoy warm.
Glaze: Heat 2 tablespoons milk and 3 tablespoons sugar to a boil. Boil 1 minute. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and a pinch of nutmeg.
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