You may be familiar with many of the Spanish whites; we all know chardonnay, which Spain also does well, and we’ve all sipped our share of albarino. But get acquainted with other Spanish grapes such as godello, xarel-lo and verdejo (verdelho in Portuguese). Those three have the green apple, citrus and mineral combo that’s something of a mark of Spanish whites. And do not forget sparkling Spanish wines such as cava — they’re not inexpensive but are as layered as fine Champagne.
Portuguese white wine grapes are off-the-wall wacky, but only because we do not meet them commonly.
If I had to generalize overall, Portuguese whites taste like riper versions of Spanish whites, more apple compote (baked apple or applesauce) than a snapped bite of Honeycrisp. The deeper, somewhat “darker” flavors are a signal for a different set of foods, such as grilled pork or vegetables, barbecued chicken or room-temp finger foods.
The Spaniards can kick off the night and perhaps begin the meal; the Portuguese can take you through it.
I list the recommended wines below by country and price; if the grape name is not part of the wine’s name, I also mark grape names, just so you can begin nosing your faves.
SPAIN
2012 Vinas del Vero Chardonnay, Somontano, Spain: Think Macon blanc, half price. $10
2012 Bodegas Robalino Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain: More texture than many; pop of minerals at the end. $13
2012 Vina Reboreda White, Ribeiro, Spain: Chill, less aroma than Argentine torrontes; lean and green; treixadura and torrontes. $13
2012 Bodegas Garcu Grande Verdejo “12 Linajes,” Rueda, Spain: Citrusy but also melon-y, with long, drying finish. $14
2013 Raimat Xarel-lo/Chardonnay “Castell de Raimat,” Costers de Segre, Spain: Blends lemony xarel-lo with white peachlike chardonnay; especially aromatic. $15
2012 Vina Somoza Godello “Sobre Lias,” Valdeorras, Spain: “Sobre lias” means lees contact, texture and creaminess, all that swaddling white peach and apple. $20
2012 Bodegas Castro Martin Albarino “Sobre Lias,” Rias Baixas, Spain: Lime-y and briny, so it says, “Find me shellfish or oysters, por favor.” $24
2012 Terras Gauda White “O Rosal,” Rias Baixas, Spain: Great blend for many vintages, a combo of sea breeze, melon and stone fruit; plump texture; albarino, loureiro, caino blanco. $20
2007 Cordoniu Xarel-lo Gran Reserva “Finca la Nasa,” Catalonia, Spain: Bottle age serves it well, with “warm,” toasty aromas and flavors framed by taut acidity. $45
PORTUGAL
2012 Herdade do Esporao Verdelho “V,” Alentejo, Portugal: Like California sauvignon blanc but with more melon and stone fruit; minerals at finish. $12
2012 Quinta do Passadouro Branco “Passa,” Douro, Portugal: Scents and savors of very ripe melon, as if lemon squeezed on it, ending on white chalk note; rabigato and voisinho. $15
2009 Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setubal, Bacalhoa, Portugal: Do not forget the globe’s best value in sweet white wine, this muscat from near Lisbon; orange marmalade, nuts, yums. $16-$20
2012 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho “Contacto,” Vinho Verde, Portugal: Like great chenin blanc, ripe pear, with steely edge, minerals and spice; super rich in layers. $17
2012 Luis Pato Espumante “Maria Gomes,” Bairrada, Portugal: Have this sparkling wine for the grape name alone, maria gomes, made by one of Portugal’s most talented, coolest winemakers. $17
2012 Vadio White, Bairrada, Portugal: A combo of nectarine and white pepper; terrific smoothness; cerceal and bical. $20
2012 Quinta do Foz de Arouce Branco, Beira Atlantico, Portugal: Like a fjord, deep but focused, linear; fermented and aged in wood, but just long enough to add spice and layers; cerceal (arinto). $25-$35
2012 Wine & Soul Branco “Guru,” Douro, Portugal: Jump over the hipster name for a killer white aged in oak and made of no grape you’ve had before; like a warmer-site premier cru white Burgundy, really; voisinho, rabigato, codega and gouveio. $35-$45
If your wine store does not carry these wines, ask for one similar in style and price.
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