Lawn prep before winter; know and you’ll grow

Do some tasks this fall, not next spring.A guide to feeding, aeration and mulching.


YOUR LINK TO THE LOCAL EXPERTS

The Saturday Life section connects you to practical know-how from local people who know.

Your verdant lawn is your pride and joy during the warmer months, so be sure to take a few minutes out of your fall fun to ensure that it comes through the winter in top shape.

We talked to two local experts for tips on how to winterize your lawn.

Give it some air

An essential part of successful lawn care, aeration is an important step in prepping your lawn for its long winter’s nap. Also known as core cultivation, the process can be done “up until the ground freezes,” advised Mark Grunkemeyer of Buckeye EcoCare in Centerville.

“Before you do anything else, you need to do aeration,” said Freddy Rodriquez, owner of Freddy’s Commercial Lawn Care in Hamilton.

Aeration is the process of removing small cores of soil from the lawn. It’s extremely beneficial. Grunkemeyer said, “The process reduces compaction, provides oxygen to plant roots and provides a lodging place for grass seed.”

Rodriquez suggested putting down grass seed after aerating.

Mulch and mow

Looking forward to putting that mower to bed? There’s still a little bit of mowing ahead of us. “We have at least two or three more weeks of mowing,” said Rodriquez.

Grunkemeyer advised lowering the mowing height on your lawn mower throughout the fall, from Sept. 1 through Nov. 1. You should gradually go from a height of 3.5 inches to 2 inches.

If you’re worried that you’ve missed the boat on that one this year, don’t overcompensate. Keep in mind, “this cannot be done all at once. I usually tell people one “notch” or setting every three to four weeks beginning Sept. 1,” said Grunkemeyer.

Those who are weary of raking and bagging, take note: it’s actually good for the grass to let the clippings lie. Mulching “as many leaves as possible” is also a good habit, said Grunkemeyer. “Studies have proven that clippings contain valuable nutrients, and we do not need leaves from trees filling our landfills.”

The off-season is also a good time to get your mower serviced, from engine repair to blade sharpening.

Feed me

What do bears, raccoons and your lawn have in common? They store up food for hibernation. Unlike animals, your lawn has a little trouble going out and hunting for food. It’s up to you to keep it fed during the fall months.

Grunkemeyer suggested, “Feed with a heavy rate of nitrogen after top growth has slowed, usually after the first heavy frost … this stored food is then used in the spring for early spring green up.”

After you’ve seeded and aerated, Rodriquez recommended that you “wait a couple weeks, then put down some fertilizer called ‘winterizing.’ ” Winterizing fertilizer blends are widely available. Be sure to check the label to see what nutrients the fertilizer contains.

Feed your lawn now, and “next year, you’ll see the results,” Rodriquez said. “The grass will look a lot greener; it will start growing evenly. The fertilizer will protect it from the winter.”

Weeds, begone

Insect pests aren’t generally a concern right now, but “late fall is the best time of year for broadleaf weed control, not spring,” said Grunkemeyer. Some common broadleaf weeds are dandelions and white clover, which are perennials and come back yearly unless proper steps are taken to eliminate them.

Spring is a popular time to try ridding your lawn of these unsightly visitors, but experts recommend you take care of it now. Just like grass, weeds store nutrients during the colder months and bring them upward during the spring. However, “plants are moving everything downward right now,” said Grunkemeyer.

The best time to spray for broadleaf weeds is generally after your last mowing and fertilizing treatments are finished and temperatures are in the 40s and 50s.

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