Robert Mondavi the Man

The top selection this week in the Wine Talk reviews is the 50th anniversary wine from Robert Mondavi, probably the most renowned winery in California's Napa Valley.

The 50th anniversary is an important milestone to be sure, but longevity alone is not what makes the occasion significant. Many among the current generation of California wine enthusiasts weren't born yet when Robert Mondavi parted ways with the family winery, Charles Krug, and founded his namesake winery in 1966.

It was a time when California wine was regarded with suspicion and seldom found on the best restaurant wine lists of the day. Mondavi made it his mission in life to bring California wine to the best tables in the land.

Toward that end, he hit the road, zigzagging across America with his first cabernet sauvignons. His favorite tactic was the head-to-head tasting during which Mondavi would sit down in a top-notch restaurant with a major influencer and challenge that person to order any wine he or she desired off the wine list.

They would then taste the two wines side by side. More often than not the other wine was a famous French red, either a Bordeaux or Burgundy. The objective wasn't necessarily to "win" the tasting as much as it was to prove the Mondavi cabernet belonged in such refined company. Rest assured, however, Mondavi won its share of the tastings.

Robert, never the winemaker, made his mark as the most dogged salesman in the history of California wine. More than anyone before or since, he put California wine on the map and made it fashionable in the toniest restaurants and wine shops.

Thus, this 50th anniversary of the Mondavi winery is also the 50th anniversary of the modern era of California wine.

Best Value

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

Edna Valley 2014 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($15) -- Sometimes the less expensive chardonnay is the most enjoyable. That's because they often aren't overdone. This Central Coast bottling from Edna Valley is beautifully balanced, exhibits notes of lemon oil and spice, and a creamy texture that makes for easy sipping. Rating: 88.

Tasting Notes

Robert Mondavi 2013 'Maestro,' Napa Valley ($50) -- The Robert Mondavi Winery's 50th anniversary wine is a fitting tribute to the man who did more to establish the Napa Valley's cred than any other. This is an unusual blend for Napa, top-heavy on merlot and cabernet franc in the image of a proper Saint-Emilion from Bordeaux. Showing fresh red and black-fruit aromas and sweet, supple tannins, it has power combined with elegance and the staying power that is so appropriate for a tribute wine. Rating: 97.

Levendi 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Sweetwater,' Napa Valley ($60) -- Fans of bold, bodacious Napa Valley cabernet will love the Sweetwater Cab from Levendi. Sourced from grapes grown in the Atlas Peak district at the southern end of the Napa Valley, this mountain wine is inky dark, with dense layers of black fruits and muscular tannins. Not for the faint of heart. Drinking well now, but will benefit from additional cellaring. Rating: 93.

J Vineyards Cuvee 20, Russian River Valley ($32) -- Cuvee 20 is J's most popular bubbly, and there's a reason for that. It shows inviting floral and lemon zest notes, with a hint of spice. Exceptionally well balanced, with a creamy mouthfeel, it is without doubt one of the best values in domestic sparkling wine today. Rating: 92.

Albatross Ridge 2013 Pinot Noir 'Cuvee Vivienne,' Carmel Valley ($40) -- This Monterey County pinot is not typical of that which routinely produces full-bodied, rich pinot noirs that are in vogue. Cuvee Vivienne is more in the European mold, a model of restraint though certainly not short on flavor. This vintage delivers notes of strawberry and raspberry and shows a leafy backnote that is quite attractive. Rating: 90.

Champ de Reves 2013 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($45) -- This beauty from Mendocino's Anderson Valley shows bright red-fruit aromas and a touch of wood spice. It expresses a subtle floral note on the nose, and on the palate the wine is smooth and supple, with beautifully integrated tannins. Ready to drink now. Rating: 90.