Before the meal started it was easy to see the club wanted to give its member a class experience. Rebecka Deike, the senior winemaker at Ferrari-Carano Vineyard and Winery in Healdsburg, CA attended to discuss the wines. A representative from the distributor and supplier also attended and they all mingled with anyone who wanted. The wines were also available for sale, and you can see the prices in parentheses.
Welcome: Cheese and fruit display with pinot grigio ($19)
This was different. As diners came in, staff handed each a glass of pinot grigio, which had a heavier mouth feel with pear and citrus. The fruit, cheese and vegetables weren’t plated but instead served buffet style. I liked that because I could control how much I put on my plate, which was prescient.
First course: Salad with falafel, cucumber, red onion, tomato, feta and tahini dressing paired with a fume blanc ($18)
I don’t have many daunting salads, but this was one, and I mean that in the best way possible. The two large, dense and tasty pieces of falafel, dipped in a little dressing, could have been a first course on its own. Like red onion and feta because the onion’s bite and the feta’s tang complement each other well. If I had a small piece of chicken, it would have been enough for dinner. The light fume blanc had pineapple, mango and grapefruit and was a nice contrast to the falafel.
But there was more.
Second course: Chicken cacciatore served on a bed of broccoli cheese mashed potatoes, paired with a Siena red blend ($28)
There were a lot of people at this dinner. I should have counted, but there were at least 25 in our immediate vicinity with (possibly) twice as many in the large room. I mention that because when I saw cacciatore I wondered what type of chicken would be on the plate. Many recipes call for chicken thighs since they don’t easily dry out and flavor the sauce. This dish came with boneless chicken breast that can easily become tough. Not here. The juicy chicken was tasty, but the light red sauce and the creamy potatoes were the star. The light red blend contained sangiovese grapes and hints of cherry.
The meal was good, but I stopped myself when I was halfway through because there was so much more.
Third course: Fillet mignon with blue cheese and bacon served with asparagus paired with a vineyard select cabernet reserve ($58)
The filet was nicely cooked with the right amount of pink, and the blue cheese provided a sharp contrast. I gave the asparagus to my wife because it’s one of the few foods I dislike. I’m not anti-vegetable, just anti-asparagus. But after those two bites, I asked for a to go box. I used the three ounces of meat (I weighed it when I got home) to make a killer cheesesteak the next day. The big and rich cabernet had nice dark fruit (blackberry/blueberry), a long finish, and was my favorite wine of the night.
Fourth course: Basque cheesecake with berry compote paired with merlot ($30)
Now we get to the crux of the matter. This is the reason I was so judicious with the other courses. Dessert is my favorite food, and cheesecake the best of them all. This version was (a little too) firm on the outside but creamy on the interior. It didn’t last long on my plate. I got a lot of plum and cherry out of the medium-bodied merlot, and while it was good, It reminded me why I like bourbon with a dessert with fruit. A wine with pronounced fruit and a dessert with the same can compete with each other.
When I get an invite to a Walnut Grove wine dinner, I do my best to go. It’s always a good meal with well-paired wines and excellent service. The kitchen has mastered the art of cooking for a crowd, which isn’t easy. (I know. I’ve done it in a restaurant).
Get an invite if you can. You won’t be sorry.
Have you been to a Walnut Country Club wine dinner? Let me know what you think.
Ray Marcano’s Fine Wine and Dine column explores the best wine and dining options in the Dayton region. He can be reached at winedineddn@gmail.com.
THE REVIEW
5 = outstanding, 4 = above average, 3= average, 2 = poor, 1 = terrible
What: Walnut Grove County Club 5050 Linden Ave., Dayton
Welcome: 4 out of 5. I liked the setup.
Salad: 4 out of 5. The falafel was very good.
Chicken: 4 out of 5. Good cacciatore, moist chicken.
Filet: 4 out of 5. Cooked to the right temperature.
Dessert: 4.5 out of 5. Cheesecake? Yes please.
Service: 5 out of 5. Attentive and accommodating.
About the Author
