This dish combines briny seafood with rich cheese and the natural acidity of tomatoes. Here are three bottles — a sparkling wine from Spain, and one white each from Italy and France — that have the liveliness and agility to bring together such contrasting elements.
SPAGHETTI WITH SHRIMP, FETA AND TOMATOES
Cook 6 ounces spaghetti in a pot of well-salted boiling water until al dente, about 10 minutes; drain. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium. Add 3 cloves garlic, minced; cook until golden, about 1 minute. Add 3/4 pound peeled, deveined shrimp; cook until shrimp begin to turn pink, about 2 minutes. Stir in 1 can (14 1/2 ounces) peeled, diced tomatoes, drained; cook 2 minutes. Toss with pasta. Pour into a buttered 2-quart casserole; sprinkle with 2 ounces crumbled feta. Bake at 400 degrees until sauce is bubbly and feta melts slightly, about 10 minutes. Makes: 2 servings
Recipe by Robin Mather.
Pairings by sommelier Rachael Lowe of Spiaggia, as told to Michael Austin:
Mascaro Pure Brut Nature Reserve Cava, Catalonia, Spain: Made of parellada and macabeo grapes, this nonvintage wine has no additional sugars and offers aromas of green apple, almond skin, lime zest, bright acidity and fine bubbles. The bubbles and acidity will cut through the richness of the feta while also mirroring the natural acidity of the tomato.
2012 Primosic Riserva Ribolla Gialla, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy: This wine, aged for 24 months in small barrels and then a year longer in the bottle, exudes notes of golden apricot, chamomile, tarragon and a hint of smoke. The wine's round texture will complement the shrimp, and its herbal components will add nice depth to the dish.
2016 Domaine de La Louvetrie Amphibolite, Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Pays Nantais, France: Composed of the melon de Bourgogne grape variety, this wine has bright acidity and purity, with aromas of lemon peel, tangerine oil and rosemary. An intense minerality with an almost briny touch makes for a cleansing finish. The wine's structure is a perfect complement to seafood and will cut the richness of the feta.
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