Sewing clothes from scratch

Local experts offer tips for DIY garment basics.


How to go

What: Sewing 101: The Basics

Where: Sew Dayton, 261 Wayne Ave., Dayton

When: One-night classes on March 12, April 9 or May 14 from 6-8 p.m.

FYI: Class is for those brand-new to sewing or who have never had formal instruction.

More info: Go online to www.sewdayton.com, www.facebook.com/sewdayton1 or call (937) 234-7398.

Sewing projects are big on Pinterest lately — accessories, decor and especially clothes. Creating garments is a fun way to get both a unique look and a fun indoor hobby, especially during the chilly months.

Although making clothes from scratch might sound intimidating, our local experts have plenty of tips to get you started.

The right tools

Sewing can be as simple as a needle and thread or as pricey as a thousand-dollar computerized embroidery machine. If you’re just starting out, it’s best to gather a few basic supplies until you’re sure you’ll stick with it.

“You can usually get away with white, black, red and green as starter [thread] colors if you don’t want to break the bank,” said Ayn Wood, a costume designer for several local theater groups including Kettering Children’s Theatre.

She listed a few more basic items: “Sewing scissors, strictly for fabric, craft scissors for paper or nonfabric cutting. Seam rippers, chalk or wax marking pencil for marking fabric. Straight pins, for holding fabric together during cutting and construction, and safety pins for fitting garment-in-process on live humans. An iron and a surface to iron upon. If you are machine sewing, a machine that can do zig-zag as well as straight stitching, and sewing machine needles in various sizes. Measuring tape and a straight edge ruler.”

Pick a project

Although you may have an amazing design in mind a la “Project Runway,” it’s best to start out by creating clothing from a pattern. Patterns come with step-by-step instructions and oftentimes include a short glossary of sewing terminology.

“A great tip for pattern selection is the least amount of pieces for your first few projects,” said Tracy McElfresh and Jesy Anderson via e-mail. McElfresh and Anderson are co-owners of Sew Dayton in the Oregon District. “Make sure to measure yourself correctly and choose the correct pattern size — not the size you wear from a department store; they are different.”

Patterns are generally very detailed and every bit of info counts. “In terms of reading a pattern, read the pattern!” Wood said. “Read the whole thing through even if you have no idea what they are talking about. … It’s less daunting to cut into the actual fabric when you’ve already mentally completed the garment. There are guides for laying the fabric out, for marking and for cutting. Take advantage of them.”

Many companies indicate the difficulty level of the pattern right on the packaging, and there is always a photo or drawing of the finished product to show the pattern’s complexity. Our experts suggested starting with a skirt, kimono-sleeve shirt, vintage-style apron or pajama bottoms.

Pick a fabric

Many, many types, styles and colors of fabric exist, and one of the pleasures of sewing is experimenting with them. Some fabrics are much easier to work with than others, and some are also more appropriate for making clothing.

“The best fabric to learn to sew on is cotton and knit,” said McElfresh and Anderson. “Cotton has friction, will not shift around and is easy to sew. Knits are also easy, contrary to belief, because your exact sizing doesn’t have to be perfect, there is less ironing, and you usually do not have to finish the seams.”

Wood suggested, “When you are choosing a pattern, look at the envelope for the section titled ‘suggested fabrics.’ Try to pick something that asks for a cotton or a muslin or a woven fabric.”

Beginner classes

One of the most important things a beginner should do is sign up for a basic class. Even if you read the pattern thoroughly or watch videos online, nothing beats a live person who can troubleshoot your project with you.

In a class, Anderson and McElfresh said, “You will learn tips, tricks and ways to make sewing less stressful. Save yourself time and frustration by taking a class to get you started on a project, to learn your machine or how to finish something you already started. It’s all about the enjoyment.”

Just like when developing any other skill, sewing takes time, patience and usually some firsthand advice from pros. If you’re interested in making your own clothes, but wary of price, a class at places such as Sew Dayton will often cut down on supply costs. Sewing machines, a major expense for those new to sewing, are generally provided.

When starting out, Wood said, “Do the project from start to finish; give yourself a deadline or set aside a reasonable time frame to move a project forward. See a few smaller projects through to completion, learn from each and have a dream project ready to go.”

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