Accessing junk in your trunk should be an easy fix

Dear Car Talk: I have a 2011 Cadillac CTS, and my trunk will not open with the remote button inside the car or with the key fob. When I use the buttons, I can hear it clicking at the latch.

Can you tell me what’s wrong? Thanks. — Rick

Rick: Well, we can approach this problem using the process of elimination, Rick. How’d you like to eliminate this CTS and buy a newer car?

No, I’m kidding. This is fixable. Because you can hear clicking when you use the key fob (or the remote trunk release inside the car), we know that there’s power getting to the latch. It’s trying to do its job. That’s good.

The way these things work is that the latch hooks and unhooks itself around a stationary “striker.” Either the latch or the striker is attached to the trunk lid, and its mate is attached to the body of the car, just inside the trunk opening.

When you hit the trunk-open button on your key fob, it signals the latch to open and release itself from the striker. So, one of two things is happening. Either the latch is not opening fully enough, or the latch and striker are out of alignment.

The best place to take this is a body shop, Rick. They screw up the installation of trunk lids and lift gates all the time, so they’re really good at fixing these problems.

If you ask a body mechanic there to look at it for you, he can activate the latch with your key fob while the trunk lid is open. And he can watch it and see if it’s opening fully.

If it’s not, it may be a simple matter of lubricating it. If the latch is opening fully, then the way the two parts meet may be out of alignment. So, either the trunk lid itself or one of the two parts needs to be adjusted.

If the body shop guy can’t see how it’s misaligned from the outside, he can always climb in through the back seats with a flashlight and a meatball sub and watch how the trunk closes and see how the two parts are lining up.

Either way, this shouldn’t be hard to fix, Rick. And I’m confident that in short order, you’ll be able to get to your bowling shoes again.

Dear Car Talk: You had a reader write in recently about a 2002 Saturn with air only coming from the defroster vents.

I had a 2000 Chevy Astro with the same problem. It started right after the dealer serviced it. The dealer told me it could cost $1,000 or more to take the dash apart. A year later, I took the car to an independent repair shop for regular service and asked about the air problem. The mechanic said it was probably a disconnected vacuum line. It was. He didn’t charge me to fix it. Could that be the Saturn’s problem, too? — Dean

Dean: I don’t think so. Fortunately, it’s been a long time since I’ve worked on a 2002 Saturn ventilation system, so the memories — and the trauma — have faded.

But I don’t think that particular car used vacuum motors for its blend doors. While some cars use vacuum motors to control their duct flaps, I believe the 2002 Saturn used a servo, stepping motor.

So, a disconnected vacuum line shouldn’t have affected the vent system on that car. It could have caused other problems, though, like making the car idle poorly. And if someone reported to me that their ventilation doors were behaving strangely, and their car was idling poorly, I would put “vacuum leak” on the list of things to check for.

You were fortunate, Dean. The guy with the Saturn — Tom — probably got the same $1,000 “take the dashboard apart” estimate, and in his case, some poor mechanic had to spend a full day, upside down, with his head in the footwell and 20-year-old crud falling into his eyes.

But it was good thinking, Dean. You’re not wrong in your logic. You just haven’t owned a 2002 Saturn. I’m sure Tom would be happy to remedy that for you if you’re interested.

Got a question about cars? Write to Ray in care of King Features, 628 Virginia Drive, Orlando, FL 32803, or email by visiting the Car Talk website at www.cartalk.com.

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