A crisp, cleansing wine is what you’ll want to quaff with this salmon and rice dish dressed with palate-coating yogurt and mayonnaise sauce. Look to France, with wines from the Loire, Beaujolais and Languedoc.
Make this: Quick Kedgeree with Yogurt Sauce
Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 small yellow onion, finely diced; cook, stirring, until softened. Stir in 6 cups cooked rice; cook, 2 minutes. Add 14 ounces cooked salmon, skin removed, flaked; 2 cups frozen peas; 1/3 cup chicken broth; 3/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Cover; heat through over medium, 5-10 minutes. Stir in 1/4 cup each, chopped, cilantro and parsley. For the sauce, blend 1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt, 1 tablespoon each mayonnaise and lemon juice, and 1 clove garlic, minced. Serve over kedgeree. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Judy Hevrdejs
Pairings by sommelier Nate Redner, of Oyster Bah, as told to Michael Austin:
2015 Louis Metaireau Sur Lie Grand Mouton, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Loire Valley, France: Muscadet is incredibly versatile with most seafood, especially richer fish like salmon. Made from the grape variety melon de Bourgogne, this muscadet displays notes of under-ripe orchard fruit (apple/pear/quince) and, due to the proximity to the ocean, carries a touch of salinity as well. The wine’s tart acidity will bring our the lemon in the yogurt sauce.
2014 Guy Breton Vieilles Vignes Morgon, Beaujolais, France: Morgon Beaujolais leans to the masculine side of gamay, and this one’s fine tannins will help cut through the fatty salmon and rich yogurt sauce. Notes of Chinese five spice in the wine will complement the mild spice profile of the dish too. Chill the wine before serving to accentuate the tart cranberry, pomegranate and cherry, and to bring out a touch more tannin.
2016 Domaine de Fontsainte Gris de Gris, Corbieres, Languedoc-Roussillon France: Vin gris is rosé’s cool cousin, and this one is a blend of grenache gris, grenache noir, carignan, syrah and mourvedre, with lots of ripe citrus and notes of cantaloupe. The wine’s loads of ripe fruit and acidity and just a bit of tannin will help counter the richness and weight of the dish’s rice, fatty fish and yogurt.